GP1138 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 '97 GTP - with the tire pressure monitor system. How exactly does this work? It appears to be malfunctioning. I put 35psi in all wheels and it still comes on and says to check pressure, and disables the ABS in the process. I hit the button under the dash but it doesn't appear to do anything, the next key cycle it's back to it's old tricks. Also, the keyless won't sync the remote. When I flip to ACC and back after removing the MALL PGM fuse, it chimes seven times. I don't know what the code means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twenty Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Step one, as we've learned: Check to make sure that the sensors in the wheels are on the correct corners of the car. These systems are just more trouble than they're worth, to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 A 97 car most likely uses the abs wheel speed sensor to calculate the tire pressure by number of rotations vs the other tires and a programmed table. I am almost 100% confident you do not have sensors in your tires themselves. You probably have a bad abs wheel sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Uh this car doesn't have the sensors in the tires... It is based on the wheel speed sensors... And John the abs system having an error will turn on the tire pressure light... Same thing is going on in my 97... For me its the wiring on the right front wheel is bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Yeah, you have an indirect TPMS system which is borderline useless. It runs off the wheel speed sensors. A flat/low tire runs at a different speed going down the road so thats how it determines a tire is low/flat. As Al said, and issue with the ABS system will cause an issue, along with incorrect tire sizes. Even one tire being at 2/32nds tread and the other at 9 or higher can trigger it, along with slight wheel spin on slick roads. Its actually quite a useless system:thumbsup: Get a scanner on it, look for ABS codes and such. Also see if you have erratic wheel speed signals from bad sensors or loose connections. As for the RKE, beats me. Once again, a scanner should be able to access the BCM and read codes to give you an area to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 I have the same problem with the remotes too and if I figure something out ill let you know... I started with ordering new remotes... However I get the same chimes that you do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonpro03 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Wait, there's a button under the dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Wait, there's a button under the dash? Weird, maybe a magic reset button. Sorry lol but I have heard some whacky stories about switchess under the dash. (look this switch fills my blinker fluid) I agree the systems that used te ABS system were useless, Pull ABS codes and you will likely find a faulty corner. As for the keyless I am a little rusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Yes its yellow Under the wheel. It does Use ABS to tell the difference HOLD the button for 5-10 seconds. and turn the car off and back on. If your ABS is working. the light will go out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 It did go out and I made one full trip with working ABS. Weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Not that I didn't expect it, but the heated seat switch seems to be interfering with the DIC, rear defrost, and the fan speed 5. It also, by extension, fucks with the "TPMS" system. Haha! Fun! I'll find out what's going on, yet! I've also found a lot of reports of faulty ignition switches, which also might be the issue here. I still want to get a new keyless box though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Also, I notice that 2nd gen GP's (the Dayton Edition did this too) seem to be ass-heavy and slide on curved on and offramps when it's wet, moreso than you'd expect, where my Cutlass would hug the ground. I'm gonna get the rear struts checked, my SE sedan did that too, and a set of Sensatracs cured it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 To the thread title- Not surprised one bit!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 To the thread title- Not surprised one bit!! Yup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonpro03 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I've heard that all electrical problems stem from busted blower motor resistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 John you have the worst luck with electrical problems..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Thread title edit: '97 GP = Electrical Fail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Mine doesn't have any electrical issues Yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 none of mine did (all 3 97's) it kinda upsets me that people saying gp fail stiff has Not owned a 1997 Grand prix. If they have... it'd be different. it has nothing to do with the year. its a bad ground... Try the big 3 upgrade. and Fix the blower motor resister. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Also, I notice that 2nd gen GP's (the Dayton Edition did this too) seem to be ass-heavy and slide on curved on and offramps when it's wet, moreso than you'd expect, where my Cutlass would hug the ground. I'm gonna get the rear struts checked, my SE sedan did that too, and a set of Sensatracs cured it. My CS never did this, but for some reason both of my Grand Prixs have the strange habit of going from manageable understeer to frightening oversteer in the rain on ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 My Prix did that stock. Haven't gone fast enough lately to do it again, but I bet with my bigger rear bar it's even worse. :willynilly: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 i got my ass end to kick out one time in my 1997 Blown struts were the problem i was on dry pavement took a cornner at about 65 it was from one road to another (with two HUGH Shoulders) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 My CS never did this, but for some reason both of my Grand Prixs have the strange habit of going from manageable understeer to frightening oversteer in the rain on ramps. With all due respect, your Grand Prix is definitely a little different in the back than mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 I discovered that the electrical problem is the IGN cylinder. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=3971796&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1 I found that on ClubPostgen, and it worked a treat. I also replaced my DIC lightbulbs. Now I gotta resolder the HUD light sensor and find some way to disable the TPMS crap so my ABS doesn't go off all the time. Pleased!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 I can scan your abs code on Saturday the 19th Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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