jman093 Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 Right, and the KYB's are pretty recent so they should perform well for some time to come. I hope that by going with 400lb springs in the rear that I won't have any "ricer bounce." That's my only conern. One thing that will make a difference here is good performance tires with a stiff sidewall. I put on some (not runflats btw) 180 treadwear Bridgestone Potenza's with a stiff enough sidewall that one tire I lost all pressure in was still standing up with the weight of the car on it and didn't look deflated. Putting these on helped the bounce quite a bit. The bouncing has slowly come back in the 18 months since I put them on because even these the tires can't completely take being beaten mercilessly by such a stiff suspension. But even 25,000 miles later, it's still not as bad as the mastercraft avengers that were on the car when I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Believe me when I say this, KYB's are no good for lowering a car past 1" MAX. I have done extensive work and been on the phone with KONI for well over 5hr talking about there shocks. The way they design there shock is how it can run with such a low drop and still ride good. The valving inside the shock is what makes them work. KYB's are good shocks, dont get me wrong. I had them for 10k miles on my car. They are affordable, but not for lowering extensivly. With that being said, KONI shocks do run about 3x more. I can purchase them cheaper than most with my wholesale account, but they still run in the range of $160-200 each side. Your saying well I can get a whole set of KYB's for that price. There is a reason you pay good money for some things and this is one of them. Take this post for general information, I am not bashing anyone with Kyb's, just stating they are no good for this application. Mark-OEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 If anyone is interested I can do a Gb of 5 set of konis and get them down to $165 shipped each. I would need an order for 4-5 people for all 4 shocks. mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Stock front replacement cartridges? I'd be in for 2. Sent from my HTC Magic using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I will start a Gb feeler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpchris Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Well I got my suspension all done. Here's basically what I did: Rear: Gr2's w/ 300lb springs Held trailing arms New toe bushings Addco swaybar Front: Gr2's w/ 500lb springs 34mm sway w/polys modified to be the correct size Poly control arm bushings Overkill camber plates (solid strut mounts) The car rides exactly like a compg except handles better around corners. It's a firm ride but not a harsh one. Absolutely zero suspension noises. 500lb is perfect for the front. It's totally streetable but turns are incredibly smooth. But I did adjust caster and I think that makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 Well I got my suspension all done. Here's basically what I did: Rear: Gr2's w/ 300lb springs Held trailing arms New toe bushings Addco swaybar Front: Gr2's w/ 500lb springs 34mm sway w/polys modified to be the correct size Poly control arm bushings Overkill camber plates (solid strut mounts) The car rides exactly like a compg except handles better around corners. It's a firm ride but not a harsh one. Absolutely zero suspension noises. 500lb is perfect for the front. It's totally streetable but turns are incredibly smooth. But I did adjust caster and I think that makes a difference. You now know the beauty of camber/caster plates . Wish more people on here would read this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 Im at 3.7* of caster. After I do a real alignment once I have more time and get more done to my suspension, I will be shooting for 5* of caster, and a -.8* camber up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 -.8? Pfffft thats nothing mang. Im shooting for -3.0 lol. No really these plates really help dial in the cars ability to handle. I cant wait to finish up my front end finally. 750# up front for me :)/ Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 I don't want tire killing from camber for the streets lol, plus shooting for higher caster allows me to use less front camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 I don't want tire killing from camber for the streets lol, plus shooting for higher caster allows me to use less front camber. QFT. That's what a lot of automakers are doing now with caster. Even 9-11 degrees of caster is common nowadays, especially on RWD cars. Although going that extreme also kills tires quicker. 5-6 degrees like you said I think is a good place to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 example chrysler 300/charger runs around 10.5 degrees caster stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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