Crazy K Posted July 24, 2010 Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 it IS 35 mm... but axle nuts are commonly available in even number sizes... so 36 works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted July 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 Thanks Crazy, sorry for doubting, I'm just making sure I have my parts before i do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96oldsmobubble Posted July 25, 2010 Report Share Posted July 25, 2010 I used SKF bearings on the rear of my Cutlass, nice piece! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Well guys I got the tools, got the grease and everything ready to go. I went to take the everything off, down to the hub. I came to a huge problem. I couldn't get the the half shaft out of the spindle from the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing did not separate itself, which is good, but would never let go of the spindle. I tried a mallet and banged the shit out of and it didn't budge. I had some arocoil oil and oiled the hell out of for it slide out. It didn't make a difference. I tried a hammer to bang the outer flange of the bearing in hopes it would make a difference, and no go. I went down to auto-zone to grab a axle puller and the puller really didn't make a difference. The weird part was is when i took the puller and lined it up to the wheel studs i couldn't get to thread all three holes to get a good grab onto the wheel bearing. I mean the part I rented was a "universal" puller for sedans and smaller trucks, but the puller basically touched the circle rim around the spindle. I would think it was supposed to be bigger so that it would wrap around the circle to be more "flush" to allow more threads to screw in the lug nuts to be able to secure the axle puller, but no such luck. I don't know if the spindle is ceased into the bearing and should take it in or think of something else. I swear I was so close, and i didn't think it was such a difficult job honestly, hell easier than a tune IMO. I was getting used to doing stuff on my own what happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 The puller you rented, was it a screw type or a slide-hammer type? You need the screw type. Mine is similar, it won't sit very far down on the hub due to being designed for a smaller center bore, however, my studs are threaded right to the ends so the lug nuts have plenty of thread to grab onto. Now that I think of it, are the studs smooth on the last 3/8" or so? That might explain why you can't use that puller. It's not recommended to bang on the half-shaft itself, but you could try that as a last resort. Hopefully someone else has a better suggestion, but it's possible that might not hurt it. Also, if you have to, you can pull the half-shaft and hub as an assembly. I'm picturing in my head that you could hold the halfshaft vertically with hub facing the ground, and put a piece of wood or something solid between the ground and the end of the axle and then hammer the crap out of the back of the hub. The halfshaft snaps in and out of the transmission. I think a pry bar works for that. I think passenger side is easier than driver side because there's less you can brace off of on the driver side (tranny side pan isn't really that strong). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 I've always just put the axle nut socket back over a halfway removed wheel bearing and wailed the crap out of with a BFH. Always worked good for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 I've always just put the axle nut socket back over a halfway removed wheel bearing and wailed the crap out of with a BFH. Always worked good for me. x2, you dont want to mushroom the threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 GnatGoSplat The puller you rented, was it a screw type or a slide-hammer type? You need the screw type. Mine is similar, it won't sit very far down on the hub due to being designed for a smaller center bore, however, my studs are threaded right to the ends so the lug nuts have plenty of thread to grab onto. Now that I think of it, are the studs smooth on the last 3/8" or so? That might explain why you can't use that puller. It's not recommended to bang on the half-shaft itself, but you could try that as a last resort. Hopefully someone else has a better suggestion, but it's possible that might not hurt it. Also, if you have to, you can pull the half-shaft and hub as an assembly. I'm picturing in my head that you could hold the halfshaft vertically with hub facing the ground, and put a piece of wood or something solid between the ground and the end of the axle and then hammer the crap out of the back of the hub. The halfshaft snaps in and out of the transmission. I think a pry bar works for that. I think passenger side is easier than driver side because there's less you can brace off of on the driver side (tranny side pan isn't really that strong). Puller i used was a screw type. I guess that does make sense about the lug nuts not being able to get much threads as i was trying to use it. There is a little bit of a "thread gap" on the wheel stud if thats what your asking. I know if it wasn't there in the first place there would be more room for the axel puller to thread onto and be able to pull the axel away from the bearing. I know it really isn't a good idea to take a hammer or even a mallet and slam away at the half shafts, but it was last ditch effort. If I thought about it more I wish i took the 35mm and slam the helll out of it with bolt on, but doing that way with/without a mallet, or hammer didn't even make it budge. I've always just put the axle nut socket back over a halfway removed wheel bearing and wailed the crap out of with a BFH. Always worked good for me. BFH? BIG Freaking Hammer? I seriously considering taking down to the shop and either having them charge me labor to take new bearings (I bought), and replace the old. I sure would love to see how they are going to get them out. The other thought I had was to take it in and ask for them to loosen the half shaft, and put it back into the old bearing and I would take it home and replace the new bearing. That was just a thought though. White93z34 I've always just put the axle nut socket back over a halfway removed wheel bearing and wailed the crap out of with a BFH. Always worked good for me. I would consider doing that but i would be afraid of mushrooming the threads, or some how the tearing up the half shaft, or spindle for that matter. The axel bolt looked like someone had done the job before (i doubt it really), but the bolt looked bent on one of inside threads, but it didn't effect the effort being put on it to get it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Thread gap, yeah, I got a 96 hub once and the stud ends were smooth which is different from the older W-bodies which were threaded all the way to the very end of the stud. I don't know why they did that, doesn't really make sense. Maybe it made installing the wheel easier or something. BFH? BIG Freaking Hammer? I seriously considering taking down to the shop and either having them charge me labor to take new bearings (I bought), and replace the old. I sure would love to see how they are going to get them out. The other thought I had was to take it in and ask for them to loosen the half shaft, and put it back into the old bearing and I would take it home and replace the new bearing. That was just a thought though. I think you should be okay since others have used the BFH. Just thread the axle nut back halfway on and wail on it. It should work. If you're really paranoid about hurting the halfshaft (though it doesn't seem anyone has hurt theirs that way), I've made a little illustration of what I was describing earlier that you could do if you pull the halfshaft out with the hub. MS Paint FTW! Yeah, I was really bored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted July 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 Gnatgosplat, thanks for the diagram. I hate to say it bit due to the hub, and not having much time to tackle it again, think I'm gonna get shop to help me out. I was quoted 80 dollars for each side. I don't think that's a bad deal, course i'd love to do it myself but didn't think I would have the spindle cease, hind site being 20/20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted July 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 Mods you can close the thread. I got bearings in (help from the shop), and wow I can tell a difference. I swear, didn't realize how much farthur the car will roll now. It's real nice drive now. I talked to the mechanic and asked how he got the half shaft to separate from the bearing, and mentioned it came out with no problem. I wonder if the penetrating oil helped alot after sitting there with the car moving. If I had known better I would have left the car sitting the garage and came back to bang the crap out of it even more, but oh well you live and you learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted July 27, 2010 Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 I talked to the mechanic and asked how he got the half shaft to separate from the bearing, and mentioned it came out with no problem. That's code for "I used a BFH" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted July 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 No joke! I'll admit i should have kept wailing the he'll out of it. One pays to be wimpy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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