urbex Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Posted May 23, 2011 Oh, ha ha ha. Well I'll just wait until my dad gets home to help me. At least I know one coil works! Quote
urbex Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Posted May 23, 2011 Just doing more brainstorming.... At one point when I first noticed the issue starting, I noticed that the cover over the PCM was not secured on, and I thought it looked like it may have been getting wet. Do you think that could be cause for issues like this? Like I fried something in there? Quote
white4d96 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Posted May 23, 2011 I have the same issue at any speed over like 50. If i'm holding steady and I add throttle, nothing. Sounds like I did nothing. Sometimes it will 'catch' after a few seconds and speed up, sometimes it won't until I throttle up more and TCC turns off. Quote
urbex Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Posted May 23, 2011 Yeah, that's it! Â GRRRRR!!! Â So I played with it today, nothing really. I guess like I said there is a TSB that also says the MAF can be the culprit... one way to check is to unplug and drive with it unhooked for a while, see if that takes care of it I guess. So, unhooked it and drove, it did the same thing but from stop signs, when I tried to make it do it around 50mph, nothing! It acted just like it should and drove fine at the speeds it normally acts up! So I was all excited! Hooked it back up, tried again, and I couldn't get it to do the hesitation. So, today the car is working fine, but yesterday it wasn't? This is why I'm thinking it's weather related... Today is very low air pressure and storms, yesterday was quite warm and muggy.... Quote
skitchin Posted May 23, 2011 Report Posted May 23, 2011 air intake sensor? whats that one called, IAT? could make car run rich/lean  My issue was a bit different, at 50 ish my car would jerk, first it was shifting between 3rd and OD, then after fixing the break switch, it was randomly missing, but not enough to trigger the dummy light. Quote
urbex Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Posted May 23, 2011 (edited) Hmm... I should look into the IAT...but the only thing, is it never stalls or even acts like it's going to stall... Â Another thing though, is I have no loss in fuel economy either... Edited May 23, 2011 by urbex Quote
urbex Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Posted May 23, 2011 What should the ignition advance be on this engine? I've seen online that a knock sensor can go bad and throw it off, and that could cause hesitations like I'm experiencing.... I have a OBDII scanner and it says the ignition timing, but I don't know where it's supposed to be? Either at idle or while driving? Quote
urbex Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Posted May 24, 2011 I'm thinking the next thing to do is buy a damn OHM meter... Otherwise, it's just a crapshoot guess as what to replace or check next. I suppose I'll keep fiddling with it, see if I can find it, and just pretty much wait until it gets worse that it finally throws a code. Why can't it just give me a damn code to tell me what's wrong?! Quote
urbex Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Posted May 24, 2011 Well, the car ran fine again today... So, I guess that's a good thing, but bad since I haven't done anything to fix it... I did take my OBDII scanner and had it plugged in so I could see the live data. The only thing, I wasn't sure how to read some stuff. Like I would have thought the second o2 sensor value should have been a lot lower than the first... say the first was about .8, the second would be .6. I guess I figured it'd be lower. And what exactly should the timing advance be? It's reading around 30 degrees, and I just thought that seems kind of high... Quote
AL Posted May 25, 2011 Report Posted May 25, 2011 The 02 sensor will read between .1 and .9... If you see it go below .2 and above .8, its still working as it should... .2 is lean and .8 is rich, so it will bounce back and forth between them... Sometimes it will be in the middle also... But I also think its a coil Quote
urbex Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Posted May 25, 2011 Well, all the coils are sparking, and visibly they look ok, no corrosion or anything... I suppose I could just try some different ones out (Matt's) and see if that does the trick. Quote
urbex Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Posted May 26, 2011 Perhaps this is why my car is acting up? Â I know I probably shouldn't be red lining it like this, but it's fun to go fast! Â Â And I probably shouldn't do that when it's over 200 degrees outside!!!! Â Â Quote
skitchin Posted May 26, 2011 Report Posted May 26, 2011 Does that last pic show IAT @ 25 degrees? Quote
urbex Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Posted May 26, 2011 Does that last pic show IAT @ 25 degrees? Â Nope. 259 degrees! Quote
19Cutlass94 Posted May 26, 2011 Report Posted May 26, 2011 10,684RPM... am I reading that right? Quote
urbex Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Posted May 26, 2011 You are correct... 10,684RPM! Â Those 3100 engines are really durable!! Â Ha ha...when I shut the car off for some reason the scanner read all this, so I laughed and had to take a picture! Quote
skitchin Posted May 26, 2011 Report Posted May 26, 2011 Huh that's weird, the edges to those pictures were cropped when I was reading @ work on my lunch break. So I'm guessing those numbers can't be right? That or you've got one hell of a wicked Lumina pushing out 10k RPM all while not melting XD Â **Was writing when you replied ^ Quote
urbex Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Posted May 26, 2011 Yeah, I don't know why it did that...but I thought it was funny! Quote
urbex Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Posted May 26, 2011 30* near idle is normal for a 3x00. Â Oh, is it? Great! For some reason I was initially thinking it should be closer to 0, but then I wasn't sure if 0 was the actual ignition, or what...I wasn't really sure. Glad that's normal then! Â Of course I haven't been able to get the car to do this since Sunday...and it's rained every day, which normally the rain will agitate it....but I guess that's a good thing then! Quote
jreed10 Posted May 27, 2011 Report Posted May 27, 2011 I'm going to go along with the several people who have said that this sounds like a coil pack issue. They may seem fine, but they can cause some pretty strange problems. When my 3100 started acting psychotic, I just replaced all three coil packs, and it ran like new again. The problems I experienced with the coil packs were very intermittent, and just got worse with time, until the car began to stall under any kind of acceleration, and it never threw a code. What really leads me to believe that this is a coil pack issue is the hesitation you mentioned when accelerating. I had that exact problem when my coil pack(s) went bad. I hope this helps. Quote
urbex Posted May 27, 2011 Author Report Posted May 27, 2011 Thanks! Yeah, based on everyone's opinions now it's leaning towards coil packs. I'm getting an OHM meter finally today, so maybe I can test them out... Quote
dodgethis Posted May 29, 2011 Report Posted May 29, 2011 DMM (Digital Mulitmeter) are a lot of fun to use, and to help diagnose sensors and the like. Quote
urbex Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Posted May 29, 2011 Yeah, I finally got around to buying one. My only problem was I was testing the coil packs, but I had to way to test the inside of them. Tried putting a jumper wire in and testing the wire, but it kept reading 0. I guess since the car has been running fine now the last few days, I'll leave it be until it starts acting up again... Quote
urbex Posted May 31, 2011 Author Report Posted May 31, 2011 Just remembered another tidbit I may have forgot to mention. The car NEVER did this when it was cold at all during the winter... Quote
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