Myotis1134 Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) This has me stumped. 91 Lumina wouldn't start after driving in wet conditions, and I thought it was something electrical getting wet, but it recently started stalling while driving. After looking through various posts, I replaced my crank sensor (which had several large cracks in it), the connector for the crank sensor, the knock sensor, the connector for that, spark-plugs, spark-plug wires, and today I replaced my coils. Before I started screwing with everything, it would turn over but not start. After I replaced the crank sensor and connector, it would turn over and sounded like shit, and while it was turning over, it looked like a bad ground- the battery charge would seem to drop for a second or two, then come back up. Today after replacing the coils, it will turn over and sounds way better- no surges, and it doesn't sound like shit, but will not start. I jumped my OBD1 connector, and it is throwing up nothing but 12 (after the first 3), which supposedly means the system is normal (obviously not). I hear the gas pump prime when I turn the key, and I smell gas after turning it over, so I'm guessing the fuel pump is still working. The only thing that I can think of is this- when I spliced the new crank sensor connector to the wires (and I got the colors right, I double checked), one of the wires wasn't solidly clamped like the other one. It slightly wobbled. Could that be the reason the car won't fire up? Also I might have torqued the crank sensor more than 8 ft/lbs when I installed it. Could either of these things be causing these symptoms? I'm about to head back to the garage and tear the engine apart (AGAIN), and fix the wire issue, and while I'm back there I'll see if I can fit my torque wrench back there to get the correct tightness. I need ideas for if neither of these things is the problem. As always, thanks for the help guys. Edited April 16, 2011 by Myotis1134 Too much cowbell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myotis1134 Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Put a more accurate torque on the crank sensor bolt and re-spliced the connector wire. No dice. Also no spark from any of the coils. Whatsoever. Guess the next step is the ignition control module. This sucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 I think your on the right track with the ICM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myotis1134 Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 At least I got a new car out of this project. Not bitter. Guess I'll start following up on my ICM relocation post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 If you had the crank wires both apart maybe they are backwards. I did this exact thing years ago when I extended the wiring when i relocated the coils. You may just want to recut them and hook up in reverse to try it. the new replacement harness I used had the colors reversed and I thought it was right.. When I did this the car fired right up. Did you solder the splice?? I hope you didn't use butt connectors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myotis1134 Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Now that is random. I just crimped them together with a el-cheapo wallmart electrical kit, then some shrink-tubing, so if the new ICM doesn't work I'll try that. Do you recommend soldering? Hypothetically, no matter what method is used to join the wiring, if it is properly insulated (being on the bottom of the car and all), then it should work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myotis1134 Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 New ICM installed NO SPARK. Fairly upset about it, but the next step is to reverse the wires on the new crank sensor connector, and see if it will fire up. If this works, GTP091 is my hero. No butt connectors this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 use solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myotis1134 Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Switched crank wires around. Car starts. GTP091 is the man. Pulled the car out of garage and parked in the driveway. Got out and was walking away, and heard antifreeze pouring out of engine due to heater plug, which I didn't tighten after re-installation. That sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 I'm glad it worked out for you. I would always recommend solder and heat shrink, min 1 inch past joint. solder for a good connection and heat shrink to eliminate corrosion. Our cars are old, to many end up in the crusher from short circuits and bad wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iroc2 Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 i woulda tried the cam sensor before the icm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 91 doesn't use a cam sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohcnut Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 New ICM installed NO SPARK. Fairly upset about it, but the next step is to reverse the wires on the new crank sensor connector, and see if it will fire up. If this works, GTP091 is my hero. No butt connectors this time. all electrical connections MUST be soldered so that they are not a connection anymore but one piece instead. connections FAIL. Poor connections can cause short circuits. Poor connections and short circuits in computer data lines and sensor feeds can smoke computers or at least blow fuses and cause headaches not so much later. I know this because about 40 percent of shorts and electrical circuit issues that i have had to trace have went directly back to previous poor electrical repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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