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For audio guru's: need an amp.


alec_b

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Well I'm in a pickle. I picked up 2 JL Audio 12w6v2's at the pawn shop the other day, in a VERY nice and solid sealed box for $160 bucks. Absolute steal. They're the dual 4-ohm model and they're each wired to 2-ohms. I tested them in my friends car on a hifonics 1500 watt @ 1-ohm mono amp and they sound AMAZING.

 

Here's my problem: I can't decide on an amp to power these things! Trying to find a 1-ohm stable amp that's reliable and affordable is tough. The aforementioned Hifonics is "rated" at 1500 at 1-ohm, but I don't believe it will actually run that load day in and day out at the volume I prefer.

 

My other option is to run 2 smaller amp's at 2-ohms each. I like this idea better, as it will run the amp's more efficiently yet draw hopefully less or equal current to a single huge amp at 1-ohm. For this I actually have an amp in mind, the Alpine MRP-M500. A different friend has one in his car pushing 2 12" polk subs and it really does a good job.

 

The subs are rated @ 600 watts RMS each, so I think 500 should be right in their range. I know they can handle a lot more, the Hifonics I tested them was putting out probably closer to 700 RMS but I'd rather not start blowing things up, and 1k watts of total power is enough for me.

 

If anyone has any other suggestions for an amp, that'd be great. I'm looking right around a max of $300, whether it be one or two amps. That's what I can get the Alpine's for so if there's nothing better I'll just use those.

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elemental designs has a sale going on right now on their nine.1. rated at 1200 rms at 1 ohm and 12.5 volts. 250 bucks. not a bad deal for a decent amp

 

i also have one i could sell you with little, if any, warranty left for like 200

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You're going to be much better off running one monoblock amp. A 1 ohm stable monoblock amp is going to be MUCH more efficient then a 2 channel class A/B amp. Plus most A/B amps are not capable of being bridged down to 2 ohm. Also its easier to tune one amp then it is to try and get two amps tuned the exact same way. Not to mention ease of install, only one power and ground wire, one set of rcas, etc.

 

Hifonics is a pretty good brand for the price, and they dont seem to inflate their numbers to much. Just remember to look for RMS ratings not max. Memphis makes great amps but they may be a little out of your price range. I have not had any personal experience with Elemental Designs, but they have been around for awhile now and ive always heard good things.

Oh and $160 is a STEAL for those subs. I believe those retailed new for around $400-500 a piece.

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This JUST popped up on my local tuner forum. Kick ass amp.

 

 

As title states American Bass VFL 120.1 this is a serious amp 0 guage power and grounds. They retail for over 500 I had a pair of these to push 6 15s but I have sold those woofers and only need one of these amps so I am cutting a deal to get rid of this one asap it has less than 2 hours of total use and is in mint condition here is a link to AB's website,

Let me know if your interested Thanks 300$

http://americanbassusa.com/front/showcontent.aspx?fileid=295

 

vfl1201001.jpg

vfl1201005.jpg

vfl1201006.jpg

vfl1201007.jpg

vfl1201013.jpg

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Woah that american bass amp is huge! But that's like twice the power i need.

 

Addicted2Bass - I wasn't going to run a 2 channel amp to power them, I would ONLY use a class D amp for subs. I was trying to decide whether to run 1 large mono amp (eg. the nine.1) or two smaller mono amps (eg. the MRP-M500's). That ED amp looks really tempting, though. It puts out rated power at 12.5 volts rather than 14.4 which is a big selling point for a stock charging system.

 

I plan on doing the big 3 upgrade first and foremost, I can't BELIEVE how tiny the alternator-battery wire is on these cars! What is it like 8 gauge at best? What a joke! I've got a bunch of 8 gauge wire lying around, I'm going to add a second run from the alternator to the battery and redo the grounds also. I think I'm going to run 0 gauge for the power wires just to make sure that ED amp gets all the juice it wants. I don't plan on pounding this thing 24/7, I just want to be able to blow the doors off once in a while when I want to show off.

 

As soon as I get back from vacation and get my pay check I'm going to be ordering the wiring and the nine.1. After reading reviews and comparisons, including bench tests, I think it's the best bet for what I need.

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if you're going to run new wires, run 0awg from the alt to the battery as well.

 

american bass makes some seriously powerful shit. i have three vfl150.1s. i had one running4 8" subs at something like 2500 daily.

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If I had the cash, or the need for the amp, I would have already purchased it. Worth every penny of his asking price.

 

He also has for 10" American Bass subs (I forget which model # off the top of my head) in a nicely designed SPL box up on the local craigslist as well. Asking $1k.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I finally got everything installed. I ended up getting the ED nine.1 and all I can say is WOW. This thing packs a punch. I have it wired with 1/0 gauge wires and it just LOVES the juice. I only have the gain turned up about 1/3 if that, bass boost off, crossed over at 100hz, and all I can say is this is simply the LOUDEST system I've ever had in any vehicle.

 

I have enough wire left over to take care of the Big 3 upgrade too, just gotta get to the parts store and pick up a few 0-gauge ring terminals and I'll be good to go. I'm getting some serious dimming at idle, although my volt gauge still doesn't drop very low. I can tell the PCM is commanding the idle up to compensate though, if I let it beat hard and then turn it down the RPM's jump up about 100 and then settle back down to ~670 where it usually sits.

 

All in all, very VERY happy with the outcome.

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you should have the crossover set at 80hz or below. i usually cross at 60

 

big three will help, but dont count on it completely fixing the problem. you might consider upgrading your alternator. also wouldn't hurt to add an extra battery

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I had the LPF turned down that low, I'm still playing with it but I know that 60 is too low. This box seems to hit pretty well up into some of the higher ranges, but I may still back it off down to 80hz.

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I turned it down to 80 today. Helped clear it up a bit. I can't set the HPF down that low for the mids, I get distortion out of my speakers at the volume I like to listen to and the music I listen to with the HPF at anything lower than 100hz. Keep in mind the speakers are still powered by the HU and not an external amp, so I have a small amount of power to work with.

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  • 2 weeks later...

back when I ran a 2 way component set i had the subs play to 80 hz :) now that I run a set of mid woofers as well (in the doors) 60 hz it is for the subs. Anyhow, glad you're happy with the setup, that is a great budget amp, and you got a KILLER deal on those jl's!

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wait till you hear a W-7 hitting below 20Hz. that amp simply would not be able to tune that low. neither of those amps would.

 

 

you better get the Big -5 done soon though. or you will trash your battery and blow your alt.

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wait till you hear a W-7 hitting below 20Hz. that amp simply would not be able to tune that low. neither of those amps would.

 

 

you better get the Big -5 done soon though. or you will trash your battery and blow your alt.

 

Isn't 20hz the limit of human hearing?

 

Sent from my HTC Magic using Tapatalk

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The big three is coming, I have plenty of 0 gauge left over to do the upgrade. Just gotta buy some 0-gauge ring terminals. Yes, my lights DIM, but I usually only turn it up when the RPM's are up and the alt. is putting out good power. I turn it down at lights and when I'm sitting still.

 

I just have to say, it is LOUD. Just for shit and giggles I turned it up when I was sitting still on a really low song and actually pulled the volt gauge down to the red. Obviously I turned it down right away, but it kind of made me laugh.

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