Wheel Bearings?

[dodgethis]

Well guys the car has been running fine until i noticed what sounded like the wheel bearing possibly going out. When I am going straight or either turning i hear this low hum noise at 35 to 40 mph. It will get louder as i speed up until it sounds the same with the engine. When the car slows down i can it the hum slowly decrease as i am coming to a stop. I have tried to see if it stops with the A/c on or off, and it makes no difference it is still there. The air pressure for each tire was checked and it was fine also. This is new to me, never had one fail (wheel bearing) if that's what it sounds like. The car currently has roughly 97,000 miles on her.

 

What do you think on a '98 lumina?

[jeremy]

it does sound like a bad wheel bearing ....

[dodgethis]

Typically they both don't go out at once right? i should be able to tell which side its coming from just by sticking my head out the window right?

[GnatGoSplat]

No, they typically don't both go out at once. You can replace just the bad one. Sticking your head out the window is probably as good a way to tell as any. I don't know of any more scientific method than that.

[wickedbuick]

No, they typically don't both go out at once. You can replace just the bad one. Sticking your head out the window is probably as good a way to tell as any. I don't know of any more scientific method than that.

 

 

I just changed wheel bearings on my friends 98 lumina and they were both bad. He heard the noise for a few weeks and they both were nasty. Even if one is making noise now, I always do them in pairs so I know its good for a while. Preventative maintenance

[GnatGoSplat]

I wouldn't change them in pairs. I changed one hub around 10yrs ago and all this time later, the other 3 are still fine. Changing them in pairs is wasteful. If it does turn out both are bad, you don't have to pull one to get to the other so it's not like you'll save much time.

[wickedbuick]

I wouldn't change them in pairs. I changed one hub around 10yrs ago and all this time later, the other 3 are still fine. Changing them in pairs is wasteful. If it does turn out both are bad, you don't have to pull one to get to the other so it's not like you'll save much time.

 

 

They don't cost that much and you'd already be dirty and the car up. I treat it like other regular wear items. I wouldn't change brake pads on just one side or just one strut. I guess its just opinion not really something that matters if you do just change one.

[dodgethis]

Hey wicked do you have a write up or anything i could go by? I would think since you did a 98 lumina, you could give me some heads up on what im looking at. I never done them before.

[jman093]

You're description definitely sounds like a bearing. There's no reason to change in pairs. To help find out which one is making noise, drive the car at the speed the noise can be well heard and start making slow turns to shift more weight onto one side of the car. More weight typically makes it louder, so whichever side gets louder with more weight and quiets down some when the weight is shifted to the other side, is the side with the noisy bearing.

[Crazy K]

You're description definitely sounds like a bearing. There's no reason to change in pairs. To help find out which one is making noise, drive the car at the speed the noise can be well heard and start making slow turns to shift more weight onto one side of the car. More weight typically makes it louder, so whichever side gets louder with more weight and quiets down some when the weight is shifted to the other side, is the side with the noisy bearing.

x2.

[cubsfan24]

I think I read on here in the past that it would be a good idea to avoid those cheap wheel bearings on ebay. If that is the case would it be better idea to just get one from the junk yard? I have a rear bearing on its way out. Need to think about replacing it soon.

[GutlessSupreme]

I've had decent luck with junkyard ones, just check the mileage on the car and make sure it's not super high.

 

Occasionally you can find real AC Delco ones on ebay for a good deal, but unless it's clearly written that it was manufactured by AC Delco (or Timken), stay away. I've had one of the cheaper ones literally split apart when I took the axle nut off.

 

Autozone would probably be your best bet otherwise, they sell the Timken ones.

 

Don't replace in pairs, as people have said, it's wasteful. It's not like you'd be doing it since you have everything apart already, because you'd still have to take the entire other side apart. Also, jack up the front of the car (assuming you're looking at front ones) and give the wheels a shake. Noticeable play could be a sign of a bad ball joint or tie rod, but if it's in all directions then it's probably the wheel bearing.

 

Quick directions:

-jack up car

-remove wheel

-remove 35 mm axle nut - either have someone step on the brakes, or wedge a crowbar between the wheel studs and the ground (might mess up the threads though). You're gonna need a breaker bar or an impact gun.

-remove brake caliper/rotor

 

-remove 4 15 mm bolts on rear of strut tower that hold in the hub - be careful, I've sheared more than one of these in half. Excessive PB Blaster and possibly heat recommended. Turn the steering wheel to get at them easier, or if the axle's really pissing you off, then pop the ball joint and tie rod end off the strut tower so you can pull it away from the axle.

 

-if ABS equipped, grind off exposed end of studs that hold wheel speed sensor through hub and strut tower. Use a punch to knock the studs through and out the back of the strut tower.

 

-remove wheel hub (BFH may be necessary due to corrosion)

 

----------------------------

 

-When putting everything back together, torque to:

Axle nut: used to be published as 184 ft-lbs, I guess it was revised to something significantly less though.

Wheel hub bolts: 52 ft-lbs

T-60 brake caliper bolts: 79 ft-lb

Lug nuts: 100 ft-lbs, star pattern of course.

 

think that's everything.

Edited July 15, 2010 by GutlessSupreme

[dodgethis]

I've had decent luck with junkyard ones, just check the mileage on the car and make sure it's not super high.

 

Occasionally you can find real AC Delco ones on ebay for a good deal, but unless it's clearly written that it was manufactured by AC Delco (or Timken), stay away. I've had one of the cheaper ones literally split apart when I took the axle nut off.

 

Autozone would probably be your best bet otherwise, they sell the Timken ones.

 

Don't replace in pairs, as people have said, it's wasteful. It's not like you'd be doing it since you have everything apart already, because you'd still have to take the entire other side apart. Also, jack up the front of the car (assuming you're looking at front ones) and give the wheels a shake. Noticeable play could be a sign of a bad ball joint or tie rod, but if it's in all directions then it's probably the wheel bearing.

 

Quick directions:

-jack up car

-remove wheel

-remove 35 mm axle nut - either have someone step on the brakes, or wedge a crowbar between the wheel studs and the ground (might mess up the threads though). You're gonna need a breaker bar or an impact gun.

-remove brake caliper/rotor

 

-remove 4 15 mm bolts on rear of strut tower that hold in the hub - be careful, I've sheared more than one of these in half. Excessive PB Blaster and possibly heat recommended. Turn the steering wheel to get at them easier, or if the axle's really pissing you off, then pop the ball joint and tie rod end off the strut tower so you can pull it away from the axle.

 

-if ABS equipped, grind off exposed end of studs that hold wheel speed sensor through hub and strut tower. Use a punch to knock the studs through and out the back of the strut tower.

 

-remove wheel hub (BFH may be necessary due to corrosion)

 

----------------------------

 

-When putting everything back together, torque to:

Axle nut: used to be published as 184 ft-lbs, I guess it was revised to something significantly less though.

Wheel hub bolts: 52 ft-lbs

T-60 brake caliper bolts: 79 ft-lb

Lug nuts: 100 ft-lbs, star pattern of course.

 

think that's everything.

 

 

Thanks gutless! I will start looking into finding out which hub is the problem. On another note, like cubs was mentioning, if you were to pull a bearing from the junk yard "you would want to find one that had the least amount of miles" no duh right?

[GnatGoSplat]

If you're doing it by yourself, I've found putting the spare tire on with 2 or 3 lugnuts and then lowering the car so the spare has a little weight on it makes it easy to remove the axle nut without help.

I think it's easiest to press the axle out of the hub using a screw type axle puller after the 4 hub bolts are loosened. Once the axle is pushed into the hub a few millimeters, it's now loosened so the 4 bolts can be completely removed and axle pressed all the way out easily with the axle puller. I got my axle puller from JC Whitney for $9, it looks exactly like this one: http://www.tools.macwebsitebuilder.com/i//27037.jpg BFH will work, but axle puller is much easier on the halfshafts.

[dodgethis]

If you're doing it by yourself, I've found putting the spare tire on with 2 or 3 lugnuts and then lowering the car so the spare has a little weight on it makes it easy to remove the axle nut without help.

I think it's easiest to press the axle out of the hub using a screw type axle puller after the 4 hub bolts are loosened. Once the axle is pushed into the hub a few millimeters, it's now loosened so the 4 bolts can be completely removed and axle pressed all the way out easily with the axle puller. I got my axle puller from JC Whitney for $9, it looks exactly like this one: http://www.tools.macwebsitebuilder.com/i//27037.jpg BFH will work, but axle puller is much easier on the halfshafts.

 

Thanks Gnat and everyone thoughts in my

problem. I found some timken bearing at R***AUto, cheaper than zone out auto.

[GutlessSupreme]

d'oh, rockauto totally slipped my mind for some reason. Yea, they'll be cheaper.

[mra32]

ive done this job by myself too many times.

 

When using the brake to break the axle nut free, turn the car on to get the vacuum assist and get a piece of wood (i used a spare rear coilover) or or a friend or something and wedge it between the seat and the brake.

 

Not using the brakes you can stick a screwdriver in the cooling vanes of the brake rotor and torque the screwdriver against the brake caliper.

 

Ive never had trouble removing the axle from the hub, a few whacks square on the end of the axle should free it up from the hub.

 

I was able to do this by myself in 45 minutes and that included running inside and grabbing tools, parking the car and jacking it up.

[3pt1lumina]

Took about an hour to do on mine as well, and I wouldn't replace in pairs. What gave mine away was a humming or a growling sound coming from the front, especially on turns. If I turned right it would howl far more than if I turned left, then it would go away.

 

Try turning the wheel going about 40 (like on a curving off ramp) and see which direction it is louder. If you turn right and it howls, it's the left, and vice versa. If the sound doesn't change, it's a rear one.

[dodgethis]

Thanks man I'll try that. It's weird, I hear it more in the front at around 40 mph and then it goes away. I know it's still there because when I slow back down I can here it at that speed. It's more audible when I'm going straight then when I'm turning or getting on an off ramp. I will grab some timkens and will do both sides ( I work two jobs abd go to school) I can't afford any down time with the car, so might as well nock it out before I head back to school,

[3pt1lumina]

I've put 3 Timkens on my cars (all on different cars) and they have been great. $75 + tax at Napa here. Works for me.

[mra32]

Ive put 3 timkens on my car (same one). One was borked from the start, but what other options are there?

[dodgethis]

SKF? I saw them on rockauto. They are a little more expensive. I haven't done any research on them. I don't know if they were made in the U.S. or if they are put together somewhere else. I think that would be my other option. I wouldn't get too expensive.

[dodgethis]

Scratch SKF, I'd rather go for a company thats here. I am going with timken

[GutlessSupreme]

Scratch SKF, I'd rather go for a company thats here. I am going with timken

 

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf_us/home/aboutskf?contentId=056161&lang=en

 

SKF's a good company, I'd say comparable to Timken. We use their stuff all the time at work for machine tools.

[dodgethis]

I've had decent luck with junkyard ones, just check the mileage on the car and make sure it's not super high.

 

Occasionally you can find real AC Delco ones on ebay for a good deal, but unless it's clearly written that it was manufactured by AC Delco (or Timken), stay away. I've had one of the cheaper ones literally split apart when I took the axle nut off.

 

Autozone would probably be your best bet otherwise, they sell the Timken ones.

 

Don't replace in pairs, as people have said, it's wasteful. It's not like you'd be doing it since you have everything apart already, because you'd still have to take the entire other side apart. Also, jack up the front of the car (assuming you're looking at front ones) and give the wheels a shake. Noticeable play could be a sign of a bad ball joint or tie rod, but if it's in all directions then it's probably the wheel bearing.

 

Quick directions:

-jack up car

-remove wheel

-remove 35 mm axle nut - either have someone step on the brakes, or wedge a crowbar between the wheel studs and the ground (might mess up the threads though). You're gonna need a breaker bar or an impact gun.

-remove brake caliper/rotor

 

-remove 4 15 mm bolts on rear of strut tower that hold in the hub - be careful, I've sheared more than one of these in half. Excessive PB Blaster and possibly heat recommended. Turn the steering wheel to get at them easier, or if the axle's really pissing you off, then pop the ball joint and tie rod end off the strut tower so you can pull it away from the axle.

 

-if ABS equipped, grind off exposed end of studs that hold wheel speed sensor through hub and strut tower. Use a punch to knock the studs through and out the back of the strut tower.

 

-remove wheel hub (BFH may be necessary due to corrosion)

 

----------------------------

 

-When putting everything back together, torque to:

Axle nut: used to be published as 184 ft-lbs, I guess it was revised to something significantly less though.

Wheel hub bolts: 52 ft-lbs

T-60 brake caliper bolts: 79 ft-lb

Lug nuts: 100 ft-lbs, star pattern of course.

 

think that's everything.

 

 

Gutless, are you sure its 35mm?

 

I found a website that explains for Pontiac's grand am, how to replace wheel bearings. The guy who wrote the tutorial "Paul" used a 36mm. Is that the same for our w-body? I mean 1mm off isn't a big deal, If its 1mm different I am up the road to replace it for a 36mm.