Laveen Z34 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Is it hard to do the brakes of the Z34? Not quite sure if I have to replace all the rotors, they all felt pretty worn out but I'll let Auto Zone decide to see if they can smooth it out. Anyways, I'm just a regular Joe that learned how to fix just my own car from exprerience and maintaining my Humvee when I was in the Army. Any help is, of course, greatly appreciated. Please let me know...... Laveen Z34:cheers: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Not hard at all. Remove wheel. Remove caliper. Remove caliper bracket. [you will need a torx size 60 socket if i remember correctly.] Rotor slides right off. It will probably cost more to have your rotors smoothed out, than to buy new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laveen Z34 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Thanks Bro! That made me feel good. How about draining the brake fluid, is it also pretty simple? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 For the rear you need a special tool to retract the caliper pistons. It can be rented from Oreilly/Autozone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Not hard at all. Remove caliper bracket. [you will need a torx size 60 socket if i remember correctly. QFT T-60 is the size, and O'Reilly Auto sells a GMPP T-60 for like $8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 For the rear you need a special tool to retract the caliper pistons. It can be rented from Oreilly/Autozone. This "special tool" is also called a C-clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laveen Z34 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Thanks Guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 c-clamps dont work for the rear, since the pistons twist as they go in. Hence the special tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) c-clamps dont work for the rear, since the pistons twist as they go in. Hence the special tool. Not at all true. Remove one nut and one washer holding the park brake lever. Remove park brake lever from caliper. Push piston in. MUCH easier than trying to spin the piston in with the dumbass "special tool". If you have stock-style RUBBER brake hoses, you can lightly pinch them with a needle-nose vice-grip, and then open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back in--that way you don't send crappy contaminated brake fluid back through the ABS unit. Don't do this after converting to Teflon-liner brake hoses, though. Edited June 26, 2011 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) Not at all true. Remove one nut and one washer holding the park brake lever. Remove park brake lever from caliper. Push piston in. MUCH easier than trying to spin the piston in with the dumbass "special tool". If you have stock-style RUBBER brake hoses, you can lightly pinch them with a needle-nose vice-grip, and then open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back in--that way you don't send crappy contaminated brake fluid back through the ABS unit. Don't do this after converting to Teflon-liner brake hoses, though. ***EDIT*** I stand corrected. My bad! Edited June 26, 2011 by tornado_735 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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