96 GTP wont start, potential Vats failure

[yackel]

I have a 96 GTP. Ive had this car for about 3 yrs now and have only been able to keep it running and moving long enough to put 2k miles on it in that time period. Its latest and greatest problem is about a yr ago I stopped at a gas station shut the car off and went in and I come back out turned the key and nothing, dash nights come on but no solenoid click or anything. So I trailered it home and tried the obvious stuff like starter, ignition switch, and what not to no success. The last time I tried working on it I was able to get it to start and run for all of a second before it shut back off, by taking a screw driver and jumping across the starter solenoid. I then noticed the Anti theft light was not on so I cycled the key again and it never come on. So how would one determine if it was a issue with the pellet in the key not being read or the module itself taking a crap.

 

I was searching thru the forum for some info on the matter and come across this thread

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/39065-No-More-VATS!!?highlight=vats+module

 

after reading that it could be disabled if it was the module that was bad could this be done and remove the headache all together. If so can it only be done with the software mentioned in that thread or could something like a Snap-On Modis be used to disable the Vats system. If its not the module itself Ill just to the resistor trick I read about in a different thread where it bypasses the reader all together.

 

Thanks for reading my ten mile long post. Any input/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Brian

[Crazy K]

I would fix or replace the module....

 

I actually can sell you a good module with a working resistor bypass.... or a new key if you need it...

[slick]

A cheap way to see if it is the chip or the module- Do the resistor mod. If that doesn't work, you most likely have a bad module.

[yackel]

I went out and metered the wires from the key switch in that orange coating with no key in the ignition then put the key in then turned it to the run position and noticed no change on the ohm meter. So Im guessing that I either have a broken wire or the contacts that touch the key are dirty.

[Crazy K]

I went out and metered the wires from the key switch in that orange coating with no key in the ignition then put the key in then turned it to the run position and noticed no change on the ohm meter. So Im guessing that I either have a broken wire or the contacts that touch the key are dirty.

very likely. I;ve seen the wires near the key cylinder break because they sometimes contact the levers of the "key in the ignition" sensor. Everytime you turn the key the wire rubs if it is in the right position. I stick a piece of wiring installation over the lever (without covering the contact)to prevent damage from occurring

[Breakdown]

I had a similar problem.

 

Turned out it was the key. I have one good key, one okay key, and one you'll be stranded at least 1% of the time key (those are bad odds actually).

 

I just avoid using those keys anymore and just try and use the good one.

[yackel]

I got the resistor thing but in and it fired right up and ran fine after sitting for a year. Thanks guys for the help. Now does anybody has any ideas why first gear and reverse slips when its cold then shifts just fine after it warms up? Any input would be appreciated.

[AL]

Check fluid level with the car running in park

[RobertISaar]

sitting for long periods of time can cause issues like that...

 

as al suggested: check fluid level, in park, with the trans hot, then try to break it in a little and see if it starts acting normally again.

[yackel]

I Checked the fluid and everything was good. It did this before it got parked the problem stems back to shortly (less than a week) after I bought the car the power steering pump went out of it and the dealer fixed it kind of, while they had it I had them flush the cooling system and the transmission. First problem was they replaced the rack and pinion instead of replacing the obviously trashed power steering pump but we come to an agreement on that but thats besides the point. When they flushed the transmission they ran alcohol thru it then never took it out. I didnt catch it right away until it slipped pulling away from a stop light on the way to work, then I called them and gave them the what for and they said to bring it back at which point I told them to shove the whole car where the sun dont shine and that I wasnt bringing it back for them to work on because they would just screw sumthing else up. Because when they replaced the rack they cross threaded every lug nut when they put the wheels back on and I had to replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies and buy new lug nuts. But since then I have changed the fluid and filter repaired a line to a accumulator in the transmission that was suppose to be a pressed in deal and it was loose and replaced the o rings on the 1 to 2 shift piston I think it was. It has gotten alot better than it was when I started, I can atleast drive it now just have to take off when its cold with the 2nd gear start thing on and wait til it warms up then switch it back and it shifts hard when I put it in either drive or reverse when it changes direction. Thanks for all your input and help guys maybe someday ill have a car that I can drive all over creation and not have to worry about it breaking down like it has a history of doing. I hate to just get rid of it because of the amount of money I have invested in this car. On top of that I wont be able to replace it for anything comparable for the money. There is zero rust in the body, the body was perfectly straight until it got hit just enough to push the fender into the door, and it is due for an oil change now and the oil is perfectly clean like the day I put it in 2 or 3 yrs ago. Just shows how little I have got to drive this car I've owned it for 2 or 3 yrs now and its just now due miles wise for an oil change.