jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 So, my Cutlass developed a new problem tonight, and I don't quite know what to make of it. The damn thing almost left me stranded at Arby's, but luckily, I was able to limp it home. I was just sitting in the drive-thru, waiting on my food, when it just randomly died. I've never had that happen before, so I suspected the battery at first. However, I threw it in neutral and it fired right back up. After that, I hoped it was just a freak occurrence. Nope! As I began to pull away from the window, it died again. So, I started it right back up and got out of the way of the people behind me. On my way home, it stalled several more times, so I decided to take a video of it when I got back. When I rev it, it just gurgles and pops, and will not seem to go much above 1000 RPM, if at all. The video sucks because it's dark and I shot it with my iPhone, but if you crank up the volume, you can hear the lovely sound of my L82 dying. Any ideas about what might be wrong with this shitbox? I need it back on the road sometime tomorrow, if possible, because I kind of need it to get to work on Wednesday, so any help will be GREATLY appreciated. Alright, on to the video. [video=youtube;qpLv4WVKQcs] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I'd guessing bad injector, weak fuel pump, clogged cat, the planets are not in alignment....... What you're throwing isn't enough to say much.... Is the check Engine light on? (does it work?) DO YOU HAZ A DIGITAL MULTIMETER? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I was thinking it could be something along those lines, but I know it could any of a number of things. The check engine light does work, but it isn't on. And unfortunately, I don't have a multimeter. I may be stuck scratching my head on this one for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Go here and get their digital multimeter... http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF8&q=harbor+freight+lexington+ky&fb=1&gl=us&hq=harbor+freight&hnear=Lexington,+KY&cid=0,0,2713850866220171168&ei=vUqYTLLxN6PhnQey_NSBDw&ved=0CCYQnwIwAQ&ll=38.045404,-84.458385&spn=0.010021,0.022724&t=h&z=16&iwloc=A or some other place that carries decent products.... You need to ohm check your injectors. Fortunately on a 3100 you can do so via the connector on the back on the Upper Intake manifold where the injection harness meets the engine harness. Once we get the pinouts you can probe and see if you have any injector out of the 11.7-12.5 ohm range... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Well, I just went out and drove it around the block a few times, and it ran perfectly fine. Of course it would have to be one of those intermittent problems. Maybe that will at least make it possible for me to run down to Harbor Freight tomorrow and pick up a multimeter. Then, hopefully I can figure out what I'm doing enough to ohm check the injectors. I've never messed with a wiring harness of any sort, so I guess we'll see how it goes. I really need to learn my way around this engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 ok. it's not that bad, and any of can walk you though it. harbor frieght should have their meters on sale for under $5 right now... but it is a cheaper meter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 It sounds simple enough. It's all just a matter of figuring out exactly where to do the ohm check, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. And when it comes to the multimeter, cheap is exactly what my broke ass needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I had a 6000 once that would do this, turned out to be a PCM issue. Now we're talking apples and oranges here, but maybe that could be an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I would imagine that's also possible. I don't know if that would throw a code or not. Whatever it is, I'm not getting a check engine light, yet it seems to be an electrical problem in some way, so I definitely won't rule that out. My fuel pump seems to priming properly, so I think I'll start with the fuel injectors and go from there. The PCM is the last thing I want to replace ATM, but we'll see just how much of a bitch this car is going to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I just find it really weird that it's dying but not pulling a MIL. I've had injectors shit the bed and they've all resulted in thrown codes. Unless there's crud in your fuel lines causing pressure issues, causing the motor to lean way out and die? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Yeah, it's a pretty odd problem. I've never experienced anything like this with any of my vehicles, which is why I decided to post this thread and hopefully get some advice. I've gotten the check engine light a couple of times in this car, so I can't imagine why I'm not getting it now, but it's hard to say. I'm just going to mess with it until I figure out what's going on. That's really the only thing to do in this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds as though the problem started after you had been sitting idling for a little, and then cleared up after the car had not been running for a while? I'd guess the ICM or coil packs based on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I was going to suggest the TPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 that ALMOST sounds like a lean pop.... but it's in no way loud enough for me to be 100%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 (edited) Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds as though the problem started after you had been sitting idling for a little, and then cleared up after the car had not been running for a while? I'd guess the ICM or coil packs based on that. You are correct. It happened after idling for quite a while. Then it kept dying on my way home. And, since the button for my hazard light has been missing since I bought the car, that got pretty interesting. Now, it seems to be running almost normally. Even when it's running like it is now, it runs a bit rough and tends to stumble over itself at times. I was going to suggest the TPS. That was my initial thought when it started revving like that, but that will definitely be one of the last things I replace because, from what I'm seeing at least, they aren't cheap for this car. that ALMOST sounds like a lean pop.... but it's in no way loud enough for me to be 100%. That would make sense, however, this car has always had a tendency to run rich. I don't know why I didn't think to mention this last night, but it has been stumbling over itself intermittently for a couple of months now, and running very rich. I was hoping it would throw a code for me, but no such luck. Edited September 21, 2010 by jreed10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 do you have a friednly j/y near you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I've never been to one around here, but there are a few. I just scanned the car, just to be sure, and it definitely isn't throwing any codes. It is also running better than it has in a long while. Also, I just checked my oil, and it smells like gas. Wonderful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 How many miles on the oil? You are going to get some gas-like smell in the oil when you're getting close to needing a change, but it shouldn't smell like you dumped straight up gas into your crankcase. If that was the case, change it now. And by now, I mean right the hell now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 The oil has about 7,000 miles on it, so it does need to be changed, but the smell and consistency isn't that bad. I just have bigger things to worry about right now, with this new problem arising. I can't afford to fix whatever is wrong with the car AND do an oil change, so one or the other has to be neglected for the moment, no matter how much I hate to do that. I'm usually good about keeping up on my maintenance, but being out of work for a little while really set me back. I also can't do my own oil changes anymore, because I live in a decently big apartment complex, and property management would have a huge bitch fit if I did that in the parking lot. I really wish I had never moved to this damned place. I need a garage, especially when I'm trying to DD a 13-year-old shitbox. I'm a little concerned now, though. I have never had oil smell like this. I was thinking that it may be a side-effect of it running so rich lately. I'm averaging 14.7 mpg. Even though all of it is city driving, something is definitely wrong there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 What the mother fuck?! An up-stream oxygen sensor for this car is $60, and a TPS is $50. You have to be fucking kidding me! Dammit, I need a better job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 ROCKAUTO! denso upstream O2 for $35 and a TPS for $23. and since those are so light and small, expect shipping to be cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 The oxygen sensor is $39.89 shipped from RockAuto, so I'm definitely going that route. It still seems expensive, compared to what I recall paying for the one I replaced on my old Camaro, but that's fine. I'll also ohm check my fuel injectors tomorrow, as I didn't make it to Harbor Freight today. Then, after I get my paycheck on Friday, I'll go ahead and do an oil change in my parking lot (property management can kiss my ass). It's time for the Cutlass to get some much-needed love. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Then, after I get my paycheck on Friday, I'll go ahead and do an oil change in my parking lot (property management can kiss my ass) Yeah, it shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes to do an oil change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreed10 Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Yeah, I went to Valvoline, and they wanted $40 for an oil change. Screw that. I don't like having strangers work on my car, anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Yeah, I went to Valvoline, and they wanted $40 for an oil change. Screw that. I don't like having strangers work on my car, anyway. The hell with that. Most parts stores have oil change specials going on. I know advance did when I was there the last three times (in as many days) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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