alec_b Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Original parts lasted? Specifically "wear" items: ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, axles, pads/rotors, etc. I kind of got this idea after reading the Ford post and the conversation about the build quality between the early-mid nineties Taurus' and the same generation W. My last two w's both had over 150k miles and still had their original axles, ball joints, actually 99% of the suspension in both cars was OE and still in perfect shape save for a few dried out bushings. I have never seen any Taurus of any vintage that can go 150k miles on OE, factory installed suspension components. It seems to me that there's a lot of things that GM did right in the design of the suspension components of the W cars. Needless to say I'd take a W over a Taurus, any day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 IMHO first gen balljoints, tie rods, ends are undersized for the car they are on. my z34 I changed out everything at 85,000 miles, not all was necessary but most was shot, struts were totally gone. my old euro 3.4 still has its OEM BJs but everything else has been changed I'm not overly impressed but it may be a north vs south thing too the salt really deals a hurting on anything suspension wise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 I have regularly seen 1st Gen w-bodies go past 200,000 miles without an issue on original ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, axles, etc. The roads are generally in good condition in the Southeast and we have no salt/rust to deal with here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 the original drums/shoes on the 95 MC lasted to ~150,000 miles, but had to be replaced when i killed a brake line about 60 miles from home in the middle of the night and had to use the ebrake to stop.... otherwise, they might still be running on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Original Tie rod ends on the lumina when it was junked. 103k miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloChick Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) Let's see.. Ball joints at 105k Tie rods (inner, outer) at about 65k Struts, mounts at 70k Rear drums at 85k Wiper motor is on it's way out now LIM gaskets at 95k Upper rad hose at 100k Exhaust piping at the cat (with the cat and back) at 103k Fuel pump at 106k O2 sensors at 104k VATS was fubar at 60k Starter at 107k Radiator at103k and I'm probably missing some things Edited May 25, 2011 by MonteCarloChick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Original ball joints on my 89 lasted around 190k miles when I swapped out the front knuckle assemblies for 95+ Monte ones. They seemed good enough that I put genuine Delco BJs on the replacement knuckles. Outer tierods, still original at 220k. Inner tierods, one original. The other I had to replace because it was loose from hitting a curb. I'm sure it would still be good today if I hadn't slid into that curb. Starter lasted 210k before it went intermittent in hot weather. I replaced it last year. O2 sensor still original. Fuel pump lasted to around 190k. Radiator still original. AC compressor still original and cooling fantastically! Actually, entire AC system is still original. Struts had well over 100k when replaced. Really, everything seems to last a good long time on that car. Only things I have to replace with any regularity are the alternator, power steering pump, and water pump. I've done all of those multiple times, but I've had the car a LONG time and those parts last many, many years before needing to be replaced again. I'm quite positive an 89 Taurus would have needed more care and feeding in the 17yrs I've had my 89 Cutlass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 also, water pump on MC went to hell at 40,000 miles, since then, it's replacement has worked well. alternator was replaced mistakenly, and the cheapie AZ replacement only lasted ~2 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 On the old Lumina: Struts: 120k ball joints: OEM tie rod ends: 60k, 120k Rear brakes before 94+ swap: every oil change rear parking brake cable: every other oil change wheel bearings: OEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloChick Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Oh yeah, leak somewhere in the AC system at 70k, new steering rack at 107k and a new water pump at 108k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Knock on wood, but most everything on my Lumina is original. Brake pads shoes of course have been changed (no idea on mileage), alternator was changed by previous owner, original battery finally died in 2007, some type of intake gasket went out (I wasn't into cars as much at the time, so I don't remember what exactly it was..about 130k), a/c compressor at about 120k... But as far as suspension goes, it's all original. Bushings look pretty whomped out, but they're still ok. Although now I'm starting to replace some ignition items to solve my hesitation/surging issue, but so far what I've replaced hasn't been the culprit. (Speed sensor, TPS) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npfd Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 hey, this is a list of some of the stuff we did, mileage in KMs if not year.. 97 cs rear shocks mounts 5 years old, again at 160k km, tie rods, ball joints at 135K, again ball joints 179k. fuel pump, 7 years, and again at 12 years due to top plate rusting, gas tank at the same time. Front struts changed twice, I think back in 2004, even used GM parts for the first set, second time we did it last year. LIM 2006. wheel bearing, 02 sensor 2007 Water Pump 2009, now again... Plus lots of other things haha... edit, I prefer W over Taurus.. haven't driven one... but just generally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 What's still original on my GP? Um... ... uh... the rack? Aaaaaand that's about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_b Posted May 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 What's still original on my GP? Um... ... uh... the rack? Aaaaaand that's about it Hahaha awesome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Yeah, I think the trans may be original too but not for long Otherwise, motor was trash when I got it, did brakes all around, rear calipers, master cylinder, rear struts, fronts coming soon, ball joints (after one separated on me right when I graduated ) rear bumper, brace, and light bar have been replaced, header panel too (by one of the PO's) Almost all the interior by me...etc etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 (edited) 92 Euro 3.4 Had repetitive problems with front rotors warping with ONE hard stop from highway speed. GM rotors cut at least once, maybe twice. North American aftermarket rotors installed and cut at least once. Problem didn't go away until I installed NAPA performance rotors; but they're not available any more--been superceded by Chinese junk rotors. Front pads replaced at least twice, rear pads replaced once. Front brake hoses at 112K, rear brake hoses at 116K Repaired wiring harness from RF wheel speed sensor around 112K. Brake booster (piss-poor stopping power) and manifold-to-booster vacuum hose (completely rotted but holding vacuum) Thermostat stuck open, replaced around 80K LIM gaskets at about 80K Timing belts at 60K and then again at maybe 70K or 80K due to edge wear. Replaced again at about 114K because I was in the mood. Driver's side window switch replaced under warranty. Leaf spring pads replaced at 116K or thereabouts Windshield replaced at about 100K; had cracked from stone chip (I could have lived with that) but also had a billion little pits from gravel and sand. Driver's side radiator fan motor 93 Euro 3.4 Bought at 112K--no service history prior to that except the windshield was new and perfect (but cheap 'n' crappy Chinese glass was completely ruined within six months) Brake booster (piss-poor stopping power) and manifold-to-booster vacuum hose (was in good condition, but replaced it "just because") along with cutting front and rear rotors, and brake pads all around. Rear brake hoses. Replaced front rotors at about 150K due to steering wheel shake. Didn't make much difference. Still working on that problem. Leaf spring pads LIM gaskets Heater blower motor O2 sensor (Needs exhaust from converter back, but I'm not doing that any time soon.) Both cars: The usual tires, filters, fluids, bulbs, DOOR HANDLES, etc. Overall, REMARKABLY reliable. Edited May 29, 2011 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_b Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Boy it really seems like these cars hold together well. Like I said with the monte right now, 183k and almost all the components I can see are original. I know the trans has been replaced but that seems to be one of the more common issues. LIM's have been replaced, again no shock. Tie rods, ball joints, and struts are original. Almost everything on the engine looks more or less original besides the gaskets and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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