thinking about buying this **UPDATED**

[White93z34]

Whatever you choose find something that has not had a good portion of its sheetmetal go back to the earth from whence it came. I am so done with rot boxes anymore.

 

Yeah rockers are one thing, then its broken bolts, then its blown fuel/brake lines, then rotten fuel tanks. then rotting gas door areas, strut towers, then the trailing arm mounts rust off. It never ends.

Edited August 16, 2010 by White93z34

[IRONDOG442]

Try fixing something 75 years old!

[3pt1lumina]

Trailering arm broken or is it rotted away from the body of the car? If it is broken, it's an easy fix. If it's rotted just forget it. If the Z34 is rust free but beat, use the parts from the LS on the Z34 and junk the LS. If the Z34 is a roach in terms of rot, forget it all.

 

And if the GP has bad rockers you could always buy it and run it until it falls apart, then part it out. One way or another, I'd not buy any thing in front of you and wait until something better comes along. How bad do you need a car? Do you still have the truck?

[douellette]

Trailering arm broken or is it rotted away from the body of the car? If it is broken, it's an easy fix. If it's rotted just forget it. If the Z34 is rust free but beat, use the parts from the LS on the Z34 and junk the LS. If the Z34 is a roach in terms of rot, forget it all.

 

And if the GP has bad rockers you could always buy it and run it until it falls apart, then part it out. One way or another, I'd not buy any thing in front of you and wait until something better comes along. How bad do you need a car? Do you still have the truck?

 

on the ls i think it broke from the body. but i havnt really looked over the cars either.

 

im hoping on selling the truck this week, so thats how soon i need a car.

 

as far as rockers on the GP, i was told you could just use some sheet metal to cover the opening where the rocker panel used to be.

[occupant]

I'd rather buy an impound auction car. It's a crapshoot just the same, but it costs less. I'm 4 for 6 on good ones thus far.

 

1994: 1986 Mercury Lynx $60, replaced one tire, taught myself to drive stick, sold for $350 (also needed brakes, muffler, but I didn't do those)

1994: 1980 Honda Civic $40, had 9 packs of cigs in it, timing belt broken, sold for $50 for scrap (also was rusted beyond repair)

1995: 1987 Plymouth Turismo $90, had some tools and goodies in it, shift cable jammed, sold for $75 for scrap (could have fixed but was easier to scavange and release)

1997: 1982 Datsun 210 wagon $65, was impounded for expired tags, perfect condition, no rust, sold for $600 (I did replace 4 tires for $99 special, did front brake pads, put in a radio)

2000: 1989 Plymouth Voyager $275, 5-speed minivan, drove it for a few thousand miles, then eng/trans mounts broke, sold for $275 for scrap (drove it into junkyard, never fixed anything)

2010: 1990 Olds Cutlass Ciera $225, runs and drives, needs a radiator, leaks trans fluid, and steering column broke (still have this one, working on it, drive it daily)

[douellette]

I'd rather buy an impound auction car. It's a crapshoot just the same, but it costs less. I'm 4 for 6 on good ones thus far.

 

1994: 1986 Mercury Lynx $60, replaced one tire, taught myself to drive stick, sold for $350 (also needed brakes, muffler, but I didn't do those)

1994: 1980 Honda Civic $40, had 9 packs of cigs in it, timing belt broken, sold for $50 for scrap (also was rusted beyond repair)

1995: 1987 Plymouth Turismo $90, had some tools and goodies in it, shift cable jammed, sold for $75 for scrap (could have fixed but was easier to scavange and release)

1997: 1982 Datsun 210 wagon $65, was impounded for expired tags, perfect condition, no rust, sold for $600 (I did replace 4 tires for $99 special, did front brake pads, put in a radio)

2000: 1989 Plymouth Voyager $275, 5-speed minivan, drove it for a few thousand miles, then eng/trans mounts broke, sold for $275 for scrap (drove it into junkyard, never fixed anything)

2010: 1990 Olds Cutlass Ciera $225, runs and drives, needs a radiator, leaks trans fluid, and steering column broke (still have this one, working on it, drive it daily)

 

online auctions or what? what are some good ones?

[jimmyfloyd]

http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/auctionsearch.cgi?month=&year=&txtSearchRadius=30&txtSearchZip=04259&txtSearchKeywords=&idxSearchCategory=0

[douellette]

alright well didnt find anything on the auctions.

 

so do you guys say nay on both deals? i realy only have the rest of this week to find a car.

[AL]

500 bucks for a 99 GP is a damn good deal... Unless your going to be doing a bunch of suspension stuff, the rust really wouldnt bother me, just check the mounts and stuff

[douellette]

500 bucks for a 99 GP is a damn good deal... Unless your going to be doing a bunch of suspension stuff, the rust really wouldnt bother me, just check the mounts and stuff

 

well i know it needs the rear struts, cause it doesnt pass the jounce test. the filler neck is kinda rusty, the rear brake lines are rusty, all the rotors should be replaced, the driver side tie rod separated from the inner somehow and broke the boot on the cv shaft, 1 tire is bald and flat (pass front), and the rockers are rusty.

[occupant]

No. AuctionZip isn't going to have towing and impound and abandoned vehicle auctions. Those don't even get advertised in the newspapers anymore, let alone online.

 

If you want to find the impound auctions in your area, you'll have to make phone calls. Call the police departments for every town and village around you. Ask if they have an impound lot and when the next auction is. That and/or they may contract out to private tow companies which will have storage lots as well. Then call all the towing companies you haven't already spoken to or found out about and ask THEM when their auctions are. The internet is fairly useless for this because too many jackwagons have decided to "sell" the information to you.

 

If you were in DFW it'd be easier. There are auctions 7 days a week here, and yes I do mean Sunday too, cupcake. The two main sites I visit for this for here are http://renebates.com and http://lonestarauctioneers.com

[AL]

well i know it needs the rear struts, cause it doesnt pass the jounce test. the filler neck is kinda rusty, the rear brake lines are rusty, all the rotors should be replaced, the driver side tie rod separated from the inner somehow and broke the boot on the cv shaft, 1 tire is bald and flat (pass front), and the rockers are rusty.

then pass it up, i didnt know about the tie rod and tire... keep checking craigslist

[douellette]

then pass it up, i didnt know about the tie rod and tire... keep checking craigslist

 

well im thinking about getting another j-body lol..i liked the one i had

[douellette]

bump (look at what i wrote on original post)

[Night Fury]

Get it!

[douellette]

Get it!

 

i mean its been sitting for a couple months, the sticker is still good til november, and the women selling it says its in "fair" condition. should i be worried about the mileage thats on this drivetrain??

[AL]

GS FTW

[3pt1lumina]

Wouldn't let the mileage scare you, as long as it is solid. I'd over fix a solid car to make it nice again...just me but that's what I do with mine..but only if it's solid. Rust = no point.

[douellette]

Ok...went and looked at it today. Seems to be solid. Only problems are that the lady cant find the only key. So according to the dealership i would have to replace the lock cylinder. Is this true? And is it possible without the key?

 

And the other issue would be that it looks like the intake is leaking. Is that a hard job to do? Ive done one on a 3100 before.

 

Any input asap would be great. Thanks!

[3pt1lumina]

3800's are ridiculously easy to do LIM's on compared to a 3100. And a dealer can cut you the keys with the VIN#... we used to do it all the time at the Buick dealer I worked at. You just need proof of ownership in order for them to do it (well, in NY you do).