94vertluvr Posted October 13, 2010 Report Posted October 13, 2010 In replacing my alternator I used a flood light to see in the evening; well it melted some of the inner CV boot; and you guessed it grease all over the place! So, I have to replace the inner CV boot on the passenger side. Can anyone tell me how difficult this will be? Do I have to pull the axle as I suspect? ALSO, I'm replacing my tie rod ends which look shot; is the best way to get the end off the rod to heat it then work it off? I tried WD 40 on the end and threads and pretty much tore up that little area with the ridges using some vise grips. Anyone have any ideas on this??? This crap is driving me nuts! I hate doing repairs like this in the winter so I'm trying to avoid it by going ahead and replacing the worn parts. Thanks again for all the help guys! Quote
GTP091 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 I've never redone the cv joints. But I've seen lots written about it. It's pretty delicate work regarding contaminants. You will need to remove the hub to get at the axle. When that's done you might as well pull the axle off to make it easier to work on (giant flat head screwdriver is all you need. There's also special banding tools needed to put the boot clamps back on. You would likely find it easier and maybe even cheaper to get a replacement axle from the JY. tie rod ends are easy. impact the nut off and a couple wacks with a BFH with a 2X4 in between for protection pops them right out. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 I've replaced many boots over the years, all on the 88 Cutlass. It's pretty easy. Yes, you do have to remove the axle, then use a tool to cut off the clamps. A dremel works. The inner clamp needs a special crimper if it's a smooth band. I usually don't use those, and use the clamps that can be crimped with a boot clamp tool. They look like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WMR-W83013-Pliers-CV-Boot-Clamp-Steel-9-25-Length-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563fbefac5QQitemZ370436668101QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools Contamination can be a problem, but I had a badly contaminated and almost dry CV joint that I just cleaned very thoroughly by wiping clean what I could, then soaking in a solvent. A lot of dirt, grit, sand, etc. had entered the boot. This CV even made slight popping noises. Most people would have trashed it, but I cleaned it out very thoroughly and put new grease and a new boot on it. It quit making the popping sound and actually worked great for many years. I use a special Kent-Moore tool for the inner tierods, but I know a lot of people use a pickle fork and BFH. Quote
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