1996 Sedan front suspension/steering issue

[white4d96]

I have a 1996 SE sedan, 3.1, base suspension, boring crap like that. It has recent ball joints (June this year), brand new outer tie rod ends (last sunday) and a huge issue.

 

My friend and I 'aligned' the car by test driving and adjusting until the wheel was straight (rear suspension being redone this weekend so holding off on an actual alignment until then.) We had it perfect (being a relative term) and locked down, but when I left, I hit a bump and the wheel went off alignment again. This has been story of my life since. The wheel will be cocked to one side, and randomly the car will shoot off in that direction, as something keeps changing so the 'center' position of the wheel changes. I also noticed it affects drift too, i.e. if the wheel is cocked left it drifts HARD left (I can take light corners by letting go of wheel.) I also noticed a very low pop/clunk noise from the front right suspension.

 

I can't think of any possible issues other than something with the steering rack, inner tie rod, or maybe a strut mount? That strut was twisted when I had a ball joint fail in June, but it hasn't been this bad until just recently, which also baffles me. Could it just be a bad alignment? I wouldn't see how it would keep changing though.

 

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

[Crazy K]

wheel straight =/= correct toe. you've got a couple of degrees of random toe stuck in because you adjusted the wheels to give you an average toe thrust of zero and you hit any slick spot or running crummy soft tires and the car will do what you describe... and that is assuming that nothing else is loose or worn out.

 

While toe thrust should be nearly ZERO, Total Toe is within one degree of zero(or 1/2 degree?). that mean the car should go straight with the steering wheel straight and the tires are practically parallel

 

DO NOT WORRY ABOUT WHEEL BEING STRAIGHT. WORRY ABOUT FRONT TIRES BEING PARALLEL. You can to this with two people and a tape measure. you measure under the car in front and behind the front wheels (avoid catching tape on frame when measuring) and see if they are parallel by selecting and measuring a row of thread on one to the other tire. Repeat the measurement a few times and if you see a difference THEN adjust the tirerods till the tires are parallel. if you are seeing less than 1/4th inch of difference you are close enough.

Edited September 3, 2010 by Crazy K

[white4d96]

Thanks so much. I was seriously about to tear the rack out thinking that was my problem, but it is as you described. Good thing I'm getting an alignment after I put new lat arms and a spring in the back.

[alec_b]

An alignment is not something that should be done in your back yard. Yes, the tape measure routine will get it CLOSE, enough to get it to a professional to have them do a 4 wheel alignment.

 

Get it close, finish up the rear suspension, and spend $80 bucks to have it done right.

[Crazy K]

I agree.... but my last tape measure alignment was so good the shop said my alignment was fine.... but I am very good at it.

[white4d96]

Hopefully I will get the rear suspension buttoned up this week, then I will take it in for alignment.

 

I just hope this CS spring fixes my ride height...