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LQ1 Timing Belt


z34mightymachine

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I just called the Dealer here in Montreal, and the cost for the timing hydraulic actuator is $211.75. That is just crazy!!!!

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I reused mine, and it failed a few hundred miles later. If you're doing it yourself and are comfortable with the possibility of doing it again, go for it, but if you really want the peace of mind, definitely get a new one. If I ever have to do the job again (or especially if I have to pay to have it done), I WILL be getting a new one

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I reused mine, and it failed a few hundred miles later.

ANYTHING "can" fail. Seems to me you were either unlucky or you damaged the part when you wound it back in. It's a mechanism with a spring, the parts are bathed in oil, and doesn't move much anyway. Again, not a high-failure or high-wear item.

 

I've got a pair of 3.4s, I put timing belts on both of them; and one car has had two belts replaced by the Stealership; although one of those only went about ten thousand miles and was replaced again due to edge-wear. The other car I got at 112,000 miles, I don't know the service history prior to my ownership.

 

I suppose that's two cars, and something like three timing belts each--original, first replacement, second replacement. I've never bought an actuator. Still going strong at 125K and 150K miles.

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I'm not arguing that they can last if reused, I'm just saying that if I was paying to have it done, I'd rather err on the safe side and spend the $80. If it dies fail, you're still out $80, and then another timing job

 

:thumbsup:

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my old z34 barfed its actuator, I did one last year that had the same thing happen. 66% of the timing belt jobs I've done are due to actuator failure. that is enough that I'll replace it every time.

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^ I agree with Chris.

 

Although I'll go a bit further and say that it isn't just the actuator itself, but the mounting plate as well. On mine, the bushing had seized to the actuator, which I believe started the cascade of failures that culminated in bent valves. For the work involved in the job, and the price of those parts, I think it would be foolish not to change them too.

 

Heck, on many cars, the standard procedure is to replace the water pump when changing the t-belt whether it is actually needed or not. I believe the rationale is that the risk of it failing and requiring another t-belt change doesn't outweigh the cost savings.

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On a lot of cars, the timing belt drives the water pump, so it makes sense to replace the pump when doing the belt.

 

On the LQ1, my rationale was to change EVERYTHING when I did the belt. Mostly, because I had no idea how old the parts were, since I had owned the car for only a short time before it barfed the belt (bad idler pulley bearing).

 

Now that I know EXACTLY how old those components are, I'd be more likely to reuse timing components on my next belt change---maybe. :roll:

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On a lot of cars, the timing belt drives the water pump, so it makes sense to replace the pump when doing the belt.

 

Exactly my point. It would suck to have to go back and do the job all over again because you tried to save a few bucks, and didn't replace a component that was easy to to get at during the job.

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Precisely. The main reason mine failed in the first place was that the previous owner apparently reused components, and replaced only the belt. One of the idler pulley bearings was bad, got hot, melted the plastic idler, and dumped the timing belt. Fortunately, it did so in my driveway, at idle. So other than the mess, no engine damage occurred. When I did my belt I replaced EVERYTHING. I figure a tow bill costs about what the acuator and mounting plate cost.

 

I did, however, save the old actuator and mounting plate, just in case. Parts for the LQ1 are beginning to get a bit hard to come by. At the time I did my timing belt, only 6 dealers actually stocked the actuator mounting plate, and the dealer told me that many of the engine parts for the LQ1 are being discontinued. My thinking was BUY IT NOW, while they're still available. The next timing belt change may force me to reuse parts, I'd rather those parts be a couple of years old, rather than a couple of decades old.

 

Exactly my point. It would suck to have to go back and do the job all over again because you tried to save a few bucks, and didn't replace a component that was easy to to get at during the job.
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