amp bad?

[pwmin]

probably not enough info, but just checking to see what you think. The other day, all of the sudden, my sub wouldn't turn off...constant bass. Now, it won't work at all. I can jiggle the rca connection and get some noise, but that's it. Do you think my amp is torched? sub? Not a big deal, but I don't want to replace the wrong thing. The sub and amp are super old and super crap (Road Thunder 12 and Lightning Audio amp).

[xtremerevolution]

I'll bet on your amp being bad. Subs won't exhibit that kind of behavior when they go bad.

[Garrett Powered]

you got a crappy RCA?

[pwmin]

I'll bet on your amp being bad. Subs won't exhibit that kind of behavior when they go bad.

didn't think so

 

you got a crappy RCA?

well, that's possible, i suppose. They're knuconceptz, but I can't recall which type. I could try that, but I really don't feel like it, lol. If I just get another amp and this one is still good, I'll put it back in my truck and replace the RCA's then.

 

 

This a decent combo (yes, I know, not that powerful)?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20001_Boston-Acoustics-GTA-400M.html

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-7171-ctx124-image-dynamics-12-ctx-4-ohm-subwoofer.aspx

OR

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-4995-id12d4-v3-image-dynamics-12-dual-4-ohm-v3-subwoofer.aspx

 

btw, I already have 4 ga. wiring

[Addicted2bass]

Try to look for a sub that is a DVC 4ohm so you can run that amp at a 2 ohm load. It will only put out 250w at 4 ohm.

[pwmin]

Try to look for a sub that is a DVC 4ohm so you can run that amp at a 2 ohm load. It will only put out 250w at 4 ohm.

ya, sry messed up w/ the first one (picked the wrong version)...the second is dual 4

[xtremerevolution]

ya, sry messed up w/ the first one (picked the wrong version)...the second is dual 4

 

Nice, clean subs. I haven't heard the CTX but I have heard the ID, the IDQ V2 and V3, and the IDMax V3 and they both deliver solid and top notch performance. If I was in that price range though, I'd pick up a used IDQ V2 sub.

 

Let me know if you need help building the box.

[pwmin]

what y'all think about ARC audi KS12's? There's a dealer right down the street from me so that might be a good option and I've heard pretty good thigs about the subs.

 

Nice, clean subs. I haven't heard the CTX but I have heard the ID, the IDQ V2 and V3, and the IDMax V3 and they both deliver solid and top notch performance. If I was in that price range though, I'd pick up a used IDQ V2 sub.

 

Let me know if you need help building the box.

cool, thanks. I was thinking about using the plans on clubgp for using the bypass and using one side for the sub and the other for the amp, but I'm open to options. I just have the MTX RT12 in a generic "truck box".

[xtremerevolution]

what y'all think about ARC audi KS12's? There's a dealer right down the street from me so that might be a good option and I've heard pretty good thigs about the subs.

 

cool, thanks. I was thinking about using the plans on clubgp for using the bypass and using one side for the sub and the other for the amp, but I'm open to options. I just have the MTX RT12 in a generic "truck box".

 

Keep an eye on the thread below yours and I'll show you how a REAL box is made, with some real design and engineering. I'm in the process of designing a badass box for another guy here.

[pwmin]

I would just like to have it so I can still use my pass-through.

 

I must be dumb cuz I can't find the thread...

[xtremerevolution]

I would just like to have it so I can still use my pass-through.

 

I must be dumb cuz I can't find the thread...

 

I would very highly recommend finding an IDQ V2 sub or even an IDQ V3 10" used. Those will work extremely well in smaller sealed boxes, which you will need if you want to keep your passthrough.

 

The thread has gone off topic, but here's the most recent page. I didn't get a chance to finish the design yesterday.

 

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/50851-Looking-for-ideas-for-a-small-amplifer-for-a-set-of-component-speakers/page5

[pwmin]

well, I really don't want to spend a ton of money. Is there anything else you'd recommend around the 400W RMS mark that would do well in a small box? RE SRX12D4? Those subs are more than I'd want to spend plus I'd have to spend more for a more powerful amp. I just want something decent this time. TBH, the setup I had before was enough bass for me, although I wouldn't mind more and I'm obviously looking for something cleaner than what I had.

Edited June 6, 2011 by pwmin

[pwmin]

also, my plan is to use one side for the sub and the other to flush-mount the amp. Guess I could go to a 10 if I needed to like you said. I have a ZZP rear STB too that I need to keep in there.

[xtremerevolution]

well, I really don't want to spend a ton of money. Is there anything else you'd recommend around the 400W RMS mark that would do well in a small box? RE SRX12D4? Those subs are more than I'd want to spend plus I'd have to spend more for a more powerful amp. I just want something decent this time. TBH, the setup I had before was enough bass for me, although I wouldn't mind more and I'm obviously looking for something cleaner than what I had.

 

I assume then you're looking for SQ. What music do you primarily listen to? What is your budget? Am I correct in assuming you now have 400W RMS at your disposal? What impedance is that at?

 

also, my plan is to use one side for the sub and the other to flush-mount the amp. Guess I could go to a 10 if I needed to like you said. I have a ZZP rear STB too that I need to keep in there.

 

Do NOT mount the amp to the sub box. That's a sure and proven way to destroy an amp over time. Mount it remotely. Also, I would recommend that you do not flush mount it anywhere, but at a minimum, use washers as spacers. What are your maximum allowed box dimensions?

[pwmin]

i was actually going to make 3 separate pieces like I did in my 96 so they would be separate and I'd leave a little room so they're not connected tightly.

[xtremerevolution]

i was actually going to make 3 separate pieces like I did in my 96 so they would be separate and I'd leave a little room so they're not connected tightly.

 

Its the vibrations you need to be worried about. Seriously, don't try it. Just mount the amp somewhere in the car and run a speaker wire to the sub.

[pwmin]

I assume then you're looking for SQ. What music do you primarily listen to? What is your budget? Am I correct in assuming you now have 400W RMS at your disposal? What impedance is that at?

yep. I listen to everything pretty much but I'd say rap maybe 25% of the time, rock 50% of the time and other another 25% of the time. I do not have an amp right now...that's actually what I need but I think my old sub is on its way out and I'd like to get a new one anyway. I was just looking at a Boston amp that's 400 rms (I probably should get something bigger or a "smaller" sub than 400W. Figured if I stayed in that range I could keep my costs down and still get something decent. Was going to just get a Crunch amp on the cheap but I may as well get something better.

[pwmin]

Its the vibrations you need to be worried about. Seriously, don't try it. Just mount the amp somewhere in the car and run a speaker wire to the sub.

 

 

ya, i know. I've done it before, but I know it's not a good idea, but I never did it with good stuff. I just want to save space. I'll figure something out so it's somewhere else. Right now, I just have the LA amp on the trunk floor, lol, which is probably why it went out. However, I've had it for a good 8 years or so and the sub's probably 10 years old...not bad for cheap crap.

[xtremerevolution]

ya, i know. I've done it before, but I know it's not a good idea, but I never did it with good stuff. I just want to save space. I'll figure something out so it's somewhere else. Right now, I just have the LA amp on the trunk floor, lol, which is probably why it went out. However, I've had it for a good 8 years or so and the sub's probably 10 years old...not bad for cheap crap.

 

Not bad. That equipment last you a long time.

 

I would mount the amp to a board, spaced out, and mount the board the underside of the rear deck. Its out of sight, and it save space.

 

You never did give me a budget for a sub. How much are you looking to spend, not including the box.

[white4d96]

Not bad. That equipment last you a long time.

 

I would mount the amp to a board, spaced out, and mount the board the underside of the rear deck. Its out of sight, and it save space.

 

You never did give me a budget for a sub. How much are you looking to spend, not including the box.

 

If you're going to mount the amp like that though I would check with the company first to see if the amp will like that. My old crap Sony, my MTX, and my Kicker all had explicit warnings in the manuals that they would not cool properly upside down and that thermal failure could result.

 

Of course, if you mean like making a shelf/cubbyhole type thing that would hold the amp right side up, forget what I said

[pwmin]

Not bad. That equipment last you a long time.

 

I would mount the amp to a board, spaced out, and mount the board the underside of the rear deck. Its out of sight, and it save space.

 

You never did give me a budget for a sub. How much are you looking to spend, not including the box.

I'd have to see how that would work w/ the STB...where to put it.

 

Sorry, forgot. I really don't have a budget...just as cheap as I can go. I'd like to spend $300 for sub/amp, but I can probably go a little more as that's probably not feasable unless I go Planet Audio RX sub and PA amp or something like that (which would actually be less than that). I could just get the amp for now and then get the sub later, but I need to make sure I get the right amp for the sub I'm going to want to get.

[pwmin]

guess I really didn't answer your question specifically yet...for the sub, I'd like something for $100, but there isn't too much good around for that and I really don't feel like looking for used, so probably $150, MAYBE $200

[Garrett Powered]

not to interfere with things here, but why not mount to the box? my box does not vibrate, the speaker does. If my box was vibrating I would consider that an entirely different problem.

 

I have pushed over a thousand watts through my sub and when I put my hand on the box I feel zero vibration. Its hard as concrete.

[xtremerevolution]

I'd have to see how that would work w/ the STB...where to put it.

 

Sorry, forgot. I really don't have a budget...just as cheap as I can go. I'd like to spend $300 for sub/amp, but I can probably go a little more as that's probably not feasable unless I go Planet Audio RX sub and PA amp or something like that (which would actually be less than that). I could just get the amp for now and then get the sub later, but I need to make sure I get the right amp for the sub I'm going to want to get.

 

Here's the sub I recommend:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-460

 

It competes well with the more expensive IDQ V3 on a few fronts, and while it doesn't sound quite as good, its more bang for the buck for sure. Its a huge favorite on diyma and is very well built. You'll need ~350w RMS at 4 ohms to power this. If in the future you want to upgrade, you can add a second sub.

 

guess I really didn't answer your question specifically yet...for the sub, I'd like something for $100, but there isn't too much good around for that and I really don't feel like looking for used, so probably $150, MAYBE $200

 

See above.

 

not to interfere with things here, but why not mount to the box? my box does not vibrate, the speaker does. If my box was vibrating I would consider that an entirely different problem.

 

I have pushed over a thousand watts through my sub and when I put my hand on the box I feel zero vibration. Its hard as concrete.

 

Because the box vibrates no matter what you do. Its a bad idea, period. I bought a Directed 1000D from Slick on this forum, which used to belong to an owner who mounted it to his box. Not more than a couple of months into using it, the switches and knobs start to get finicky. I took it apart, and found that several parts were loose due to excessive vibration and shock. I wedged in pieces of wood to keep it working till one day it just went up in smoke. That was a while ago, but if I knew now what I knew then, I might have tried to fix it instead of tossing it out. Live and learn I guess.

 

Point is, you will never see a professional install with the amp mounted to the box because of this very reason. Its risky at best even if you bolt down the box and brace the hell out of it. There's no purpose for it, at all. If anything, it makes the sub even more difficult to remove from the trunk if you ever need the additional space because now you have to disconnect the power wire and the RCA's. Its much easier to disconnect the speaker wires.

 

If you don't feel any vibrations when you're putting power through your sub, something is severely wrong. I feel a back massage when I crank my sub. Was the sub on when you put your hand on it? (I'm sort of joking)

 

Seriously, you want the amp mounted as far away as is convenient from the source of the vibration. Its not a risk that's worth taking, and there is absolutely no benefit to it. Its also much easier to steal if all you have to do is snip two wires.

 

But, if you HAVE to do it that way for some unknown reason, there are ways to reduce risks.

 

Buy this:

http://www.raamaudio.com/products/Ensolite-IUO-Peel-and-Stick.html

 

I've had considerable success with this technique using Ensolite. Specifically, I take a piece of MDF, make a nice board to mount the amps, then put Ensolite on BOTH sides of the MDF, matching the shape of the board. Then, of course carpet the board. At that point, I mount the board to the enclosure, and leave the screws just barely tight, not fully slammed down to the box. Certainly strong enough to not rip out, but loose enough to eliminate any vibration transfer. Try it!

 

BTW, I did this with my own enclosure, which was a Fiberglass tub bottom w/ a flat MDF board on top, then using this Ensolite technique I've managed to keep vibrations from affecting the tube amps.

 

So if you're willing to spend more money than you originally did to protect your amp, by all means do it, but if I were you I'd mount the amp somewhere out of sight with ample airflow, such as under the rear deck.

[Garrett Powered]

well then if there is no vibration then I am all good. just thought I would ask because at first you sounded all militant about it. but good thing he isn't going to need a professional to do it then, because he is more of a DIY guy I think. and no professional would ever do that for him anyway...

 

 

 

yeah f-ing right.