birdman Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 You put the bleeders on the bottom right? Haha, no don't do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 You put the bleeders on the bottom right? Haha, no don't do that. i ALMOST did... then i thought it looked wrong, and swapped back to the other caliper. it would have been nice if they labeled them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 i ALMOST did... then i thought it looked wrong, and swapped back to the other caliper. it would have been nice if they labeled them. uh..... THEY ARE LABELED. it's in the writing on the casting!!! I found a GP in the junkyard with the calipers on the wrong side.... Somebody really fucked up!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 i can't read any of the casting marks, they're all kinds of rusted over/through/out. i chipped off a lot of it, but i can only make out a few large numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 welll... driver's side is on, and i have a vague connection with the e-brake, pics incoming. it seems....... wrong, to me. in the meantime, i'll be dealing with the other side until someone explains what it should look like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 the driver's cable must be routed to the caliper and held in place with a ziptie. the passenger side cable must be routed from in front of the gastank to behind the tank where it will run into the side of the new caliper.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 so..... that side is correct? and the passenger side has a totally different e-brake end than the driver's side, it looks very similar to the kind the 94-96 had, is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 mmm crusty Fuck rusty cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 it's a good example of why rust-belt cars are FTL... i was making good progress.... then it started raining. but i did manage to chip off a few pounds of rust though.i've never seen it accumulate that thickly before. i swear some stuff went to half of it's observed thickness by the time i hammered my way down to actual metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 I saw no pics earlier.. you are CLOSE, but not there.... make the cable run THROUGH the eyelet hole where the oem cable was, and zip tie the end. same on the opposite side, run it though the eyelet hole. GOOD GOD THOSE HOSES LOOK LIKE DEATH!!! and I'm not sure they are routed the best way yet..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 i'm not sure if the cable is long enough to get through the bracket... especially with that angle(unless you mean just the cable itself, not the little part that would retain it there).... unless i need to get more slack via the e-brake equalizer? i don't know if that is even functional anymore, a lot of it looked rusted solid. and pretty much everything on the underside looks like death. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 it should be doable.... I've done it. You might have to re route the driver's cable slightly to give it an extra inch or two... but don't worry about the adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 untwist that brake hose or the brakes arent gonna work real well:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 at the moment, i can't find a way to route the line without a shitload of twists and bends AND have the connector hook up correctly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 my progress thus far... the only thing preventing me from calling it finished are two things: i broke through one of the brake lines while removing the heat shield for the gas tank, so i have to fix that tomorrow before bleeding, and the e-brake needs adjusted BADLY. the driver's side is tighter than my pants at a titty bar and the passenger side feels like parachute pants. so i have to figure out how this magical adjuster works before hitting the road since i really don't feel like having the left rear rotor warping on me due to the e-brake sticking on. i FINALLY got the driver'sside cable to hook up after i pulled it out of it's guides and then removed the e-brake bracket from the caliper, soved it through the hole, then pulled like hell trying to get the bolt to thread. worked, just a PITA. pics, for your enjoyment and/or to make suggestions as to how i should drive this heap off of a cliff. just the driver's side for now, it was the only one that had the wheel off when i had my camera, but the passenger side is due soon. shiny. shows brakeline routing and a good idea as to how the e-brake runs. primarily for brake line. i can't seem to remove it's rusted on retainer... ghetto connection and severely compressed spring. passenger side e-brake routing. cancer. and showing the relative slack between cables. more routing. what i broke, other than potentially killing the top half of the fuel tank as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 You should invest in a cancer free car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 i should just shoot myself and hasten my demise, not let this rusted shitpile do it for me. i'd like to find something rust free, but a 1st gen that's not already loaded with it? that's much farther south than i want to travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 I know theres a few around me, but even then thats a good drive for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 FINAL UPDATE: well, after a few rounds of bleeding, i finally got all 4 corners working again, previously, only the left side was grabbing.... BTW: bleeding the lines at the master cylinder? AWESOME idea if the resivoir had run dry. all 4 of those got just a LITTLE more pedal each time. then the final change was the left rear caliper(which previously was already working great???), when two big air bubbles popped out after the misses stepped on the pedal and i opened the bleeder... what was strange was that the right side didn't seem to have any air in it, but those ones didn't work? oh well. holy hell does this car actually stop now.... i don't know if it's due to not having rear brakes for so long, but damn do they seem grabby now.... i went and broke them in via 10 30-5MPH moderate stops, i had to pause after 6 though since they started smelling hot, then a few miles down the road i finished out the 10 and rolled back around into town... a note on the e-brake: i CANNOT get the right side to work properly, there is just way too much cable for it to actuate the caliper, all it does is remove some slack when the pedal is pressed. i don't know if that can be taken care of via the adjuster, but the left side works damn well, if only i could get the pedal to actually ratchet to hold the car in place in neutral. if i had to do this all over again..... new calipers and brackets or fuck it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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