thikstik Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 I just pulled a strut tower cover for the first time and now see that caster/camber must be un-adjustable. So is that correct and is toe "0"? Its a 4 door. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 I don't think they are zero but they are adjustable... The camber is adjusted at the two bolts holding the knuckle... And the toe is the tie rods... Caster you grind out the strut tower holes to adjust them... If I remember ill try to grab the specs from work tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thikstik Posted December 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 I didnt see any bolts (im talking about front struts) , so Ill look again. It has that big curtain looking knuckle. Hate to hear that tower holes have to be opened. Toe , yes its easy on these cars. Thanks for checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 I'm sure others will chime in, but on first gens, camber/caster is handled by the location of the top strut mount. I think it is advised to slot the 3 mounting holes if necessary to correct the camber/caster. It doesnt seem like too big a deal to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thikstik Posted December 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 Sounds good, i just need .05 * of camber + on pass side. But then will have to be careful not to throw off caster. mra32, can you say where you got the round lihgts? they are great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thikstik Posted December 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 ok mra32, just saw your info in body forum, thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 Caster Angle, Degrees Limits +1.5 to +2.5 Desired +.2 Camber Angle, Degrees Limits +.2 to +1.2 Desired +0.7 Toe-In, Degrees -.2 to +.2 Steering Angle, Degrees Limits -3.5 to +3.5 Desired 0 Straight from alldata Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thikstik Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Al, you the man , thanks. i do my own toe adj , and set it about 1/8 toe-in after putting in the one ft bearing. Then i put in another bearing (which cured the humm) , and the car is wandering. So I will reset toe and hope thats all it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Which bearing cured the humming? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thikstik Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Which bearing cured the humming? It , despite the sound/vib coming from the drivers floorboard, was the pass side. Thats why i think it could be other guys problem where Fireprone told him r/r all struts,bearings. After looking at specs, i realize I dont know how to convert degrees to inches. I will just set toe to 0, but it makes me wonder. My caster/camber gauge reads out in degrees, but toe is on a long bar with index marks. So I can do the alignment, i just would like to know how to convert. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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