blakngold4life Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 Over the last few weeks my car has started stalling when the rpms get below 800, before it started stalling at this point it would just idle rough and I could tell something was up. I was first thinking this was a gas issue as my friend who goes to the same station has similar problems. After the car is warmed up or I rev it up past 3k a couple times everything seems to act alright. Today it actually stalled out while moving for the first time, previously it was only at stops and I would left foot brake to keep the rpms up. What do you guys think, gas? IAC? fuel pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Iac probably Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 I am curious to see if that would solve your problem. please post the results if you try it because I have been getting the same thing and thinking that too. It would also be a good idea to see what fuel pressure looks like while stalling. but I got a buddy here that says the new IAC is what fixed his car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 remove IAC clean IAC clean IAC port reinstall turn key on for 10 seconds, then start (or do a full idle relearn) otherwise, is your check engine light on? (does it work?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 the check engine light does work, it does not come on while the car is running most of the time, last time i pulled codes all that came up was egr. The part that is throwing me off is that when the car is warmed up the problem resolves, if it where the iac shouldn't it still stall even when warm? Hopefully I will get this resolved this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 the check engine light does work, it does not come on while the car is running most of the time, last time i pulled codes all that came up was egr. The part that is throwing me off is that when the car is warmed up the problem resolves, if it where the iac shouldn't it still stall even when warm? Hopefully I will get this resolved this weekend. I wonder if the EGR is sticking open, causing the code. If it is open a bit, that would definitely cause stalling issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 I wonder if the EGR is sticking open, causing the code. If it is open a bit, that would definitely cause stalling issues. the car has thrown the egr code since we got it 7 years ago and two different motors. First time for it doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 the car has thrown the egr code since we got it 7 years ago and two different motors. First time for it doing this. Oh, OK. Not sure in that case. I'd say IAC, but I'd also expect that to happen regardless of temp. I'd look for something that changes when the ECM goes closed loop. Sorry but I can't think more specifically ATM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 There was a vacuum hose that was unplugged on the tube from the airbox to the intake. car seems to be doing better at idle but havent driven it anywhere yet, this would make sense, I'll let you know for sure when I find out. Also, found out that that it didn't make a difference if the car was warm or not, I still had the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Well, that vacuum hose not attached didn't fix it. Tried some gas treatment today and it seemed to work better, i'm going to drive it for a couple days to see if this helps before i pull the iac out and clean it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 get the fuel pressure tested AS the event happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 get the fuel pressure tested AS the event happens. how do i go about doing that? the only fuel pressure gauge i have is a handheld so I wont be able to use it and drive the car at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 run the tube up to the windshield and lay the face of the gauge on the glass. then close the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 still having the problem after using gas treatment, looks like I'll be cleaning the IAC sometime this week. From what I have read there are two torque bolts (T15 I believe) on it and I can just clean it with simple green, if someone can verify this info for me that would be great. Also if someone has a picture or diagram showing where it is that they could post that would be great, I'm pretty sure I know what I'm looking for but as this is the first time I am having to fix something at school in a parking lot instead of in my parents garage with assistance the more info I can get to make everything go smoothly the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 I've cleaned mine. It is a T15 (IIRC) and its right behind the throttle body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 carb cleaner or brake cleaner would be better. and ream out the hole with a gas soaked paper towel or rag if you don't just remove the whole TB and clean it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Alright, just cleaned it. The first time around the block it still stalled and ran rough below 1000 rpms, second time it acted normal. I'll post back tomorrow after i have more time to drive it and check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 The car seems to be acting normal now, that was a very easy fix. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakngold4life Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 heres an update on this; everything had been working great, until this weekend. same thing began happening again, replaced the IAC this time and things seem to be normal again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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