Stan9864 Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 For my 2000 3.1L Buick Century, I will probably want to replace these. Is replacement fairly straightforward (floor jack, piece of wood, basic tools, some sweat?) As with other cars, the aftermarket replacements for these seem to be made by Anchor. My experience with these is that they are absolute crap. Does anyone want to vouch for the Anchor mounts on these engines? If not, do I have to go with OEM (dealer)? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 I need to replace my motor mount, but I'll probably just go with Duralast or whatever they sell at AutoZone. Someone told me you want to go with the dry type mount so that they don't leak like the factory ones did. Don't know if that's true or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Whenever given the chance I always opt for the solid rubber mount over the hydraulic ones. They are almos always special order though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted July 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 Whenever given the chance I always opt for the solid rubber mount over the hydraulic ones. They are almos always special order though Autozone offers both, and yes, the solid type is special order and a few bucks more. Although these mounts are Duralast branded, they share the Anchor-brand part number, which lead me to believe they are just rebranded Anchor mounts. I would have some concern that the solid type might not yield the same ride as the hydraulic ones. Also, I would like to hear how much use I can expect get out of the hydraulic mounts before I can expect them to leak again. Nobody has yet to advise as to hassle factor of changing these mounts out. That enters into the decision. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 I cannot advise procedures, but I know its a job id rather not do again. The solid mounts are actually cheaper (at least last I checked) and I've yet to be able to tell the difference myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted July 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 I cannot advise procedures, but I know its a job id rather not do again. The solid mounts are actually cheaper (at least last I checked) and I've yet to be able to tell the difference myself. Autozone showing the hydraulic mount for $47, solid mount for $50. I am not looking for procedures (yet, ha ha ha), just a sense of the hassle factor. I note that on Advance Auto's page, there is one review of the ANchor brand hydraulic mount, and the reviewer said that it began leaking immediately. That may reflect more on the ANchor brand than the mount type, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Drill hole, drain out hydraulic fluid. Fill with liquid nails. Never replace failed mount again. Also, less drivetrain loss!! BTW, I've seen this done before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I was told my solid mount from Autozone wasn't solid That being said I have yet to put it in, so we will see after it goes in and the car gets dropped if it fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Most "solid" mounts are not solid. I have dorman ones at work and theyre hollow inside with no fluid. My "custom" ones are the hydralic ones since they were cheaper and I drilled a few holes and drains out what seemed to be just water. I refilled mine with 3M window weld since it it urethane and will have some give. Only downside is the need to let them cure for a couple weeks before installing. Great cheap mod IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) Here's the write up Adam did.. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/35847-3100-Lower-Motor-Mount-Replacement-Write-Up Took me about 7.5 hours the first time I did it.. I had tons of trouble wrestling the old mount out, and even more trouble getting the stud on the mount to line up with the hole in the mounting area... And FWIW, I went with the solid mount from auto zone.. It's been almost 3 years now and no troubles from it.. Edited August 30, 2011 by 88red4cyl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49447 heres some pictures of mine that James did and posted up on a local forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuminaPower92 Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 I vote factory. Take it for whatever but thats what i put back in the Luminas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 It seems like every brand is Anchor. Which appears to be shit. The one I got, the top studs, one was crooked! We had to bend it back so we could get the bracket on... So based on that, I'd try OEM. If you don't have to deal with the shit, it's probably worth it. Plus if it's made anywhere other than China... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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