A few issues with the TGP after the top end re-build

[Addicted2bass]

So I finally put the hood back on the TGP and drove it from my work to my house (~10 miles). I noticed a few issues.

 

The temp gauge reads way hotter then the engine actually is. I hooked up a scan tool to the car to see what temp it was actually at. Its fairly accurate at first, but after the engine warms up the needles get up real high, almost maxes out at times. I did replace a coolant sensor on the lower intake. Possibly its bad?

 

The throttle is sticking open a little bit, I had this problem previous to the re-build. Its only sticking a tiny amount, but its enough to make the car idle several hundred rpms higher then it should be. I can push on the throttle and it goes back to normal. When the throttle cable is not connected the throttle snaps all the way back like it should. Im thinking bad throttle cable?

 

The thrid issue is the weird one. When I accelerate normally, say around 1/4 throttle, the rpms go up pretty high but the car doesn't accelerate like it should, basically the rpms and speed aren't matching like they should. Alomst as if the transmission is slipping. But the only thing we did trans wise was replace that tranny kickdown cable.

 

Thoughts??

[White93z34]

there are 2 coolant temp senders the one under the T stat housing is what the computer uses the one on the rear cyl head is for the gauge, if you replaced that one were you sure to get one that was for the "full gauges" car and not a car that had an idiot light?

 

see if the cable binds when it is off the TB

 

I wish I knew.

[BXX]

Does the detent (kickdown) cable need adjusted again? Sounds like it does causing the slip issue.

 

Or something is up with the trans modulator or vacuum line. Did you put the check valve back so it doesnt see boost?

[Addicted2bass]

there are 2 coolant temp senders the one under the T stat housing is what the computer uses the one on the rear cyl head is for the gauge, if you replaced that one were you sure to get one that was for the "full gauges" car and not a car that had an idiot light?

 

see if the cable binds when it is off the TB

 

I wish I knew.

 

I replaced both. The one under the t-stat housing was replaced a month or so before the re-build. The one on the cylinder head was the one I was thinking might be bad, got the 2 confused. Its only a 1 wire sensor that was in there, I replaced it with the same one. Ill ask at Napa if they list more then one. I think I have the old one still I could put back in. Its probably going to be a bitch to get to now though.

 

How would I tell if the cable is binding? Sorry if its a dumb question, but I have never dealt with that before.

 

Oh and did you get my PM about the ECM and such?

Does the detent (kickdown) cable need adjusted again? Sounds like it does causing the slip issue.

 

Or something is up with the trans modulator or vacuum line. Did you put the check valve back so it doesnt see boost?

 

How would the detent cable be adjusted? The vacuum lines really kicked my ass, but im pretty sure everything is correct. Im assuming you're talking about the check valve by the trans modulator? Yea that is on there with one end going to the modulator, one to the throttle body and the other is just open. Its possible I could have it in backwards though, I will have to double check on that tomorrow.

[Addicted To Boost]

If the 3-way check valve is on the modulator incorrectly, the tranny will slip. Make sure the large, cone-shaped port is open and pointing toward the drivers side of the car.