rjOlds Posted August 6, 2011 Report Share Posted August 6, 2011 I was wondering how many broken Driver Information System Units are sitting around people's parts boxes (or in my case in the mess in my garage). As much as I want to generally try and keep as much OEM on the car as possible, it is really the case that as more time goes by, that goal is unattainable. Anyway, I was thinking that it should be possible to refurbish these units with new electronics to get them working again as long as the buttons and screen electronics are still good. Alternatively we could gather up a bunch of units and replace parts to make a few good ones. Last but not least there is the possibility of just using the case and buttons and building the guts from scratch. The only pre-requisite would be at least a DIS chassis with intact buttons for the new build idea. Keep in mind that if I do take this on, with work and kids (I am that old) my time cannot be dedicated to this so it would be a few months before anything meaningful showed up. Is anybody interested in such a project? It is something I would potentially be interested in doing (assuming I find the time of course), I am just wondering how many others would be interested in the same thing. I would expect that rebuilds of HUD electronics would also be possible but I haven't looked at mine too hard to see how realistic this is. Keep in mind I am specifically referring to the ALDL pre-OBD2 compatible stuff (which these units all are anyway). Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 If they're anything like the units on the Toronado/Riviera from '86--'92, there's a known issue with them, the company that built them for GM screwed up on the parts selection. They are very fragile, and pretty much the same thing is wrong with all of them. Not an impossible fix, there's instructions out on the internet for reviving them using more-robust parts. The original manufacturer used to "rebuild" them for big bucks, and installed the same crappy component that caused the failure in the first place. Bubinga 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 i have about 137 of those units. but yes, find some links on how to fix em... and post em up here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Are you referring to those cool looking CRT based units? Way ahead of their time. If so, then no, these are not the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliasCT Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 About 137 Ken? Mind shipping one out to NV? :-P I just grabbed a 95 DIC and then learned that it won't be able to do what I wanted, namely fuel economy... Of course, I have a 93 column shift GP so I don't have a place to PUT the stock DIC anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 We would have to clarify which units. I started off badly by not specifying the Olds ones with the single line display. Each car line had their own view of what each unit should look like, what info was included and how it wourl operate. For me I only currently have very good knowledge of the Olds Cutlass units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 I had one that was temperature sensitive and I was able to repair it by resoldering. Every few years it would become possessed dependent on temperature so I'd have to resolder it again. Then one day, the screen just went black with random segments lit dimly. Resoldering didn't fix it. I ended up replacing it with an identical looking one from an Olds 88 or 98. The replacement has worked fine for almost a decade now. I never figured out what was wrong with my original unit and still have it in my basement somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 Both of my units go crazy in similar ways, so I figure one or more of my wire splices is loose. I will deal with that first and cross my fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 When it is really cold outside. My will show ------- for a minute or two. Only did that twice and it was like -10 outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 I assume you are talking -10F, which does start to get pretty nippy. Automotive spec electronics are supposed to be good to -40(F or C take your pick) but there is no guarantee they are still in spec after all this time (and assuming all the parts are at least auto grade). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 It was F. It went away both times on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 If you're talking about the Cutlass ones in specific, most can be repaired by replacing that ribbon cable that goes from one circuit board to the other with wires. It fixed mine for a while, but something else is up with it now, it resets, displays odd characters, goes blank, etc. I found a new one on this forum in excellent condition/working order. I think it would be WELL worth it to try and find a common component issue with these. I still have my original factory unit and have no problem donating it to the cause. I just ask that if it is fixed, I am able to buy it back for a reasonable price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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