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so the fix begins


musthavemuzk

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well i was unable to pick the broken piece of fitting out of the lower intake.

so tonight i got some gaskets and i hit the yard for a lower intake.

gaskets i got...TB, valve cover, and an upper/lower intake set.

the lower intake i got is from an 88 cutty with the 2.8 with crankcase venthole.

 

so my questions.

 

reading the haynes manual it looks like i might need some other things. the one that sticks out is new o-rings for the injectors where they go into the lower intake.

any others you can think of?

 

how do i remove the pulley from the power steering pump so i can remove it to set it aside, for removal of the hidden bolt?

 

will this 2.8 lower intake work with my 3.1?

 

and man alive was this thing filthy in the inside. TB, plenum, lower intake.

filthy filthy filthy

best way to clean the filth?

 

i snapped a few pics tonight. they are linked below

 

http://www.dbfanatics.com/forum/photo_album_view.asp?cname=underhood&mid=16&cid=248

 

wish me luck.

i have to have my cutty back in action.

 

btw when i went to remove the fitting from the used lower intake....it came right out with little effort and no breakage. go figure. grrrrrr

 

Monty

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About the injector O-rings, I should have told ya, that you dont have to remove the injectors or the rail from the lower manifold, that would have saved you gettin new O-rings. When I got mine, they were like $10 for 12 of them, only 6 needed. Just replace the bottom ones, where the injectors go into the the lower manifold. You will need a new EGR to plenum gasket ($2, I think), and prolly a new gasket where the heater line comes out of the top of the water pump ($2, I think). Carb cleaner is the best to get all that gunk outta there. Oh, be careful and dont over tighten any bolts when you put it back together (been there done that). Keep us updated

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i have not gotten o-rings yet. was just asking if i had to before i could put it back together. after i got it apart anyways.

 

yes i will need a new gasket where the metal pipe goes in near the water pump.

egr to plenum gasket. prolly so.

 

any other you can think of?

 

i thank you for the help Robby.

 

i will be sure to take pics and keep this current.

as i am pretty stoked to be diggin into an engine for the first time.

 

Monty

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wires are about 20,000 old about a year on them. i bought plugs already just had not got them in yet.

 

O2's is definitely a good idea since i will have full access basically.

 

will look at the pcv as well.

 

thanx again

:D

 

Monty

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OK

so i got further tonight.

may have gotten further but i had to get parts i forgot last night.

i got the lower intake out. and was able to take a look at the fitting that broke.

 

would like to try to remove it as the lower intake i got from the yard looks kinda poor looking, but i dunno.

 

i still think that it was jb welded or something.

 

from the one shop i was given an idea to try to make a few cuts then pic at the cuts to break it loose. still did not help. so that is why i am at the point i am at.

 

feeling pretty good about myself.

just hope it goes back together as good as it came apart.

 

i do not want to take more time, but it is pretty ugly and filthy so i am thinking i should take some time and clean things up a bit before i put it back together.

 

just keeping you up to date.

 

new pics here

http://www.dbfanatics.com/forum/photo_album_view.asp?cname=underhood&mid=16&cid=248

 

Monty

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yes they are still golden. i was gonna ask if that was good or bad, but the sleepies are catching up with me finally. long days little sleep.

 

well last i can recall the odometer said about 139,000. then it reset itself to 0. since then it will rack up a few hundred then reset to 0 again. so i am guessing around 145-147,000.

 

burns no oil between changes.

still gets up and scoots when asked to.

generally i love my cutty.

 

Monty

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Hmm very interesting.. I've got a leak in that same general area. Have not gone exploring yet because I know its gonna be a PITA. I will get to it eventually, but for now I'm adding about 1/3cup of coolant/water every 4-5days. Hopefully it lasts me till I get a new car next spring and then I can take it apart and tackle the same stuff you are working on.

Was that fitting just supposed to screw out or what? Is that from the heater core return line? My car initially had this problem A-LONG time ago (I was like 14, now 25 :) ) and we (dad's car back then) took it to PepBoys and they were saying they needed some sort of special GM tool to take something off from down there. Well I think they fucked it up even worse and just plugged it somehow and added that coolant leak seal shit, well they messed up the whole system with that gunk :dammit: , and now I have no heat either and it is leaking more again...

 

but anyways I will look you up again with some questions whenever I get around to taking it apart... catch ya later...

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That fittin is supposed to unscrew from the lower intake. However, since its made of pot metal, its prone to leaking or breaking off when you try to unscrew it. There are no special tools needed to get it off. The line goes from the lower intake into the firewall, so Im assuming it feeds the heater core.

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what he said

that fitting unscrewed with little effort on lower intake i got from the yard.

 

the sensor right above it unscrewed easily as well.

 

the other thing that might be leaking are the rubber hoses right there. both are attached to the bottom of the throttle body. and i am guessing over time and with hot and cold the rubber would deteriorate. so that is another thing to look at.

 

if it is the fitting that is leaking it is a pretty easy fix. part cost 7-10 bux. and i would say mayb an hour tops to replace it. that is provided the part does not break off.

 

you might be able to see the leak with the airbox in place. if not then remove the airbox and that gives you plenty of room to see what is going on there.

 

i got another question for ya Robby.

 

i thought about this at work today so i asked a couple people and they said it would be a good idea. with all this messing around should i change the oil? it makes sense to change it. but i thought i would ask someone more in the know than myself.

 

Monty

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took way longer than i ever imagined.

but it runs and does not leak.

WOOHOO.

 

finished it up last night about the time it was getting dark.

 

as i have said before this was my first time past the outer skin of an engine. i have done limited work on external parts of an engine.

i was a little timid when i decided that this is what i would have to do to fix my problem. but after asking some questions here. reading the haynes manual. talking to some coworkers who have dug into engines in the past. i was feeling confident that i could handle this.

 

took me alot longer than i think it would take most. i am OK with that though. i was able to start and finish the project. with no extra parts. and the car running fine and with the leak fixed.

 

i would like to thank the w-body community as a whole. but i really want to single out robby1870 for taking the time to answer my questions as well as giving me some pointers.

 

i sure am glad i asked about an oil change though. when i pulled the plug it was antifreeze that coated my hand instead of oil as it normally is.

so i think this is gonna be a short run on this oil.

 

since i got this up and running last night i have ran around town doing much needed errands. as well as went out for a quick few mile jaunt out of town tonight after work. all fluids have been checked both before and after and to be sure they OK. in color, smell and consistancy. all seem fine so far. with it getting dark last night i just topped the radiator off with water. have to get that fixed asap as it has already dipped to 25 F up hear in NW MN.

 

but so far so good.

 

i do have a few more pics but have not uploaded them yet.

 

while in there i changed the plugs. the wires seemed fine.

pcv valve was also changed.

i have an IAC on order as i got anxious when i pulkled it out to clean it and pressed on it hard. it did not come up on its own. DUH. i read not to do that too in the haynes manual, but i still had to.

 

Monty

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Im glad it worked out for ya, and Im glad I could help. I wish I could have been there with ya, probably would have helped more. I would check the coolant level for the next couple of days. Mine took a couple days to equalize where I didnt have to add new coolant. Yeah it does take a long to do it the first time, but if you ever have to do it again, you'll get it done if half the time. Glad I could help

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that is a fact. first time usually takes forever. subsequent times are a breeze.

i know that from other hobbies and interests i am into.

 

it would have been cool to have someone close at hand. not necessarily holding my hand or anything, but someone who could help a newb out.

 

this was the next best thing. a forum to come to and ask others who are into the same thing. and hell mayb have done the same thing.

 

as for checking the coolant level for a couple days. i plan on keeping an eagle eye on the whole thing for a few.

just being a bit anal.

 

other big projects in store before snow flies.

auto start. i have already purchased this. just hesitant to do it. plus not a whole lot of time this summer to do it.

 

brakes all around. rotors and pads for sure. mayb calipers as well. would like to do the 94+ swap as well.

 

shocks/struts.

 

thosa are what i want to get done before snow.

of course always something you could do.

 

so i might be back for more info/help.

 

Thank You.

 

Monty

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