bronze93 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 Okay, so I've replaced the subframe bushings, stabilizer bushings, outer tie rods, all new power steering hoses, tires, and steering rack. The problem is I still have steering play. It has about an inch of play in the steering wheel. I've adjusted the preload on the rack but it still has play. I checked the column and intermediate shaft but it all is good. If I have someone move the steering wheel I can feel the intermediate shaft move at the rack. Did I get a bad rack or is there an adjustment that needs to be made? As always thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Did you get a new rack or a salvage one? Factory ones have a problem with the pinion bearing falling apart and you get a ton of play in the rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 The rack I bought was a new rebuilt one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 rack mounting bolts tight? Look for play in the rear subframe bushings as someone saws back and forth on the steering wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Did a little checking on it this weekend. the rack bolts are tight and no play in the bushings. I tightened down on the adjustment bolt and set the car on the ground. The steering stiffened up to the point of not returning to center when cornering but still had play in the steering wheel. So I adjusted it back to the original setting and still have play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Were you able to get this issue resolved? Sounds to me like a defective steering rack. Did it come with new inner tie rods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Nope never did get it fixed. I called the company and they said to adjust it. Yes it did come with new tie rods. I'm going to have to call them again and see what they'll do for a replacement. I don't feel I got the right rack to begin with because mine should have 2 3/4 lock to lock and this one is 3 1/8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Nope never did get it fixed. I called the company and they said to adjust it. Yes it did come with new tie rods. I'm going to have to call them again and see what they'll do for a replacement. I don't feel I got the right rack to begin with because mine should have 2 3/4 lock to lock and this one is 3 1/8. Yeah that definitely doesn't sound right. I assume you've already checked underneath the car for component movement while someone else wiggles the steering wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Yeah I checked that as well as at the intermediate shaft from the column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Yeah I checked that as well as at the intermediate shaft from the column. If absolutely nothing is moving underneath your car when your steering wheel is wobbled left and right, then you've got a defective steering rack. I can't possibly think of it being anything else. I have two bad inner tie rods and I don't have that much play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Are you absolutely sure beyond a doubt that you have the pinch bolt on the lower end of the column that secures the column to the racks input spline tight? I find it hard to accept that a fresh rack can have slop between the worm & pinion, there is a preload on the pinion that is set at the manufacturers. Do you get this sloppy response at the steering wheel when the engine is Not running, running, or both?..(front wheels off the ground) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 The pinch bolt is tight. The slop is when the car is on the ground running or not running. I picked up a rack at the salvage yard this weekend. It has the 2 3/4 lock to lock and low steering ratio with the pressure switch. The manufacture of the one that is in the car said they would pay shipping both ways and rebuild it for free. While I was there I also picked up the intermediate shaft pinch bolt to pinch bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Well, I trust you will get this sorted out. It's a pain in the ass for you as you have to do this procedure twice. I hope you will get a full refund on the faulty rack that you purchased over the counter as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Hey, just remembered about this thread. I have to replace my steering rack on my car and will be doing the job tonight and tomorrow night. Any advice you can give me on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Jack the front of the car and support with jack stands. Remove the tires. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. Disconnect the sensor wire connected to the rack. Disconnect the intermediate shaft. Lower the rear of the subframe. If the steering heat shield is still there and never been removed before, I found it easier to remove the 2 rear front stabilizer brackets and then remove the 2 bolts for the shield. Remove the tie rod ends from the a-arms. Remove the bolts from the rack. Remove the power steering lines. Reverse the process for installation. Also, when I install the heat shield I only put 1 bolt back in that way I don't have to remove the stabilizer brackets. Only 1 of the bolts is inaccessible with the stabilizer in the way. If think that covers everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Jack the front of the car and support with jack stands. Remove the tires. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. Disconnect the sensor wire connected to the rack. Disconnect the intermediate shaft. Lower the rear of the subframe. If the steering heat shield is still there and never been removed before, I found it easier to remove the 2 rear front stabilizer brackets and then remove the 2 bolts for the shield. Remove the tie rod ends from the a-arms. Remove the bolts from the rack. Remove the power steering lines. Reverse the process for installation. Also, when I install the heat shield I only put 1 bolt back in that way I don't have to remove the stabilizer brackets. Only 1 of the bolts is inaccessible with the stabilizer in the way. If think that covers everything. Thanks! How long did it take you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 The first time it took maybe 3 hrs but with as much practice as I'm getting it doesn't take that long and everything is not rusted. The bigger problem that I got is I blew up the trans on Saturday. So when the replacement rack that I'm getting rebuilt comes back I'll replace the trans and rack at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 The first time it took maybe 3 hrs but with as much practice as I'm getting it doesn't take that long and everything is not rusted.The bigger problem that I got is I blew up the trans on Saturday. So when the replacement rack that I'm getting rebuilt comes back I'll replace the trans and rack at the same time. Sounds good. Are there cars that have a more sporty turning ratio than others? I wouldn't mind upgrading if its an option. Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 TGPs got 2.25 ratio rack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 TGPs got 2.25 ratio rack Will that fit on my 95 Regal, and will it be readily available at the auto store? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronze93 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 I know there is at least a 2.75 turn to turn and a 3.125 turn to turn for 94 and 95. Do you have the power steering sensor on yours? Also, there is a low steering ratio and a standard steering ratio. The rack that I picked up at the JY had the low steering ratio with 2.75 turn to turn and the sensor. It came from a 92. Compnine will show all the years a rack will fit and from what cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Will that fit on my 95 Regal, and will it be readily available at the auto store? I believe August (addicted2bass) just bought one from a parts store no problem, just make sure you order the sport rack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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