Anyone have good advice for buffing/polishing?

[virtuetovice]

I just painted the Cutlass and now I'm ready to polish/buff. The paint is a little bumpy[orange peel].

 

Does anyone have any advice as far as buffing? What kind of rubbing compound should I use? I know I'll need something on the rougher side but is anyone getting really good results from a particular brand? Thanks in advance for any input.

[94 olds vert]

Well, for new paint I wouldn't buff it or polish it for 30-90 days. Depending on how much time it takes to cure. You could use something that has carnuaba wax. That is good for new paint and will help it really shine. But I would apply it by hand.

[carkhz316]

Really depends on how bad the orange peel is. BUT, if we had it where I work, I'd start out with 1500 on a DA; or 2000 by hand to cut down the orange peel. Then, 3000 if the paint has been done for awhile (anything after a few days the paint starts hardening up pretty well; you'll use way more sandpaper and compound) Once again, depending on how low it's bee since spraying, (I'm going to assume its been sitting for awhile) I'd start with a wool pad on your choice of buffer. I use on of those large Dewalt angle grinders/ buffers. They're great as they have a variable speed setting via a dial and the trigger also varies the spin RPMs. The compound we use is the Wizards 1-step time-release cutting compound; but you can honestly use any type of cutting compound. Then, finish off with a foam bad with your choice of finishing polish/ glaze. Be prepared for about a dozen other ways to do it, but this is what works for me and the shop I work at and yields show-car quality results. Good luck!

[carkhz316]

You DON'T actually have to wait long to start any type of cutting and buffing. The longer you wait will just be that much harder and you'll use twice the amount of paper and compound. You also need to be careful of what wax you use. Most carnuaba waxes should be safe, but you'll want to use a "breatheable" wax if you apply it before that ~60-90 day wait. If you don't wait; or use a cheap wax, it won't let the solvents "breathe" out and you'll get what is referred to dyeback; or even solvent popping.

Edited April 28, 2011 by carkhz316

[virtuetovice]

Thanks for the info. I have some 1500 grit, but only a vibrating square sander. So I should be able to move straight from a 1500 grit sanding to buffing if the orange peel isn't TOO TOO bad?

[carkhz316]

1500 will leave some deeper scratches that will may be difficult to cut out, even with a wool pad. It won't hurt to try, but it will take you longer/ use more compound to take those 1500 scratches out.

[mrl390]

You dont have to use a sander if you dont have the proper one. Just use a wetsanding block and do it by hand. It will take longer but will be nice and straight. 1500 should be fine to start with, but definately dont finish with it. Anything under 2000 is pretty time consuming to buff out and can leave you will sandscratches in the paint even after the panel is shiny.

[carkhz316]

^True about finishing with 2000. You can finish just fine with 2000 or finer. If you still have 2000 grit scratches in the clear, you need to buff with cutting compound some more. I do agree you shouldn't try to buff 1500. I only mentioned it previously being doable because most of the compound manufacturer say it can, but realistically, it's a bitch. The only difference is that when sanding with a DA with a certain grit; it will yield a slightly finer sanding finish closer to a higher grit if you were doing it by hand. In short: 1500 on a DA is closer to ~ 2000 by hand. I know this probably doesn't make sense, but trust me, its true. You can see for yourself if you want to try. Also, I do recommend doing it by hand with 2000 or finer if you are inexperienced.

Edited April 29, 2011 by carkhz316

[virtuetovice]

So...in short lots and lots of sanding.

 

Let's see if I got the basic idea

1. Sanding block with 2000 grit sandpaper, use 1500 on any heavier irregularities

2. Cutting compound with a wool pad

3. Polishing compound with a foam pad

4. ???

5. Profit?!

[94 olds vert]

5. Keep it cause it looks so damn good now.

[virtuetovice]

I had planned on keeping it till the wheels fell off

 

 

 

...then supergluing them back on and driving it until it rusts away.

[iroc2]

thankyou for a new sig

 

at work what i do is once im done wet sanding (3M super fine and micro fine wetsanding pads) by hand, then 800, 1500, and finish it off with glaze wiht the buffer. we have one of those dewalt angle grinder/buffers and with a variable trigger and no dial like carkhz316 was referencing. personally i prefer the variable trigger over the dial and trigger

 

right now were using ardex high def 2 glaze/wax (< BEST compound/glaze ive EVER used. i can post some pics if anyone is interested) and after the glaze/wax then the ardex sealant

Edited May 2, 2011 by iroc2

[carkhz316]

^Yes. I would like to see what you use. I'm only used to using Wizards and 3M stuff.

[94 olds vert]

[iroc2]

ya weve used the 3m finesse it light and dark swirl. that was pretty good, the dark swirl was my favorite on black cars till i used the ardex. i can post pics of hte ardex high def, and the 3m dark swirl tonight. all are cell phone pics so quality will suck

[iroc2]

make sure you use a clay bar before buffing it out. it will make the final wax so much better and very smooth paint to go with all the work you just did

 

heres the pics: http://s827.photobucket.com/albums/zz199/iroc2/buff/

 

***the white lines on the black car are to show the difference (before/after)

***the black lines on the white car are to show the difference (before/after)

 

-on the black car only 3m finesse it dark swirl was used

 

-on the white car only ardex high def. #2 was used (the white car didnt have any clear coat, a red car with the same issue has been done before, 6 months ago, using the ardex and i just did it again and before i did it was till in good condition and doing it again only helped it stay that way. one of the techs in the shop did his 3 cars and van with it, he was very happy wiht the results, the owner did jhis lawn tractor and was also very impressed with it)

[Andrew]

[Chvcmrrcr1969]

Might I also inform you that when wet sanding and buffing, stay away from corners and edges. you could tape them off with masking tape to prevent yourself from sanding them.

[lowminitruckin]

use 1500 grit sandpaper to get the dirt out the go over that with 3000 grit use it wet and then use 3m extra cut compound then polish good luck i sand and buff cars at a body shop

[lowminitruckin]

use 1500 grit sandpaper to get the dirt out the go over that with 3000 grit use it wet and then use 3m extra cut compound then polish good luck i sand and buff cars at a body shop

[Grand Moff Joseph]

Also, keep the buffer on the lowest speed possible for all polishing. Switch to higher speed for applying the fine swirl remover and the final wax.

[LuminaPower92]

ya weve used the 3m finesse it light and dark swirl. that was pretty good, the dark swirl was my favorite on black cars till i used the ardex. i can post pics of hte ardex high def, and the 3m dark swirl tonight. all are cell phone pics so quality will suck

 

iroc if you use ardex, try that blue diamond crystal sometime. I love it on dark cars. Also i use Topaz in the canister from ardex. Awesome stuff, leaves a beautiful gloss.