Stevo Posted September 16, 2010 Report Posted September 16, 2010 So my bearing started to hum REALLY loud to the point where I could notice the difference from day to day. I picked up a new one. We pulled the wheel, brakes, disconnected the sensor. Removed the 3 hub bearing bolts and after some work on the bearing housing got it free from the knuckle. Then the fun started... The axle nut was a BITCH to get off. After a serious workout we got it off. Then we tried using a puller to dislodge the bearing from the axle splines ... IT WONT BUDGE AT ALL. In fact while cranking on the 3-claw puller central screw, the puller exploded into pieces. I think the puller was just a piece of shit ... it is now. Anyone have an idea how to get this thing off? I did both sides of the Cutlass I had almost 4 years ago the same way and it was easy as pie. Is there something I am missing like a bolt or something else that GM added to the removal procedure that' keeping this motherf***er in? I'm checking out the ARRC link and I did everything as per the listed instructions. Anyone know what I am doing wrong? Quote
digitaloutsider Posted September 16, 2010 Report Posted September 16, 2010 You live in a salty climate? I had no problems on my '01 Regal LS. Quote
jman093 Posted September 16, 2010 Report Posted September 16, 2010 We need a bigger [slide] hammer. Quote
Stevo Posted September 16, 2010 Author Report Posted September 16, 2010 There is a considerable amount of discoloration inside. I suspect rust but there's no scaling present. Quote
Stevo Posted September 16, 2010 Author Report Posted September 16, 2010 We need a bigger [slide] hammer. Yeah... I think they have that exact kit at Princess Auto. Quote
IRONDOG442 Posted September 16, 2010 Report Posted September 16, 2010 run the big nut back on the end of the propellor shaft covering and protecting the threads and hit with 12 to 15 pound sledge hammer to break it free like i do, i have had this nightmare of a job require me to replace a half shaft because of this exact same problem. Quote
Stevo Posted September 17, 2010 Author Report Posted September 17, 2010 Not to say your idea was bad. I tried that today after buying a replacement nut and we bashed the hell out of it after pulling the whole deal away from the knuckle about 1/4" and putting shims behind it. It was mashed by an 8lb hammer which was the largest we could find. Also ... I cant find a slide hammer in this town for sale if my life depended on it. The thing is on there good. I'm gonna hit up a buddy of mine and see if he has any connections. Two days and still not fixed. I have classes all day and I'm ignoring my homework. Thank god there is nothing to be handed in. =X Quote
Stevo Posted September 17, 2010 Author Report Posted September 17, 2010 Also... now that I got to thinking. If the splines on the axle have expanded into the bearing ... how much of a nightmare will it be to put the NEW one on? =X Quote
Addicted to eaton Posted September 17, 2010 Report Posted September 17, 2010 i just used a big hammer like rob said. Some can be a bitch (like my 1997 gtp) took like 4 hours. Quote
Stevo Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 I pounded on it like it was a goddamn rail road spike. They have 2 and 7 ton 3 jaw pullers at Princess Auto but the goddamn things are on a boat in China as per their inventory. Quote
dodgethis Posted September 18, 2010 Report Posted September 18, 2010 Stevo do you have rear rotors? Quote
Stevo Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Posted September 21, 2010 Yes. I think all W's had rear rotors unless someone can correct me. On a side side side note. =X I bought a slide hammer and worked on it for a bit and then switched to the 'pusher pin' that centers on the wheel and pulls the bearing with it's lugs outward from the axle using a central pivot. Well the threads on the central pin SHEARED off and the central pin was free to spin. I essentially broke a tool that should not break in it's intended purpose. When I brought back the slide hammer to Napa. They will not guarantee the tool and they will not warranty the broken part stating that it was broken to misuse. WTF? Don't buy anything from NAPA folks. Quote
WhatTheFehl Posted September 21, 2010 Report Posted September 21, 2010 Base model 1.5 for sure and I think base model 2nd gens as well had rear drums. Quote
White93z34 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Posted September 21, 2010 In the event of REALLY stuck axles I'll put the nut on about halfway, and put a towel over it then i will tap the 35/36mm axle nut socket over the towel so it has a firm fit on the axle nut then go apeshit with a BFH (talking 10lbs) Its my "suspension tool" Quote
AL Posted September 26, 2010 Report Posted September 26, 2010 Base model 1.5 for sure and I think base model 2nd gens as well had rear drums. I dont believe any second gens came with drums Quote
AL Posted October 2, 2010 Report Posted October 2, 2010 Nope, the only w to get drums was the 1.5 gen cars and then it was only the base model ones... My Monte Carlo had disc though Quote
LuminaPower92 Posted October 2, 2010 Report Posted October 2, 2010 Ive seen ltz' and ls' with drums Quote
dodgethis Posted October 2, 2010 Report Posted October 2, 2010 FWIW I love my Drums. They just shutup and do their job. Wheel bearings, and replacing a clanging brake pad are my problem child's right now. Quote
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