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still have driver side water leak on floor pan


npfd

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For about 2 months now I've been tackling water leaks on this freaking car, from the rear window, to two places in the trunk, resealing the cowl, then tried sealing the steering column bracket from inside the car, and still there is water pooling on the driver side floor pan.

 

I think it may be coming from the base area of the floor pan. There is some rubber like material that covers the metal just behind and below the gas and brake pedal. Is it possible that water seeps out from below this? water seems to be pooling in this area. Before I felt it on the firewall itself, but now it seems like its from the base, as the carpet on the floor looks wet while the one behind the pedals is dry.

 

Is it better to use fiberglass, or keep using RTV? I think I'm running out....

 

The car is a 97 Cutlass Supreme Sedan....

 

Thanks.

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I just went through this exact same thing with a lesabre. I know it's an H body, but it turns out the car had been hit almost square in the LF quarter right below the a pillar. It was fixed pretty well, but a seam BEHIND the inner wheel well shield had been split open and was leaking water into the footwell. I closed it with a hammer and special 2-part epoxy that the body shop provided (which, according to the owner, will glue a car TO the concrete after it sets. He tried).

 

Worth a shot to look.

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Thanks Alec_b,

 

I'm thinking maybe it could be from there, I may have a look at it next weekend. I know when I redid the cowl, water stopped accumulated behind the pedals. Now its on on the base.

Worst case, I may just seal up the edges of that plastic like material from inside the car, I'm hoping this could be enough? I'm afraid it may be a seam, if there one, near the fresh air vent on the cowl.

BTW the pillars are rusting...

 

This epoxy sounds intense.... I just got the regular RTV, or should I use fiberglass for the rubber parts?

Honestly, this car has been knocked around, as in taken heavy hits to blow struts, balljoints and bent rims, on the LF, maybe in the process something happened.

 

Thanks again for your insight...

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hehe cool, thanks.. I hope it does the trick, at the base of the ban where that rubber stuff meets. If not I'm screwed, I've already gotten comments for putting too much RTV on the car haha, the issue soon is that I'm gonna run out!

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hehe RTV is cheaper, unfortunately I think its on its last year or two with the Olds.

 

I poked around some more, and it seems like the leak in the trunk, is along the side, underneath the gas cap filler, and where the wheel well is making it tight access to seal it up. I tried using a stick and RTV, but it got real messy.... I'm thinking of doing the same but with fiberglass? Oh ya, there is rust on the bottom of the panel where the gas filler is.

 

Also the C pillar still leaks on the inside. Looks like it leaks on the inside trim, then channels to the rear seat carpet.. I don't really understand why, we removed the top weatherstripping, caulked it with urethane, and along the sides too. Then put the outside trim piece on, and seal up parts of it with RTV..... can't be from the screws screw in? I think they are too low... from where the leak is coming in from inside.. I think hehe..

 

Thanks.

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so the driver side was still wet after applying RTV, so I removed it, since it was easy to take off, and dump body filler short strand. I don't think I should have done that as now it smells pretty bad in the car... I might have to remove it.... or will it be okay?

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