Laveen Z34 Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 Changed the radiator since it had a crack. Band new. all hoses replaced including t-stat. flushed and refilled with both bleeders open and engine off. no coolant leaked out of either bleeders and coolant level at filler neck already. closed bleeders and engine turned on with heater on MAX. Bleeders opened again and right away coolant leaked out from the one close to the brake booster, the one by the block/t-stat housing - none. After few minutes, RPM goes up and down and coolant pushing out of filler neck and puking it out in massive content. Turned off engine. What's the problem here? is it lower intake gasket? or do i need to back flush? and Service Engine Soon light now is on... Quote
joecutlass Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 I think when you bleed the system, the way I did it just on Sunday. Fill the rad and the overflow. Put the cap back on. Run hot, shut off, and bleed thermostat has to open in order to bleed the thermostat housing. The other bleeder should be the water pump bleeder. Bleed that first, then after the car reaches normal operating temp, (thermostat open) bleed the thermostat housing. Quote
Thundernuts1979 Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 was it an AutoZone T stat? sounds like it could be blocked or stuck..I had many problems with em from there at my shop..just a thought Quote
Galaxie500XL Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 I had similar problems with my LQ1 a year ago. Turned out the water pump was not moving water all that well, leading to pockets of overheated water in the system, and an inability to "burp" the system. Quote
Laveen Z34 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Posted May 5, 2011 Well, I am done of beating my head against the wall and expenses mounting up. My car has 175K, body is 9/10 - paint is all it needs, tires with about 75% thread left and interior is something I can turn into something, tranny no problem that I can think or feel - it shifts smoothly on each gear. I'm taking it in to the shop and have 'em check them out. 1st stage to fix - gaskets, water pump, timing belt, and cooling system and possibly new plugs and wires since I see that it's still stock wires. Quote
AL Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 I am guessing since he said timing belt, the LQ1 Quote
Crazy K Posted May 11, 2011 Report Posted May 11, 2011 I think you're premature. it takes a bit to get the system bleed, and sometimes you have to keep trying and repeat. keep your eye on the temp gauge while you do it, too. Quote
Addicted to eaton Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 fill with fluid run car with heat on high till it starts getting hot. Stop. pop hood, and crank a bleeder valve (both) close them when it stops spraying out then repeat 2-3 times. When i first fill a car up i used a 2 ltr bottle to keep the coolant higher then the motor. And have someone squeeze the return hose to get bubbles out! Quote
PoorRichradsGTP Posted June 4, 2011 Report Posted June 4, 2011 Could you eplain what you mean about using a 2 liter bottle? Quote
xtremerevolution Posted June 6, 2011 Report Posted June 6, 2011 Could you eplain what you mean about using a 2 liter bottle? I imagine he means an empty soda bottle. Quote
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