99screaminregal Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Ok, so, replaced plugs and wires as stated in past thread of surge issue. Problem slightly solved, still surges. Now new issue arising. Leaves me dead in parking lots. Park the car, go into where I stopped. Come out. Start the car and all it will do is crank. Try about 5-7 times on/off cranking then it will fire up. My thought from beginning was pump. Replaced filter already. So, looking at pumps and see that AZ, ADV, Napa are all like $250 OUCH! Looked at ZZP and Intense and they have the Walbro for a lot cheaper. Should I go this route with the wiring harness upgrade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail? And made sure its the pump before you start throwing parts at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Gonna do that tomorrow. Just making sure what to go with to budget for the parts. A few guys I know suspect the pump for the way it acts. Their tools are at the shop they work at so nothing until tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 did you change the fuel filter and run BG 44K? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Filter was the first change. BG 44K? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html I'm assuming this is what it is. Try tapping the tank/fuel pump access panel with a hammer. If it suddenly works again it's the pump. My parents Sonoma did the (late model GM's all have similar design pumps) same thing. It only lasted for a day until the pump fully gave out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 yeah, the stuff in the can. It's the best fuel additive/injector cleaner/etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Well, talked with a guy I know at the Zone. Went out to check it out. Started it and the car did one of those slow, not enough fuel starts and ran a little rough. H walked to the back to listen to the pump and said it sounds pretty weak for what he knew. Told me to shut it off and start it again after a few seconds. Tried again and wouldn't start. Told me to let it sit for a few. Tells me to turn the key and let the pump run and start when it shuts off. No problem. Started right up and hasn't stalled since I've started like that everytime. He thinks the pump is weakening. My thought has been the same for a while now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 If it was me, I'd upgrade the pump just because you're already in there. Definitely do the rewire. There was another company that made a great product, but I can't seem to remember it off the top of my head. I'd just hate for you to change the pump and it not be the problem, but sounds like that's a good possibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Especially after yesterday. Wouldn't start after doing what I have. Then put the pedal down, fired up, then I letter off the pedal, died. Did that a couple times more, then it stayed on when I letter off the pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Update! Codes finally kicked my SES Light. P0101, P0108 MAP/ MAF Sensor dirty or needs replaced. Ran like shit, died on me when I pulled into a lot, wouldn't start unless the front of car was on a slight decline. Then when it fired up, sputtered and chugged like a Model A. Died on me getting it down my street twice and at the stop sign down the road. The dealership I bought it off of replaced the MAP (from NAPA) so, could it be the MAF? I'm gonna clean them both out tonight but, after what happened last night, I'm thinking replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Follow the diagnostic flow chart for P0101 to confirm or deny. The MAFs are steep as well. ~$150+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 could also be http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/44745-L67-equipped-cars-My-car-starts-and-then-stalls.-Repair-inside.?p=984793#post984793 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Well, looked over everything. Hoses are fine, MAF looked ok (cleaned anyway), MAP of course looked ok. Followed all the check lists given by Auto Zone. Still won't start. Looked a little further into the codes on the Wells Vehicle Electronics site (Auto Zones production for electronics) and found a trouble code feature. Turns out AZ gave me the generic descriptions. GM's def for P0101 on a 99 Buick Regal is......... Mass air flow sensor performance – The ECM detects that the MAF sensor signal is not with in a predetermined range of the calculater MAF value Probable Cause Open circuit condition Poor electrical connection Engine vacuum leak,An air leak in the intake duct between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body ,An air filter element that is restricted MAF/IAT sensor ECM Only things that passed the check were the hoses and air filter soooooooooooooo........ My guess would have to say MAF Sensor all the way. I can pick it up dirt cheap at Advanced Auto for $118 after Predsident's Day online sale. BUUUUUUT, I think I'll try the relay thingy b4 I go in the morning though. The thread sounds just like what has been going on. Get towed home and it starts, change the angle of the car and it starts. Ran up on a curb pulling into a parking lot and died. Relay sounds like it shorts when sending unit float moves the "Wrong" way. Would like to spend $10 and not $118 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Try unplugging the MAF and see what happens... An unplugged MAF is better than one thats not working correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Was gonna try that but didn't know what would happen. Thanks for reminding me. May do that right now. Thanks Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Not a problem, Ill be looking for an update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Ok, disconnected the MAF, didn't start. Bent the tab on relay, didn't start unless I hit the gas. Ran in high and sounded ok. Bent the tab back, had to start the same by hitting the gas pedal, started up but ran a little odd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 I think you and I are in the same boat, other than your getting the SES light. I tried bending the relay tab with no result. Check your pressure at the rail, key on it will spike and then rest. It should rest at 48-55psi. Ill be buying a new pump tomorrow as I only saw 41 psi. BTW i would just clean the MAF with crc brand MAF cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Ok, had a crazy idea come to mind yesterday. Take the ignition module and coils off and take em to AZ since they can test them. Did but, nothing wrong with them. Hooked everything up, then got it to start. Let it warm up and cleaned the snow and ice off. Took it for a spin and when I stopped for traffic to pass, I heard an interesting sound. I heard the fuel pump shifting erratically from high to low and somewhere in the middle, sounded fluttery. Backed up and all was fine. Went back to the same spot which is on an incline and did it again. Got it in the shop today. I am definitely sure it's the pump after hearing that. Just gonna make sure b4 I dive into putting a new one on. Think I'll do the Walbro kit from Intense since it's over $100 cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 I replaced my pump and it brought me up to 48psi. Even replaced my resistor just because. Problem still persisted however. I took it to my mechanic yesterday. Today he called & said its the crank sensor. I should get it back tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99screaminregal Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 Well, all is good now. My mech. found out that it was faulty wiring at the MAP. The lot I got the car from had replaced it and rewired the plug. Did a shotty job at the plug soooo, bad voltage = car runs like shit. Also, running lean. Light came on and O2 bank 1 is the culprit. Time for a new sensor. Delco, Denso, NTK or dare I say, Bosch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Delco or Denso Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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