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96 GPSE rear caliper seizing intermittently


white4d96

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On the way home from the grocer today I started smelling brakes. When I got home I could feel the heat off my right rear wheel from 6 inches away. However it doesn't seem to be seizing now. I am planning on ripping the car apart tomorrow to see what the deal is, but does anyone have any ideas of what it might be? I'm hoping for a collapsed brake hose, but I heard these calipers are known for being crappy...

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So it probably isn't the caliper, and if it is I shouldn't have to worry about it going bad again if I replace it?

 

If so I may just do that then, but if it's going to fail again within the lifetime of the car I may just let it sit until I can do gen 2 spindles and brakes (coilovers and struts too while I'm at it). I just don't wanna drop $150 on a new caliper and have to do it again within the next...ever.

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I got pics I'll upload in the morning, but I popped the caliper off to find massive burnt brake stench, partially glazed pads, and the caliper stuck so bad I can't even move the piston. The boot is horribly torn, and I'm debating whether I should rebuild it or just get reman's. I was told that these calipers are a bitch to rebuild, is that so?

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Thing is, I can't find any full rebuild kits locally, only a boot kit, and I'm not sure if that will help me in this situation. Not to mention my piston looks like it went through a war zone.

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I can get the reman rears locally for $65, but I'm going to look at the Pull-a-Part first, because they're normally eleven there but they have a 1/3 off sale this weekend so if I find one that looks to be in great shape I'll get that. I get a month warranty through the yard so it's not a complete stab in the dark with them, but I'm still not going to get one unless it looks to be almost brand new.

 

BTW-my pads on that side look to be glazed on the bottom 1/4 of the pad (closest to the hub.) They're almost brand new though. Do I need to toss them?

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I got a caliper at the JY, and it helped the situation, but not immensely. I drove to Milwaukee and back today thinking it was fixed fixed, and the back driver's side you couldn't feel the heat at all, but the passenger side felt like the driver's front.

 

Odd thing is, the passenger front is way hotter than the driver's front. too. I can't seem to think how they would be related though, since they should be on two separate systems...right?

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Okay, something else is wrong, because I had a full-blown fire on the left rear, and major smokage from the right rear today. They won't fully disengage, and when I come to a stop, the left one locks, then if I put enough torque on it (put in gear and try to accelerate) it goes BANG and sorta frees up. Thoughts?

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These brakes are shitty enough as it is.. I can't imagine a jy caliper is really that good of an idea. '96 upgrade? Remanned caliper?

 

but he's dealing with a 96.:lol:

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It is a '96. I'm going 2nd gen ASAP but I need to do coilovers first.

 

Is monammonium phosphate (dry chem extinguisher stuff) corrosive? Can I just wash it off?

Edited by white4d96
spelling fail
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It is a '96. I'm going 2nd gen ASAP but I need to do coilovers first.

 

Is monammonium phosphate (dry cehm extinguisher stuff) corrosive? Can I just wash it off?

 

I've dealt with it at work (gas station). Just hose it off, and you'll be good.

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So I can't get the left rear caliper off the bracket. It swivels quite freely but even wailing on it with a hammer yielded no results. Anyway, the piston boot is destroyed on that one as well, so it will need to be replaced too. This is getting expensive fast.

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You have to purchase your stuff from advanceautoparts.com, and set the option to pick it up in the store. Once you get to your shopping cart, there is a space down below to enter your promo code. You can even place multiple orders to maximize savings. I've done it a bunch of times.

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Looks like I'll be getting the caliper and bracket from Advance. I will probably check Auto Zone for the master cylinder, because online they list one with a reservoir at mine for $30 plus core.

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You dont need a master cylinder.:lol:

 

Get remanned calipers with brackets, rotors, and new brake hoses.

 

Is your ABS light on?? If so, scan it, you may have a solenoid sticking in the ABS unit and its not bleeding off the pressure after you hit the brakes.

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No ABS here.

 

Those rotors aren't even a year old. Can I just get them machined?

 

Also. I can't believe I left this out. The reason I think something's up with the MC is that when we were bleeding the brakes after installing the 'new' RR caliper, when my friend opened the bleeder, we heard this obnoxiously loud squawk from the master cylinder area. Neither he, I nor his parents had heard anything like it.

Edited by white4d96
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