Jump to content

Engine & Trans mounts - What brand?


Stan9864

Recommended Posts

For my 2000 3.1L Buick Century, I will probably want to replace these.

 

Is replacement fairly straightforward (floor jack, piece of wood, basic tools, some sweat?)

 

As with other cars, the aftermarket replacements for these seem to be made by Anchor. My experience with these is that they are absolute crap.

 

Does anyone want to vouch for the Anchor mounts on these engines? If not, do I have to go with OEM (dealer)?

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need to replace my motor mount, but I'll probably just go with Duralast or whatever they sell at AutoZone.

 

Someone told me you want to go with the dry type mount so that they don't leak like the factory ones did. Don't know if that's true or not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whenever given the chance I always opt for the solid rubber mount over the hydraulic ones. They are almos always special order though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whenever given the chance I always opt for the solid rubber mount over the hydraulic ones. They are almos always special order though

Autozone offers both, and yes, the solid type is special order and a few bucks more. Although these mounts are Duralast branded, they share the Anchor-brand part number, which lead me to believe they are just rebranded Anchor mounts.

 

I would have some concern that the solid type might not yield the same ride as the hydraulic ones. Also, I would like to hear how much use I can expect get out of the hydraulic mounts before I can expect them to leak again.

 

Nobody has yet to advise as to hassle factor of changing these mounts out. That enters into the decision.

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cannot advise procedures, but I know its a job id rather not do again.

 

The solid mounts are actually cheaper (at least last I checked) and I've yet to be able to tell the difference myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cannot advise procedures, but I know its a job id rather not do again.

 

The solid mounts are actually cheaper (at least last I checked) and I've yet to be able to tell the difference myself.

Autozone showing the hydraulic mount for $47, solid mount for $50.

 

I am not looking for procedures (yet, ha ha ha), just a sense of the hassle factor.

 

I note that on Advance Auto's page, there is one review of the ANchor brand hydraulic mount, and the reviewer said that it began leaking immediately. That may reflect more on the ANchor brand than the mount type,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drill hole, drain out hydraulic fluid. Fill with liquid nails. Never replace failed mount again.

 

Also, less drivetrain loss!!

 

 

BTW, I've seen this done before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was told my solid mount from Autozone wasn't solid :think:

 

That being said I have yet to put it in, so we will see after it goes in and the car gets dropped if it fails.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Most "solid" mounts are not solid. I have dorman ones at work and theyre hollow inside with no fluid. My "custom" ones are the hydralic ones since they were cheaper and I drilled a few holes and drains out what seemed to be just water.

 

I refilled mine with 3M window weld since it it urethane and will have some give. Only downside is the need to let them cure for a couple weeks before installing. Great cheap mod IMO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the write up Adam did..

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/35847-3100-Lower-Motor-Mount-Replacement-Write-Up

Took me about 7.5 hours the first time I did it.. I had tons of trouble wrestling the old mount out, and even more trouble getting the stud on the mount to line up with the hole in the mounting area... And FWIW, I went with the solid mount from auto zone.. It's been almost 3 years now and no troubles from it..

Edited by 88red4cyl
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems like every brand is Anchor. Which appears to be shit. The one I got, the top studs, one was crooked! We had to bend it back so we could get the bracket on...

 

So based on that, I'd try OEM. If you don't have to deal with the shit, it's probably worth it. Plus if it's made anywhere other than China...:thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...