94 Cutlass Vert 3.1 LIM this weekend

[Bostons94Vert]

I'm finally getting around to the wonderful job of replacing the gaskets for my Cutlass and was wondering if there was any tips or anything I should know before the tear down...any help is greatly appreciated

[jman093]

Intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths. Make sure they go back in the right spots or bad things happen. Don't forget to clip the wire (I think it might go to the o2 sensor) on the left rear side of engine by the coolant pipe back onto its bracket or burns through on the exhaust.

[Bostons94Vert]

I read about the pushrods thank you for the advice and the info on the wiring...I've done a lot of reading and have decent skills with cars in general but this job scares me a little

Edited July 29, 2011 by Bostons94Vert
misspell

[Crazy K]

use the premium metal intake gasket set or don't do the job at all. the cheaper gaskets fail even worse than the original.

 

from rockauto.com

FEL-PRO Part # MS98004T PermaDryPlus®; 2 intake manifold gaskets, 1 egr tube gasket, 1 egr valve gasket, 1 thermostat seal, 2 valve covers, 1 egr tube gasket, 1 thermostat bypass oring, 2 intake manifold upper gaskets, 1 tube RTV

2nd Design; w/Roller rocker arms; w/Push rod guides on int. gskt.; Valve cover gskts. & Upper set incl.; PermaDryPlus® int. manifold gskts. incl.; Manifold bolts not incl.; Manifold bolt replacement recommended

1st Design; w/Ball & Pivot rocker arms; w/o Push rod guides on int. gskt.; Valve cover gskts. & Upper set incl.; PermaDryPlus® int. manifold gskts. incl.; Manifold bolts not incl.; Manifold bolt replacement recommended

$62.79Add to Cart

 

you can simply clean the intake bolt threads and re-use... BUT you really need to loctite them down as they have a propensity to become loose.

 

You'll need a fuel line diconnect tool

ALSO... if you touch the fuel injectors, you should install new O-rings. actually, you should do them regardless. Refer to the PART NUMBER thread stickied in GENERAL for more info.

 

 

Other things you should do with intake off:

OIL DRIVE - get a new silicone O-rings and a paper distributor gasket as a back up. on

 

inspect/clean cam sensor - clean it's top with brake cleaner. Once clean you will probably see the insulation backing off. If the wires aren't frayed but you can see them, you can fix with silicone RTV. Make an RTV dome over the top of the sensor to displace oil and seal oil away from the wires.

Edited July 29, 2011 by Crazy K

[Bostons94Vert]

I did get the FEL-PRO set from rockauto like u pictured...I went a lil over and ordered a new water pump...t-stat...pcv valve...6 new ac DELCO rapidfire plugs...fuel filter...radiator hoses and new manifold bolts...its overkill but it was all less than 200 bucks so I figured why not...I noticed that the GASKET set includes the oil pump drive seal is that the o ring you mentioned? How many o rings do the injectors need? I know its either 2 or 3 a piece I'm just not sure how many to get

[Bostons94Vert]

i dont see the part number from the thread on any site but i did find a fel-pro set (Part No. ES 70599) and a BDW set (Part No. 27478) im not sure which set would be the better choice. I dont mean to ask a million questions i just want to make sure this gets done right the first time. I found this oil pump seal from dorman(http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Dorman-Oil-Pump-Seal/1994-Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Supreme/_/N-j1579Z8zo4x?counter=0&itemIdentifier=347153_0_2826_) is this the correct o ring set

[Crazy K]

Injector O-rings:

You need 12 injectors rings for top and bottom, and a rubber friendly lubricant to install. (i prefer dielectric silicone grease)

I've bought mine at Advance auto parts:

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/41280-The-Parts-Number-Thread!!?p=870723&viewfull=1#post870723

 

OIL DRIVE: I can't answer if the autozone ring is correct, but I see black rubber and brown silicone rubber rings out there, I always use the silicone rings.

 

here's an LQ1 oil drive repair, you need the same gaskets, but you don't need to hack it out:

http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c214/Crazy_Ken/LQ1%20oil%20drive%20fix/

 

 

 

I forgot to add:

 

you should ohm test all your injectors, they should be near 12ohms, if you have any out of spec they should be replaced at this time.

 

during assembly it is a good idea to do an injector trickle down test: install injectors onto rail with new O-rings, hook up fuel lines(if applicable) do not install into intake. place rags or towels under fuel rail and operate the fuel pump with the test lead for ten seconds. (you may need to prime and evacuate air from the fuel rail first via the schrader valve on it)

 

if good install into intake and connect everything up. repeat fuel pump test to observe that the o-rings are seated and not leaking. I did an 01 3100 with stock GM dealer black rubber o-rings and the POSs all leaked during the verification test, hence why i use the silicone ones above.

 

and in case you don't know the fuel pump can be operated with it's test lead, a small red wire hanging near the battery/aux post area.

[Bostons94Vert]

I got some FEL-PRO injectors gaskets...they came in packs of 4 so I got three...I appreciate the info on the injectors and fuel pump test...do you think any serious damage could have occurred because of the lim or should it be fine after replacement?

[rjOlds]

Finally I now know what that darn red lead is for. I couldn't figure it out and assume the engine rebuilder had forgotten to hook something up. I was going to ask them when I took the car back down, but now I know. Of course the car is running fine so I could not understand what in the world it could be for. Awesome.

[AL]

Don't forget to clip the wire (I think it might go to the o2 sensor) on the left rear side of engine by the coolant pipe back onto its bracket

 

Its the crank sensor to the ICM wires