Torque specs for front wheel bearing replacement

[DavidHowell3633]

I will be replacing a bad front Timken bearing after less than 3 thousand miles. I may have over tightened the spindle nut since my torque wrench only goes to 150. I think I remember 179 ft lbs. Then, I read a thread that said 118 is the revised torque. I looked around Timkens web site to no avail. Anyone know for sure? Also, is there a procedure- like torque so far and spin, retorque and spin? It's a 94 CS 3100. Thanks.

[urbex]

I don't know if it's the same, but on my Lumina it said to go to 150ft lbs. I was told however that if reusing the nut you want to drop that down about 10ft lbs or so.

[DavidHowell3633]

I had not considered replacing the nut, but that seems smart. My Haynes manual states 184 ft lbs. Thanks

Edited August 12, 2011 by DavidHowell3633

[urbex]

It said in the manual I used that you HAD to, but anyone I talked to said you don't. BXX said I should just lower the torque specs by 10 ft lbs though.

[DavidHowell3633]

Had to replace the nut? Probably a good idea to, like fresh intake bolts. I didn't do those either. Anyway, my book says 184 ft lbs and that's what I was going for last time. Timken is supposed to be the favored choice and that's what I am using. Just want to confirm the torque for the hub nut. Kinda surprised how much different cars vary on this specification.

[urbex]

Yeah, I would go with whatever the book says.

[Garrett Powered]

maybe you didn't have the nut tight enough? that can take out the bearing more than too tight will.. cant have any play in there so tighten the hell out of it.

[urbex]

But over tightening anything is bad. Otherwise you'll lose it's effectiveness.

[DavidHowell3633]

Guess I'll shell out $80 and get a torque wrench that'll tell me.

[Garrett Powered]

I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.

Edited August 14, 2011 by Garrett Powered

[gp90se]

I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.

 

The exact torque spec on an ir impact gun is the second bang.

[BXX]

I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.

 

 

And this is the number one reason why I have to re replace hub bearings on various cars that other techs tighten the hub nut using their impacts on various settings.

 

40lbs over tighten can lead to premature bearing failure.

 

Could be worse, bearings on Windstars and the like absolutely require new axle nuts and the loctite procedure to be followed properly.

 

Hell, a $30 torque wrench and a new axle nut should be plenty good enough to properly tighten the axle locknut and not end up with premature failure.

[urbex]

I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.

 

[DavidHowell3633]

I rented a KD tools torque wrench and replaced the hub bearing assembly this morning. I replaced the spindle nut. I cleaned all bolts and torques all according to specs. Took torque wrench back and heard a clunk when turning left or right. Now what can that be?

[Garrett Powered]

so whats the torque spec we use then????

[urbex]

so whats the torque spec we use then????

 

Whatever the shop manual says for the car being worked on.

[Garrett Powered]

ok so I don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction, but I have seen a few different numbers myself and been told a bunch of different stuff from different people. I am not the most experienced with replacing these bearings either. I know that too tight is better than too loose. no?

[Garrett Powered]

ok well I might get this torqued properly, I haven't driven this car on this bearing yet and I already know what the answer to the above would be so anyway, too loose was not working out for me.

[AL]

Ill look on alldada, what car do you want me to look up garrett?

[Garrett Powered]

for the TGP. thanks

[DavidHowell3633]

My Haynes manual calls for 184 ft lbs. I rented the tool from Oreilley's.

[urbex]

My Haynes manual calls for 184 ft lbs. I rented the tool from Oreilley's.

 

Yeah, I would go with what the Haynes manual says. You should be set!

[DavidHowell3633]

All seems ok for now. I still have a clunk going on. I will check the top strut nut, but I don't think that's it. I'm picking up some outer sway bar bushings today since mine look wallowed out. Moot blue rubber. Looks like a big deal to replace. Drop the subframe? Seriously? Any better method?

[DavidHowell3633]

The Moog stabilizer bushing went on ok and that helped the clunk. It's the new Timken bearing assembly. This one replaced a newly installed Timken that roared after a thousand miles. This one sounds like loose marbles crunching on tight turns. So, 2 out of 3 bearing assemblies from Timken that ive installed are low quality. I have trouble believing this myself. The right front is fine, smooth, quiet as it should be. I still question the torque spec of 184 ft lbs. May just go to the junk yard next trip.

My ac compressor is oozing green slime (oil and dye) after four years. This one was a rebuild from azone. Where's the quality?

[55trucker]

The torque spec quoted you is correct. Remove the new bearing/hub from the car and bench test in your hand. The bearing should rotate smoothly, no rough spots, you should have to apply some force to get the bearing to spin as it should be tight *to the feel*. There should be no slop in it's motion. *Crunching on tight turns* makes me think you may have an axle shaft situation.