amp bad?

[Garrett Powered]

holy fucking shit. I flushed 50 bucks

[xtremerevolution]

Lol, at least you got a good quality head unit!

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[pwmin]

only 4V, but?

 

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_28453_JVC_KW-AVX640.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison

 

 

hate to spend that much money, though

 

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/s_105KDA925B/JVC-Arsenal-KD-A925BT.html?tp=5684

 

 

 

I like the one Garrett got, too...a better deal, too.

Edited June 19, 2011 by pwmin

[pwmin]

Well, we figured out what was going on.

 

Had the sub hooked up, and no matter what gain we gave it, there was very little output. Tried running the RCA's off of the stereo outputs on the head unit, still not much volume. Tried another set of RCA's, still nothing.

 

So I had the idea, get a DVD player and hook that up directly. It will give a very high output signal, and will let you know what's up. Hooked that up, set the high and low pass, and all I could hear over the phone was his trunk rattling to hell, and that was with the amp's gain on the lowest setting. So it looks like some adjustments need to be done on the head unit or the head unit might have issues.

Well, IDK. I got a set of RCA to 3.5mm phono and hooked my iPoo up to the amp and it didn't seem very strong. IDK, I must have been hearing wrong or something. I also hooked up a different h/u and nothing seemed to improve. I'm guessing it has to be the amp. The weird thing is the MTX Road Thunder seems to hit harder, but maybe that's because it's not giving the Dayton the power it needs to do anything, but it should still blow that POS if it's getting its full power. oh and I might have fucked the dayton up when it slipped pulling it out of the trunk What a fucking nightmare of an ordeal. I'm tempted to hook up my lightning audio amp, but IDK what that's going to tell me since it's barely enough power for the MTX anyway and I would be afraid to run the Dayton off of that POS. Edited June 20, 2011 by pwmin

[xtremerevolution]

Well, IDK. I got a set of RCA to 3.5mm phone and hooked my iPoo up to the amp and it didn't seem very strong. IDK, I must have been hearing wrong or something. I also hooked up a different h/u and nothing seemed to improve. I'm guessing it has to be the amp. The weird thing is the MTX Road Thunder seems to hit harder, but maybe that's because it's not giving the Dayton the power it needs to do anything, but it should still blow that POS if it's getting its full power. oh and I might have fucked the dayton up when it slipped pulling it out of the trunk What a fucking nightmare of an ordeal. I'm tempted to hook up my lightning audio amp, but IDK what that's going to tell me since it's barely enough power for the MTX anyway and I would be afraid to run the Dayton off of that POS.

 

Sounds like you need to really crank the gains on the amp and on the head unit as well. The head unit should have a separate subwoofer adjustment? I know that sub should pound pretty hard.

 

How do you think you screwed it up?

 

I know you had plenty of output when you hooked up the DVD player, so this really has me wondering what's going on.

 

Take some pictures man!

[pwmin]

Sounds like you need to really crank the gains on the amp and on the head unit as well. The head unit should have a separate subwoofer adjustment? I know that sub should pound pretty hard.

 

How do you think you screwed it up?

 

I know you had plenty of output when you hooked up the DVD player, so this really has me wondering what's going on.

 

Take some pictures man!

I had the amp cranked and the h/u sub outputs cranked.

 

I dented the the middle of the cone and it separated a little.

 

The other h/u is a pioneer DEH-P2000 and only has one set of RCA's. I also tried using the sub and the rear outputs on my JVC h/u and not much of a difference.

 

I'm not sure I was right about the DVD player thing now. I hooked up my iPoo just like I did that and there's no noticeable difference between that and w/ the RCA's running off the receiver.

Edited June 20, 2011 by pwmin

[xtremerevolution]

I had the amp cranked and the h/u sub outputs cranked.

 

I dented the the middle of the cone and it separated a little.

 

The other h/u is a pioneer DEH-P2000 and only has one set of RCA's. I also tried using the sub and the rear outputs on my JVC h/u and not much of a difference.

 

I'm not sure I was right about the DVD player thing now. I hooked up my iPoo just like I did that and there's no noticeable difference between that and w/ the RCA's running off the receiver.

 

What you dented was probably the dust cap. That can be glued back on easily. No big deal really. Seal it back up with silicone sealant and get a grille for the sub.

 

If you're convinced that something isn't right, call up boston acoustics or try to run the sub off of the other amp. It's possible they sent you a bad amp.

 

Kinda confuses me though since your trunk was rattling pretty bad and I could hear it through the phone. What does the excursion look like?

[pwmin]

What you dented was probably the dust cap. That can be glued back on easily. No big deal really. Seal it back up with silicone sealant and get a grille for the sub.

 

If you're convinced that something isn't right, call up boston acoustics or try to run the sub off of the other amp. It's possible they sent you a bad amp.

 

Kinda confuses me though since your trunk was rattling pretty bad and I could hear it through the phone. What does the excursion look like?

cool, hopefully I got it fixed up okay. What grille can I use? The normal ones I've used will just get hit by the excursion.

 

I just wish I had another amp that would decently power this sub. This LA 200.2 isn't going to do anything for it.

 

I know, but I tried it again w/ my iPoo and it was weak as usual. I did fix a couple little air leaks in the box, too...just where the sub is screwed into it.

[virtuetovice]

Pick yourself up a "1000" watt from a flea market. I'm pretty sure it wasn't a full thousand but for $80 it was the best amp i ever had.

[xtremerevolution]

cool, hopefully I got it fixed up okay. What grille can I use? The normal ones I've used will just get hit by the excursion.

 

I just wish I had another amp that would decently power this sub. This LA 200.2 isn't going to do anything for it.

 

I know, but I tried it again w/ my iPoo and it was weak as usual. I did fix a couple little air leaks in the box, too...just where the sub is screwed into it.

 

Your current amp might be alright for a while if it still works, at least to narrow down the problem. Keep in mind that you need double the power to gain every 3db, as a general guideline.

 

Not sure about grilles. I've seen people just used raised steel bars to protect the sub from large objects. Part of the reason for recessing the sub is to allow you to more easily fit a grille without it sticking out too far.

[pwmin]

Well, I guess I'm going to try and contact Boston. I mean, I hooked up the other h/u to the amp w/ the MTX and it should have blown the sub at full power if it really was the h/u. I'm currently running the MTX w/ the Boston and my JVC h/u. The weird thing is it definitely hits harder than the Dayton w/ everything else the same.

 

I'll have to look at some different grilles and into making my own.

[xtremerevolution]

Well, I guess I'm going to try and contact Boston. I mean, I hooked up the other h/u to the amp w/ the MTX and it should have blown the sub at full power if it really was the h/u. I'm currently running the MTX w/ the Boston and my JVC h/u. The weird thing is it definitely hits harder than the Dayton w/ everything else the same.

 

I'll have to look at some different grilles and into making my own.

 

What box are you using with the MTX? Isn't that a 12"?

 

That amp should fry that sub in short order with its full rated output. The MTX Road Thunder (I believe that's what you have?) also happens to have a higher sensitivity but only takes 125W. You need about 2x the power with the Dayton to get the same output, but that output should be extremely clean.

 

Now if you wanted it to hit really hard, I would have built you a boomy ported box. Instead, I designed you a box that was made to sound exactly the way it was recorded, and chances are in the recording studios, you don't hear overpowering bass. Another reason why your MTX sub might sound louder is because the Dayton hasn't yet been broken in, and because you may have had a ported box with the MTX. Louder, but less controlled and less accurate. Just speculating here.

 

That being said, the Dayton should be able to keep up with volume increases on your head unit quite easily, and as I mentioned before, you should be able to see that cone excursion moving pretty hard too.

 

I'm really not sure at this point where the problem is since I can't actually see the sub myself. I'd suggest finding another friend nearby with a sound system and hooking up your sub and see what it sounds like in another system.

 

I wish we knew of someone nearby that could have a listen.

[pwmin]

What box are you using with the MTX? Isn't that a 12"?

 

That amp should fry that sub in short order with its full rated output. The MTX Road Thunder (I believe that's what you have?) also happens to have a higher sensitivity but only takes 125W. You need about 2x the power with the Dayton to get the same output, but that output should be extremely clean.

 

Now if you wanted it to hit really hard, I would have built you a boomy ported box. Instead, I designed you a box that was made to sound exactly the way it was recorded, and chances are in the recording studios, you don't hear overpowering bass. Another reason why your MTX sub might sound louder is because the Dayton hasn't yet been broken in, and because you may have had a ported box with the MTX. Louder, but less controlled and less accurate. Just speculating here.

 

That being said, the Dayton should be able to keep up with volume increases on your head unit quite easily, and as I mentioned before, you should be able to see that cone excursion moving pretty hard too.

 

I'm really not sure at this point where the problem is since I can't actually see the sub myself. I'd suggest finding another friend nearby with a sound system and hooking up your sub and see what it sounds like in another system.

 

I wish we knew of someone nearby that could have a listen.

Yeah, it's a Road Thunder 12 in just a generic "sealed" truck box.

 

Yeah, that's the thing, it should take more power to push the Dayton as much and I won't get a ton of bass w/ the box and stuff, but it should be blowing the MTX easily either way.

 

I'll see what Boston says. Yeah, I wish I had a more powerful amp to hook up to the Dayton instead of this Lightning Audio and I don't really know anyone near me that has a good system. Maybe I'll ask on ClubGP Rocky Mountain.

[pwmin]

Well, my cousin came over for a little and I remembered he had a decent system in his car, so we hooked up the Dayton to his JL e1800D (should have been pushing about 500W) and it SEEMED, lol, to be hitting a lot harder. Hopefully boston will just send me another one and it will fix the problem. It powers the MTX well, but that's not what it's supposed to do.

[xtremerevolution]

Well, my cousin came over for a little and I remembered he had a decent system in his car, so we hooked up the Dayton to his JL e1800D (should have been pushing about 500W) and it SEEMED, lol, to be hitting a lot harder. Hopefully boston will just send me another one and it will fix the problem. It powers the MTX well, but that's not what it's supposed to do.

 

Well, I guess that answers that question. If it sounded better, then that's all you really need to know. Honestly though, if you're sending a signal from your head unit and there's no problem with it, cranking the gain to max on an amp should give you WAY more power than you can even deal with. I think its safe to say that something's up with the amp. Boston Acoustics should be able to get that replaced for you no problem since it does have a warranty.

[pwmin]

I just put the LA amp back in and it seems to be pushing the MTX just as much as the Boston was, too. Just waiting to hear back from them. I do need to get some more wire, though since I barely have enough right now to even reach the amp where I mounted it. Should I just get 1/0 and a d-bloc so I can have expansion capabilities if I need them?

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA-PK0

or do I need pure copper wire?

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0

 

 

 

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-23

Edited June 21, 2011 by pwmin

[xtremerevolution]

I just put the LA amp back in and it seemed to push the MTX just as much as the Boston was, too. Just waiting to hear back from them. I do need to get some more wire, though since I barely have enough right now. Should I just get 1/0 and a d-bloc so I can have expansion capabilities if I need them?

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA-PK0

or do I need pure copper wire?

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0

 

Stay waaaay away from CCA wire. 4 gauge of oxy free copper will be all you need for this amplifier. You can run 2 gauge if you really need something bigger, but 4 gauge should be just fine if not overkill for 500W of power.

[pwmin]

Stay waaaay away from CCA wire. 4 gauge of oxy free copper will be all you need for this amplifier. You can run 2 gauge if you really need something bigger, but 4 gauge should be just fine if not overkill for 500W of power.

What if I decide to run an amp for the highs/mids? I have to replace all the power wire anyway, so that's why I was thinking I should maybe go w/ 1/0.

 

 

btw, the wire I have right now is the Kolossus wire (OFC)

Edited June 21, 2011 by pwmin

[xtremerevolution]

What if I decide to run an amp for the highs/mids? I have to replace all the power wire anyway, so that's why I was thinking I should maybe go w/ 1/0.

 

 

btw, the wire I have right now is the Kolossus wire (OFC)

 

Highs/mids don't require anywhere near as much power. If you want to be on the safe side, run 2 gauge, but 1/0 is way way overkill.

[pwmin]

I'll probably just use a d-bloc then instead of running all-new wire even though it's not ideal.

[pwmin]

Why would someone call the Dayton sub a fake Boston? and why would they say it will only push 250W @ 4ohm?

[xtremerevolution]

Why would someone call the Dayton sub a fake Boston? and why would they say it will only push 250W @ 4ohm?

 

Because they're stupid and they have absolutely no idea what they're talking about? The dayton subs are dayton subs through and through, and Dayton has been making drivers for quite some time now. They don't resemble any Boston acoustics subs I know of. They are designed by Dayton and manufactured by Dayton, and they will take their rated 600W RMS thermal handling power. They have also been very extensively tested on diyma.com and have been extremely well reviewed as being very low distortion subs that provide lots of very, very clean power.

[pwmin]

Because they're stupid and they have absolutely no idea what they're talking about? The dayton subs are dayton subs through and through, and Dayton has been making drivers for quite some time now. They don't resemble any Boston acoustics subs I know of. They are designed by Dayton and manufactured by Dayton, and they will take their rated 600W RMS thermal handling power. They have also been very extensively tested on diyma.com and have been extremely well reviewed as being very low distortion subs that provide lots of very, very clean power.

Well, I've known them for quite some time and he's worked at car audio shops forever and I thought he knew what he was talking about. I looked at the Boston subs and they look nothing like any of them. The magnet is about the size of the G3, but that's about it. I didn't think they were even anything alike. I guess the cone looks about the same minus the different dust cap, but still. And why would he say the amp will only be running at 250W? Even so, at that it should blow the MTX pretty quickly. besides that, the LA amp is actually pushing the MTX harder than the Boston and there's no way if they're both running to their potential that would happen. I actually just told him that I hooked it up to another amp, so we'll see how his view changes.

[pwmin]

I might hook up the Dayton to the LA amp this evening just for the hell of it. (not permanently, though).

[xtremerevolution]

Well, I've known them for quite some time and he's worked at car audio shops forever and I thought he knew what he was talking about. I looked at the Boston subs and they look nothing like any of them. The magnet is about the size of the G3, but that's about it. I didn't think they were even anything alike. I guess the cone looks about the same minus the different dust cap, but still. And why would he say the amp will only be running at 250W? Even so, at that it should blow the MTX pretty quickly. besides that, the LA amp is actually pushing the MTX harder than the Boston and there's no way if they're both running to their potential that would happen. I actually just told him that I hooked it up to another amp, so we'll see how his view changes.

 

Yeah, they're seriously nothing alike. They aren't the same sub and they don't have the same design. Different by a long shot. He probably saw the spec on the GTA-400M. You do have the GTA-800M right? You have a 4 ohm impedance, and at that impedance, the GTA-400M can deliver 250W, and the GTA-800M can deliver 500W.

 

I might hook up the Dayton to the LA amp this evening just for the hell of it. (not permanently, though).

 

You should at least get some good sound out of it. I wish I could help you more, but I'd have to see your setup in person.