Bake82 Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 repinned harness or an adaptor? If its a repinned harness I'll just take the plug with 6" + of wire How soon are you thinking? Repinned harness. Originally had the standard electronic dash with fuel, speed and odometer. Probably 2-3 weeks? I have the parts car interior harness stripped complete and will be pulling the motor hopefully this weekend along with all associated wiring in the engine bar and any remaining pieces. By the time I get to my car and tearing it apart, we're probably looking 2-3 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 i have both the 90 and 94 connects with 12 inches of wire lying around... if you need em, But I know shipping is a beotch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted November 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 shipping shouldn't be bad for items that small, quote to N2E 3V5 please. How was Dan making adaptors? (getting the plug opposite to the 94 harness?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 shipping shouldn't be bad for items that small, quote to N2E 3V5 please. How was Dan making adaptors? (getting the plug opposite to the 94 harness?) I was referring to how long they might take to arrive.... He hacked up clusters to get the opposite plug. If you can solder yourself, you could do a better, easier and cheaper job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Or have Ken mail it to Chris, if he mails it Monday, it should be there on Thursday, that will keep the shipping cost down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted November 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Hmm I do have a 250,000 km 93 cluster I will never use.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 No, I didn't. Rockfangd and Psych0matt had done it. I sure did. I had 0 regrets, and yes you have to change the oil pressure switch with the sender. I have lots of pics and info.pm me and I will share all my knowledge:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I also added HUD, DIS, and the delcoloc cd player:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 pm sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I never added UB3 to mine. I was told it washes out in the sun, and I decided whoever it was that said it was probably right as I can imagine it happening. I decided a convertible shouldn't have a dash that washes out in the sun (despite never having completely fixed my top so it was an irrelevant concern, but whatever). I did add DIS to mine, it works great and looks great! HUD too, though mine had the connector so that was crazy easy. This is just my personal opinion, but if I were buying a used car, I'd rather it were repinned instead of cut & spliced. Repinned can be fully restored to 100% OEM stock (given a little manual labor) while cut & spliced cannot. When I buy a used car, I'm a sucker for it having been unmolested. That's just me, I may very well be the only one that cares about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 I agree with Shawn, I liked the repinning idea better. Ken always tried to talk me into adding a second plug, but I had already got the UB3 in and working 100%. I never had the washout problem in the sunlight though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Manic, Can you PM me 2003 GPGT Radio single disc pinouts? I still dont know which wire goes to my HUD its A5 DK GRN on the Hud, and Dark green on the back of the radio IIRC same one for SWRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 FML, Im color blind to green... Is it the ONLY green wire on the back of the radio? I have it marked on the HUD which one it is but never knew which one on the back of the radio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 I know this has been dormant for a while, but before I put my digital cluster in, from reading this it would seem that the Check Gauges indication on the HUD is lost as there is no output from the digital cluster to that wire for the HUD. Did I miss something or is that correct? If it is disabled, I would want to consider adding in a small circuit to provide that functionality as without it, the HUD becomes even more of novelty as you still would have to look down occasionally to make sure your alt hasn't died, you are not overheating, out of gas, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 I still have yet to do this but it WILL happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 I know this has been dormant for a while, but before I put my digital cluster in, from reading this it would seem that the Check Gauges indication on the HUD is lost as there is no output from the digital cluster to that wire for the HUD. Did I miss something or is that correct? If it is disabled, I would want to consider adding in a small circuit to provide that functionality as without it, the HUD becomes even more of novelty as you still would have to look down occasionally to make sure your alt hasn't died, you are not overheating, out of gas, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 I know this has been dormant for a while, but before I put my digital cluster in, from reading this it would seem that the Check Gauges indication on the HUD is lost as there is no output from the digital cluster to that wire for the HUD. Did I miss something or is that correct? If it is disabled, I would want to consider adding in a small circuit to provide that functionality as without it, the HUD becomes even more of novelty as you still would have to look down occasionally to make sure your alt hasn't died, you are not overheating, out of gas, etc. Yes, I believe that's correct. It's been many, many years since I played with it, but the HUD digital clusters had an extra little circuit board to drive the low fuel icon. My memory is very hazy, but I don't think the original HUD from 88-90 on the Cutlass had a "CHECK GAUGES" indicator, only low fuel, so even with that little extra circuit, it would only warn you of low fuel. Now if I have said anything in the past on old posts that contradicts this, then what I said in the past is correct as I'm going by very hazy memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Thanks Shawn. I'll have to check the feasibility, but I think I would want Check Gauges to show in the HUD for any improper condition that the gauges would indicate. That would include high temp, low/high oil pressure, low fuel and low/high voltage. If I have to effectively decode the signals to do that, then it would also be possible to flash Check Gauges in the HUD for a seriously out of whack readings. So it would come on when a reading is abnormal, and flash when we get to a really bad situation. Now I just have to find the time for that since I am swamped with lots of stuff right now and only a small part of it is related to my car, although I wish it were the other way around. The circuit shouldn't be that complicated though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 so I haven't been on here in two years but, I remember when I did this in the alumina. Since you already have the ub3 analogs in the car now all you should have 2 do is re-pin the plug. Trying to splice the plug is a pain and there is not much room back there. Just run the orange wire down to aldl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 If I didn't have the HUD I would agree that re-pinning would be fine, but I want the Check Gauges indicator in the HUD to work and the digital UB3 does not have a signal output for that. This is why I am considering adding the extra circuit to enable this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 There should be a wire to your current cluster the light, can you run that right to the HUD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjOlds Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 There is an SES wire going in to the cluster and a Check Gauges for the HUD coming out. The SES wire isn't appropriate and the analogue gauges HUD output is not duplicated on the digital gauges. That is why I figure I need to make this extra bit up if I want Check Gauges to do anything after the digital install. If it works as I envision it, the Check Gauges in the HUD will be more functional than the analog unit's as I was going to make it obnoxious (flashing) if anything got too out of whack. Assuming I get it right, the same circuit would also work on the analogue setup as well. It would still require access to the relevant signals and the HUD pin would have to disconnected from the cluster as well (and plugged into the circuit). Anyway, if and when I get the time to play with this further I will post more details of what I have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) its A5 DK GRN on the Hud, and Dark green on the back of the radio IIRC same one for SWRC Um, Dark Green on HUD and Dash Cluster = ECM/Vehicle Speed Sensor. Dark Green on radio = Entertainment and Comfort Data Bus. 2 completely different signals. For Speed Controlled Volume, the vehicle speed sensor signal was translated through the Body Control Module and sent to the radio via the E&C (dark green wire) or the Class 2 (dark purple wire) data bus. Steering wheel controls was also sent to the BCM as well to be translated. Edited December 15, 2011 by Starflare5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994RedVert Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Does anyone have a digi cluster with the adapter already made that they want to sell? I have a 1994 cutlass supreme convertible and new to the forum. But, am trying to do some cool mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Does anyone have a digi cluster with the adapter already made that they want to sell? I have a 1994 cutlass supreme convertible and new to the forum. But, am trying to do some cool mods. It's not that hard to make one. I've made my own and it's not the prettiest thing, but it works great. I would encourage you to make your own. It's really not hard to do. Plus there is tons of info on the site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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