Fixing door lock problems.

[jman093]

There is a common problem with the door lock problems on 1st gen w-bodies where the door lock actuator operates but does not lock or unlock the door (and often times the door won't work really well from the interior lock knob as well). This problem comes up in threads every once in awhile and I just had a member PM me in my part-out thread to sell him the door lock actuators, so I'm making a thread. New door lock actuators will not fix this problem, or if they do it is usually only temporary and they will go back to doing the same thing. If the actuators are moving in and out electrically, they are most likely OK. There is a common problem with these older style actuator systems GM used from the 70s through the 90s in that something in the linkages or the latch that gets too much slack. I'm not exactly sure what or why they get like this.

 

Here's the easy fix though:

 

On a w-body remove the door panel, and find this metal pivot piece the door lock actuator attaches to. First take a pliers and squeeze the tangs that are covered in rubber so that they are closer together. They can only be squeezed so much, so then take 2 zipties and tie 1 around each of the tangs. All we are doing is taking up the large gap in this pivot so that the lock rod doesn't have to move so damn far before it is actually moving anything on the latch. It is also a good idea to lube up everything while you have the door panel off. Lube the pivot piece in the picture, put some grease on the channels the lock rods run in and also lube up the latch mechanism really well inside the door. You could also lube up your window regulator and guides and get your window to move faster while you're in the door. To reinstall your panel, it is always a good idea to get new clips. These can be purchased cheaply at any auto parts store usually out in the aisles somewhere sold in small packs, just take an old one and match it up.

 

 

I have no idea why these systems were designed with that large gap in the pivot piece, but I have fixed several doors with this problem. Strangely my 96 GTP with 200,000 miles on it still works ok, but neither door of either the 90 GP SE in the picture or my 87 Monte Carlo (which has that same actuator & system design GM used for 20 years) had working power door locks, but all the actuators operated. Performing this repair fixed the lock problems, no purchasing of actuators required. I hope this helps some of you as well.

 

 

EDIT: I'm unsure where my original pic went. I get PM's about this thread all the time asking for the picture. New ones are up courtesy of Dave (crazyd). Thanks!

 

EDIT 10/2014: I wanted to briefly mention a couple things to anyone who reads this thread as I still sometimes get PM's on it. First is that my description and the original pictures were from a 96 which I think was slightly different than earlier first gens and the one in pictures from Dave. The yellow rubberized pieces don't really squeeze together that much like I make out in the description using my old 96 and it confused some people. To counter this on my 90 TGP this last weekend, I piled more zipties, lol. Working great all week. Use 3 or four if you have to. Still try to squeeze them as much as you can though. And remember as I said above: LUBRICATE EVERYTHING. The pivot, where the rods slide, and all over the latch assembly in the door where the rod attaches.

 

 

The second thing I wanna add is another common problem I've noticed on first gen GP locks (and it may exist on other first gens, IDK). Even when the locks work now electrically, and works with the key in the door as well, they often still won't unlock pushing the manual slider inside. Even with the mod above the slider doesn't seem to move enough to get it unlocked. This is because it doesn't. It does have a little bit of wiggle room though. Loosen the screw up a lot for the bezel piece that holds the lock slider and push the bezel forward as much as possible and tighten the screw back down. The piece can usually move forward a little and will now unlock the door after doing this. The natural position they want to tighten down in without pushing on them doesn't ever seem to be a position where they can get the door unlocked. Figured I'd share.

Edited October 28, 2014 by jman093

[EviLette]

Hey - thanks. Someone needs to sticky this! My door locks both move via the arm/disarm (lock/unlock) button on my fob, as they are power locks, and do MOVE, but they do not actuate far enough to lock the doors. They haven't worked properly in years, ergo one of the reasons I had an alarm system installed. I will have to try this - been needing to get into the door panels anyhow and lubricate the window channels again, as well as some other crap.

 

Owait. it is a sticky. FML! Mods - delete this if it doesn't belong. Too many overtime hours, too much stress, not enough sleep... or chocolate.

Edited May 17, 2011 by EviLette