GP1138 Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 I've got a good alternator and battery. The battery died on me this weekend coming back from a 90 mile trip. Nothing left on. Today I got home from work and took a look with my DMM. My alt is putting out a good 14v. Because I've run a seperate charge wire from the alternator to the positive post, I can check the alternator output independent of the charging system, and when I disconnect it the alt puts out full power. However, when I reconnect it to the system via the positive post or the battery positive terminal, it then stops and the DMM just reads battery voltage. WTF???? Bad ground? Fuse? ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 You should test the output of the alternator with an ammeter. The voltage regulator can cause the alternator to appear to have good voltage when in reality it's barely putting out any amps. I've seen this quite a few times with other cars; and had the alt only giving out 2A which isn't even enough to run the radio. Otherwise you could try cleaning all connections with a wire brush and alcohol wipes; just coat them with dielectric grease after reassembly to keep out moisture and corrosion. Hopefully the battery wasn't bone dead they're never the same after a complete discharge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 http://www.econofix.com/alt.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 When I started the car this morning, going out to start trying to diag some more, it appeared to start charging again. However, it then stopped after about a minute. I also discovered a DEI security system alarm wired in, with fuses pulled and the control box removed, it was in the center console. It doesn't appear to have any relation to this problem, but I figured it's worth a mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 When I started the car this morning, going out to start trying to diag some more, it appeared to start charging again. However, it then stopped after about a minute. I also discovered a DEI security system alarm wired in, with fuses pulled and the control box removed, it was in the center console. It doesn't appear to have any relation to this problem, but I figured it's worth a mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Keep in mind, those are wired PARALLEL to the oem wiring. They only wire that is ever cut is the starter wire (if the equipment has starter disable and is an alarm). But even then, most installers will not cut the starter wire. Too much liability issues to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Just to have this down completed, fixed with the following: New threaded side posts. Original charge wire (since I determined that wasn't what was killing the volt regulators) And with BXX and Ken's help we bypassed the ECM and just wired the L-terminal directly to the Instrument Cluster idiot light as it was in '95. Now pulling 13.6-14.2 at idle. THANKS EVERYONE IN DAYTON WHO HELPED!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 thats good to hear. Lets home it last this time right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) FFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11510888/IMG_1153.MOV I've purchased a battery-to-engine ground strap to see if this might be the issue. I can't imagine what else it could be other than bad wiring in the engine harness somewhere. Edited September 19, 2010 by GP1138 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 its doing this shit again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 It'll charge when sitting still. But when I start ROLLING at all it'll go down to batt voltage. I'm stumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Replaced negative cable; ran it to where I ran the chassis ground on the transmission (is this a bad place?) - NO GO. Still no charge while rolling. I'm utterly lost here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruktosk Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Is your belt tight and in good condition? There isn't a lot of play in it is there? If it charges at idle, but not under load it sounds like the belt might be slipping on the alt pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highmilagecutlass Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Is your belt tight and in good condition? There isn't a lot of play in it is there? If it charges at idle, but not under load it sounds like the belt might be slipping on the alt pulley. I agree with Ruktosk , it sounds like the belt is slipping but that would effect your power steering pump and water pump as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 I replaced the belt yesterday. No go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 hows the belt tension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Replaced negative cable; ran it to where I ran the chassis ground on the transmission (is this a bad place?) - NO GO. Still no charge while rolling. I'm utterly lost here. that is correct however the block to the battery tray carries the main grounding signals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 is your exciter wire exciting the alt to charge correctly? a good alternator/battery garage could diagnose and fix this problem in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Of course now that I say anything I take it on a good jaunt and beat the shit out of it and it's solid 14v the whole way. This fucking car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_b Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 Have you checked the thermistor for the battery? It's on an orange wire I believe near the battery (it's been a while since I had my aurora). I'm assuming we're talking about the aurora? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 1996 cutlass 3.4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 is your exciter wire exciting the alt to charge correctly? a good alternator/battery garage could diagnose and fix this problem in no time. So, the current wire wrapped around the CV shaft, forcing me to replace it. Bundled it properly back so it won't do that again, and now it's charging at a constant 14v with lights, heater, radio, etc running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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