Psych0matt Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 (edited) So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on Edited February 15, 2011 by Psych0matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Good idea, if you don't want to rock the engine. I just removed my dog bone and rocked the engine, didn't take me that long either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 (edited) Or, disconnect the dogbone, and back the car up onto ramps, shut it off, and put it in park or 1st gear allowing the weight of the car to roll the engine forward. Then you don't need a universal joint and the spark plug boots are much easier to get in. Also taping your socket / extensions together is a good idea so your socket doesn't fall off the extension when down there. Edited February 27, 2011 by GOT2B GM rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 I know, I know, there are other methods! For me this is by far the easiest. I don't want to to use ramps to do spark plugs though, or disconnect the dogbone if I don't have to. I kinda did this writeup just so in a year or whenever I do this again, I don't have to do any of that, and I don't have to scratch my head trying to remember! Just seemed like a good alternative for someone who doesn't like taking crap apart to do something that shouldn't require taking crap apart rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbird232 Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 I know, I know, there are other methods! For me this is by far the easiest. I don't want to to use ramps to do spark plugs though, or disconnect the dogbone if I don't have to. I kinda did this writeup just so in a year or whenever I do this again, I don't have to do any of that, and I don't have to scratch my head trying to remember! Just seemed like a good alternative for someone who doesn't like taking crap apart to do something that shouldn't require taking crap apart You've pretty much nailed it. This is how I did my LQ1 plugs, and there's really nothing to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Nightmare Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 ON my LQ1, I have never had any real problems getting the back plugs out. tight squeeze yes but seems just enough room that with the right extensions you can get to them. Sometimes I rock the engine but even that is not really necessary. Is my 94 GTP set up in some fashion that is not usual? For rocking it, I just rock the car and apply the park brake when it is forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Cut the half-circle slices out of the weatherstrip flange on the front of the cowl. Works like a charm and can be covered back up with the weatherstripping. Tis what I did on my '92 when I had it at school. I then did my engine-bay jamming/ painting, and it looks like they're supposed to be cut like that. No U-joints or adapters required as it's a straight shot at the plugs then. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Yeah, all good options, not arguing that, but again my main issue was the concept of why should you have to modify something that you should be able to do without modifying? Just my opinion on what's best/easiest for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 1. Remove dash 2. Put 3 holes in firewall 3. Remove plugs 4. Install new plugs 5. ????????????? 6. PROFIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 5. ????????????? = Install DIS and UB3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Thas' how I did mine. Just took the weather stripping off and went to town on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Head Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Yes very easy using the right socket extensions and swivel, designers should really have some knowledge in mechanics so they can design cars better. Something as easy as changing spark plugs should not be so difficult IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95pghvert Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 im having a hell of a time with the rear plug wires on my cutty...i got her back today and changed them but now it runs and spits n pukes, Iam thinking i didnt get the plug wires all the way down on the plug....So basically you disconnect the dog bone and it will rock forwards? Iam afraid of doing that but is it just that simple ( im no where near a mechanic is why i ask) i just like trying things first before i pay someone to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Unbolt the dogbone and you can pull it forward, try a ratchet strap, or park it facing downhill so the weight of the car pushes on the parking pin in the trans and rocks it forward. You won't hurt the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 i once connected a strap to my brothers jeep and then threw the jeep into neutral and let the weight pull the engine a bit. Worked like a charm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95pghvert Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 and im guessing to get it back to its desired spot you just drive it forwards and line the dogbone back up?....I didnt know it was so easy! i hope it goes this easy in the morning LOL thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 you should be able to rock it by hand once the weight of the car is off the park pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gryfan Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on thanks matt, that is going to save me some time and cut knuckles. hat's off to you. cheers, gryfan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95pghvert Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 I connected a strap to the engine after i parked it on the ramps and loosened the dogbone, connected the strap to my jeep and pulled it did the trick...Got the wires in with no problems, it started up and ran real well untill i got on the highway, it started to spit n puke, I wonder if the bit of water down in the thing would cause that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Plugs gapped properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95pghvert Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Yup...theres white smoke coming from the pipes when i first start it it eventually goes away, driving it around though it runs rough and smells of exaust at times...Im afraid to drive it!...Looks like it will be going back to the shop just again, looks like this summer i wont be enjoying it if this keeps up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 not to sound rude, but shouldn't the exhaust smell like exhaust? I would check your plug gaps again, and did you put new wires on? If not, maybe you busted a wire taking them off/putting them on? Maybe they're not connected all the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95pghvert Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 lol it smells real rich smelling and does it for a very long time, More than normal...Will def check the other stuff again, Thanks for the advise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95pghvert Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Changed the plugs again, It ran great for 2 days now its back to running rough n crap...The check engine light is still on , But every place i take it too says they cant check the checkengine light because the car is too old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 I have a scanner that should be able to read your car no problem. PM me, I'm local. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.