xtremerevolution Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Posted February 10, 2011 I run the 200 treadwear Hankook Z212's on the TGP, and that is plenty soft for DDing (I only put 1000 kms a year on the thing) But the tires are far and away the best handling mod done to that car. With such a soft rubber, I don't doubt it. I'm sure those grip nearly like racing slicks. Quote
White93z34 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Posted February 11, 2011 wow just saw that post about the ECM. I'd be ecstatic if that was my car and it fixed the issue. Best of luck there! Quote
xtremerevolution Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Posted February 11, 2011 wow just saw that post about the ECM. I'd be ecstatic if that was my car and it fixed the issue. Best of luck there! Yeah I'm pretty excited. I should be getting it in next week, and I'll report back at that time. Quote
Addicted to eaton Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 (edited) This is not my stuff its marks, im just postin it for andrie. The plan is to take a chunk of aluminum like the above and drill the mounting holes / passages in it. I will tap & die the filter and return ports and mount the filter remotely I bought the same kit Noah used. I'm going to use the remote filter bracket and the fittings. I got this crude 2-axis mill vise for $59 at Harbor Freight to use with my drill press. I have no idea if it will work or not. I picked up bits at the hardware store that I've never tried before. I think I've got a shot at it. If not, I know at least two places I can go to have it done. Here's that helpful GM diagram I mentioned. My $20 aluminum bar with an oil adapter gasket on it. My 2-axis mill ready for action. these bits ROCK! my "Blue print" Look how clean everything is! Tonights work Enough aluminum splinters for 1000 lifetimes. I don't know how I'll clean this up but it ain't looking good. The mounting holes drilled. bolts installed. Next, some carefully placed fittings and a couple passage ways. Tada. The passages get a C- but the motor-side makes up more than 50% of the flow anyway. I made the important spots big and I ground out the restrictive points bigger than the relocation kit it will be flowing through. If I do version 2, it will have the oil filter on it and probably just have it machined CNC. Note: the hole in the middle should NOT be ground out all the way!! It acts as a stopper for the spring loaded valve. The wbody bracket (left) has nothing at the end of the long bottom right passage. The fbody bracket (right) has its oil return at the bottom ... that's the only purpose I can see for this passage to exist. There appears to be nothing at the motor side connected to this. Here is the reverse view / motor side (front cover) where the bracket mounts. Looks like it leads nowhere. The top is connected into the block. Also, note the middle hole - you can see an opening to the right into the big rectangular passage. I guess this is the oil pressure limiter? Here's the cylinder that goes into the round hole in the previous picture. Notice how much larger it is than the opening in the filter bracket. It appears to be set up to recirculate excess oil when pressure builds too high. Here's that cylinder, installed. My bracket with fittings and oil pressure sender installed. The top has been shaved off almost to the bolts in order to clear the power steering pump (the red gtp is the one im getting) might be My remote oil filter bracket. Mounted it to my carrier bearing bracket. Simple. The filter was an extra one I had laying around. Edited February 14, 2011 by Addicted to eaton Quote
Addicted to eaton Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 mark did this for his GTP with a 6 speed its not my work, i only wanted to pass it along. and was copying and pasting. Quote
mra32 Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 You should edit the post (possibly with a QUOTE tag) because on first read, its not abundantly clear that this is somebody elses work. You know how people like to get on your back about BSin' Quote
BXX Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 lol at trusting your engine's most vital fluid to rubber hose and worm clamps:lol: Quote
xtremerevolution Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Posted February 13, 2011 lol at trusting your engine's most vital fluid to rubber hose and worm clamps:lol: It would be fine with barbed fittings, but Alas, those aren't barbed fittings. Speaking of clamps, the ones you put on my car keep coming loose. I've tightened the trans line clamp that was leaking 3 times now and it keeps loosening up. I've also had to tighten the lower radiator hose on the radiator side once. I'm going to pick up some factory clamps, since at least those stay tight. I'm guessing the heat fluctuations are causing them to loosen up. Either way, its kind of annoying. Quote
BXX Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 Cant ever say I have ever had a worm clamp ever loosen up until your car:think: I swear that car just hates me... Quote
mra32 Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 Those are barbed. And thats a very common setup. There are other kinds of clamps that are better at dealing with fluctuations and size. The oem style spring-band clamps come to mind. There are even worm drive hose clamps that have a spring behind the tensioner screw to keep a constant tension. Worm drive clamps are cheap, widely used and great if you can deal with the limitations and drawbacks, which many applications can...even oil lines Quote
Addicted to eaton Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 there off a filter relocation clap. And so what about the hose? 1,000's of cars back in the day had oil filters on the fire wall Quote
xtremerevolution Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 I can't help but think that the series 1 ofa I mentioned earlier that goes over the diff on the 4T60E would fit just fine, especially looking at these recent pictures. Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk Quote
gpchris Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 lol at trusting your engine's most vital fluid to rubber hose and worm clamps:lol: I hear ya. Sure it would probably be fine but i would use no less than SS line with AN fittings, Its not really much more work or $$$ but the insurance is so worth it. I can't help but think that the series 1 ofa I mentioned earlier that goes over the diff on the 4T60E would fit just fine, especially looking at these recent pictures. Thats what i was thinking but if it were that easy I know somebody who have done it by now. Quote
xtremerevolution Posted February 18, 2011 Author Report Posted February 18, 2011 The 2003 PCM fixed my transmission shifting issues. Manual trans swap is put on hold until I feel like swapping it, or until someone makes me an offer for the swap kit I bought from Bob. Quote
White93z34 Posted February 18, 2011 Report Posted February 18, 2011 thats awesome! bet you are plenty happy now Quote
xtremerevolution Posted February 18, 2011 Author Report Posted February 18, 2011 thats awesome! bet you are plenty happy now Yeah. I was a little disappointed at first because the shifts aren't as firm and sharp as before, but then I realized that's because I was too used to the car running limp mode half the time. I can finally have some fun with this car, at least after I get a case relearn done tomorrow night. Quote
kuntzie Posted February 18, 2011 Report Posted February 18, 2011 fwiw when doing a manual swap use the 1st oil filter adapter pictured on page 2 you hae to block off the top. use a 05+ 3.8 engine mount on an aluminum pan, that way there is no U backet and the above will fit in nicely. done and done, make things easy Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.