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alignment issue


intern8tion9l

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got the tgp aligned today; seems i am having a bit of a problem. the rears are adjusted all the way in, but the tires are clearly both still pointed inward toward the center of the car. it feels a little squirly when i hit bumps.... has anyone ever run into this problem? i have brand new tires and i don't want to kill them

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Sounds like you need a different alignment shop.

 

The best you can hope for is to get the shop that did the previous alignment to tell you WHY they can't make it right--then fix the problem(s)

 

It's a shame that you paid them for failing to perform the work to an appropriate quality standard.

 

Might want to consider complaining to whatever agency provides their business license if they don't do right by you.

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Before we go writing letters to congressmen....

 

what if any suspension modifications are done? I seem to remember you putting it on coil overs?

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Before we go writing letters to congressmen....

 

what if any suspension modifications are done? I seem to remember you putting it on coil overs?

 

This. Aftermarket parts can ruin the chances of getting the alignment right. Well, not so much the parts, but if you're slammed 3 inches, good luck getting it aligned right.

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Before we go writing letters to congressmen....

 

what if any suspension modifications are done? I seem to remember you putting it on coil overs?

 

This. Aftermarket parts can ruin the chances of getting the alignment right. Well, not so much the parts, but if you're slammed 3 inches, good luck getting it aligned right.

If the suspension has been modified, the alignment shop would recognize that and thus be able to explain WHY the alignment cannot be corrected. Should have been written right on the work order, and carefully explained to the customer.

 

The fact that the car was sent out the door with the alignment NOT correct points directly to the incompetence of the shop that did the substandard alignment.

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Gen 1 rear toe set requires cam/eccentric kits which are damn near impossible to get these days. Typically a 3-4 day order item from whatever parts supplier.

 

This is assuming the rear lat arm bolts arent rotted to fuck and siezed.

 

 

 

Im assuming you got a printout on the alignment? Post it up.

 

BTW Shurkey, you are the most negative fricken troll ever.

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BTW Shurkey, you are the most negative fricken troll ever.

Coming from you, that's a compliment.

 

PLEASE POINT OUT EXACTLY where my advice is in error. Explain to us why the alignment shop should take the guy's money and NOT DO A PROPER JOB, and with NO explanation.

Edited by Schurkey
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Coming from you, that's a compliment.

 

PLEASE POINT OUT EXACTLY where my advice is in error. Explain to us why the alignment shop should take the guy's money and NOT DO A PROPER JOB, and with NO explanation.

 

Because a lot of people come in asking for a front end alignment:lol: No, seriously, they do. Our shop charges one price whether its a 4wheel or a 2 wheel or whatnot.

 

And i've told plenty of people that rear toe cant be adjusted due to rust or whatnot. They still end up coming back a day later wondering why we didnt adjust it.

 

That aside.

 

 

And im kinda curious if it is and how much its out. Cause our rear wheels give a good illusion of them being pointed anywhere but straight if there is a fair amount of negitive rear camber. My vert is the same way, and it's set @ .01" rear total toe but -1* LR camber, and -.8* RR camber (I did a quick halfass alignment just so I dont smoke my new tires for now) and the wheels look pointed in a decent amount towards the front.

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Schurkey is right. The shop should have given him a print out and explained to him why the car couldn't be aligned. If I had a lowered car come into my shop, I wouldn't even touch it until my manager talked to the customer directly an explained to him that it's possible that we won't be able to get it to OE alignment angles, and we are NOT responsible for tire wear or any other issues that may arise from the aftermarket parts. Then have the customer sign the R.O. as proof.

 

Even with the best designed aftermarket parts, they are generally not accepted by the general automotive community as "acceptable" replacements for OEM, specifically for safety and warranty reasons. It's too much of a liability to openly accept aftermarket modification. All it takes is one complaint to the BBB... shop owners nightmare.

 

Hell, we won't even install an aftermarket exhaust without getting the customers signature on an R.O. just in case for some reason the hangers don't line up or a muffler rubs on the frame.

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yes it's on coilovers. no, nothing is rusted or seized, cause i took everything apart for cleaning up and painting, and replaced a bunch of stuff. after i left i realized i did not get the print out, i'm planning to go back tomorrow cause the guy was off today. this setup was taken off of my cutlass, which i had no issue aligning.

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Gen 1/1.5 cars can be difficult to align in the rear as is. The inside bolts on the lateral links move on the subframe for alignments. It's difficult to move and not a lot of movement is available. And then add on the fact that its rusted and siezed solid (these wouldn't have been touched on a coilover install ) and it becomes nearly impossible without the actual toe adjustment tool sent to dealers:

 

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=kent+moore+toe&_sacat=&_dmpt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&_odkw=kent+moore+alignment&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313

 

I have one personally and forgot to bring it when aligning my brothers 96 GP (same problem toe messed up causing rear bumpsteer and probably tire wear) and I couldn't get the rear to budge with either my thick 4 foot pry bar or a ratchet strap. I came back next week and did get it aligned with the tool, but was bending the heck out of the tool while doing it, it was so stuck. So I think it's probable the rear didn't get moved a bit by the shop and even if they could have, there may not have been enough movement to get it in alignment on a lowered car.

 

Do what I and others have done and get some 2nd/3rd gen tubular lateral links. The adjustable rear link makes rear alignments a piece of cake and you will have more available movement than you would ever need no matter what mods you have. Oh and you get the added bonus of having a link that's 10x more rigid than the stock garbage.

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i disassembled the entire rear subframe and every suspension component, i didn't just throw the coilovers on; so a seized bolt is out of the question. the guy said he brought the rear link sliding bolts to their full adjustment, but it wasn't enough to make it straight

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i disassembled the entire rear subframe and every suspension component, i didn't just throw the coilovers on; so a seized bolt is out of the question. the guy said he brought the rear link sliding bolts to their full adjustment, but it wasn't enough to make it straight

 

I would get it back on the rack and take a peek under there just to make sure nothing is bent (even a slight bend on the arms will throw things way out) and then have him take another shot at it.

 

Hell, be nice and buy the toe adjustment tool, doesnt cost much.

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