Bench powering CS UB3 digital cluster

[94 olds vert]

So who knows how I get power to this to see if it will work?

 

I've been searching the forum and I came across this thread.

 

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/43788-Bench-Powering-a-Cutlass-Digital-Dash?highlight=digital+dash+cutlass

 

Maybe someone could elaborate on this.

 

Any help would be appreciated. I have no idea what I'm doing as I never powered anything up before. Thanks guys.

[jimmyfloyd]

1990 digital UB3 CS cluster

connector Pin# Wire color function

dUB3-C1 PNK/BLK INDICator FUSE circuit, hot in run, bulb test, and start (+)

dUB3-C2 LT BLU left turn indicator (+)

dUB3-C3 DK BLU right turn indicator (+)

dUB3-C4 TAN/WHT brake indicator (-)

dUB3-C5 GRY/WHT "Antilock" indicator

dUB3-C6 TAN/BLK shift indicator (-)

dUB3-C7 LT GRN high beam indicator (+)

dUB3-C8 --- not used

dUB3-C9 --- not used

dUB3-C10 YEL VF display dim enable (+ to enable dimming)

dUB3-C11 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+)

dUB3-C12 --- not used

dUB3-C13 ORN Serial data link to aldl (for tach and data)

dUB3-C14 BLK.WHT ground

dUB3-C15 --- not used

dUB3-C16 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit hot in run (+)

connector Pin# Wire color function

dUB3-D1 BLK ground for indicator bulbs

dUB3-D2 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator

dUB3-D3 YEL/BLK "low coolant" level indicator

dUB3-D4 BRN "charge indicator"

dUB3-D5 BRN/WHT "service Engine Soon" indicator

dUB3-D6 --- not used

dUB3-D7 --- not used

dUB3-D8 --- not used

dUB3-D9 LT/BLU english metric switch ouput(switch part of cluster)

dUB3-D10 BRN/WHT VF dimmer input

dUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure sensor input

dUB3-D12 DK GRN/WHT coolant temperature sensor input

dUB3-D13 PPL fuel level sender input

dUB3-D14 --- not used

dUB3-D15 DK GRN VSS speedometer input

dUB3-D16 ORN ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, cluster memory (+)

 

 

tony. the grounds CAN vary in the exact color.... but here is the pinouts. Those are the hots and grounds for the cluster.

 

 

Ok, anything in bolt with HOT goes to positive, anything in bold with ground goes to ground. Pretty simple. As for where to get power and ground, you could use a car battery, but it's best to have a fuse between the positive just in case, even with testing. I have a 12v battery at home that I use for all my testing. You could also use a rechargable battery pack from a tool set to. I use my Ryobi ONE batteries in the junkyard all the time to move windows and seats and check radios and things like that.

 

Now, do you have the wiring harness pigtail for this? If so, that makes it easier. And for the numbering of the pins, you should be able to look in the connector cavity on the cluster and see the labels.

[94 olds vert]

No, I didn't grab the pigtail...

 

I was planing on using the extra battery to my cutlass. What would be a be a good ground?

 

I have plenty of extra wire I can use to connect the cluster to the + terminal on the battery. I could probably rig up a fuse to use (rather be safe than sorry).

[jimmyfloyd]

I usually use the negative terminal for ground, since that's where all the grounds on the car lead back to.

 

For wiring up stuff I don't have the connectors for, I usually put a couple of these butt splices on some 6-10" pieces of wires so that I can go over 1 pin with it, and then I connect the wires as needed to power or ground. If you plan on testing stuff regularly, it isn't a bad idea to make a test rig on a piece of wood with a fuse holder and connections for a battery. If you are doing it once, then just twist/tape the wires to one end of the fuse, or use a female spade, and then a female spade to the other end.

[94 olds vert]

Thanks for your help. I would of never thought about using those connectors.

 

Cool so as soon as I have some time. I'm going to wire this up.

[jimmyfloyd]

Yeah, I got lucky and my battery uses terminals that female spade connectors fit right over, so I have a bunch of test harnesses with female spade connectors for power and ground. Just plug it in and away I go. Used mainly for radios, clusters and seats.

[Go4DaMo]

My mom has a UB3 cluster in her car and, by incident, the entire cluster went to black, leaving only dummy lights, a gear indicator light, and the high beam indicator (turn signal pods are not installed on her Lumina)...I can't make sense of it and check the fuses in the glove box. I was messing with the wires for the KPH/MPH switch and somehow shorted out the cluster as the car was idling at the county emissions check station.

[Hairdo12]

My mom has a UB3 cluster in her car and, by incident, the entire cluster went to black, leaving only dummy lights, a gear indicator light, and the high beam indicator (turn signal pods are not installed on her Lumina)...I can't make sense of it and check the fuses in the glove box. I was messing with the wires for the KPH/MPH switch and somehow shorted out the cluster as the car was idling at the county emissions check station.

 

 

I'm your man to get it working again. When you're ready, send me some pictures of the wires under the dash and on top of the harness of the ub3. None of the fuses would be bad in the glove box as the cluster is powering the dummy lights and the high beam indicator. Given the high beam indicator works, that is a good indication the vfd isn't toast, the high beam indicator I believe is ground driven and the rest of the components in vfd are positive driven. I would find the two ground wires in the harness and make sure they all have good grounds. I believe one ground wire drives the indicator lights and the other is for the vfd.

 

Edit: check this wire dUB3-C14 BLK.WHT ground

[Go4DaMo]

Thanks, Mark! I'll have time tomorrow, presumably to get to lookin at her. I've been prioritizing my black Z's issues, but it's going to the shop today...so it's time to get mom's speedo workin!