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1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix - Tuned with Videos - Questions?


jongrappin

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I just completed installing a Topgun 160 Chip in my car. I have the epprom programmer and burned the chip myself. The car now sounds angry after the tune but I am experiencing a few issues now.... The HUD now does not work, it reads 0MPH as well now the dash reads 0mph. Check engine light is now on but there is no code to pull? other than these issues the car now seems to run much better. Also the engine has a very light miss like once every 20 seconds only around 1-2000 rpms (this was before and after the tune).

 

Videos:

 

Before the tune:

[video=youtube;tnuE5rMiM9A]

 

After the tune:

[video=youtube;d-dqhvIEYWo]

[video=youtube;AM-sKS4_pGc]

[video=youtube;WQBdnvVuC-c]

 

Any advice on the tune?

 

Also if anyone is interested I can burn Chips for you, just PM

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CEL with no codes yes? I tried to pull the code and it didnt even blink the code 12, the light just stays on when I jump the 2 pins with engine running. am i doing something wrong?

 

Speedo used to be inaccurat and read high and the HUD Readout was accurate, now with the new chip, the tach still works the same, the speedo doesn't move from 0. and the HUD lights up and only displays 0mph.

 

As for the TCC, didnt know what it was, i just looked it up, Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) and lock-up whatnot. I dont think its locked up, car idles, runs and drives great. Also had the trans completely done by a shop with new shift kit and torque converter, maybe not a TCC tho? what makes you ask about this?

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Tach still works and read inaccurately as it did prior to the burn. is the burn good? im not sure? i burned it and verified the burn with the prog? all soldered connection points look good, i think i will double check that. Does anyone have advance or a video for the de-soldering and re-soldering procedure.

 

Thanks guys

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if the ECM or PROM is flaking out, the ECM will go into limp mode... there are a few ways to test for this, the easiest and quickest being to get the vehicle up to speed and see if the torque convertor locks. if it doesn't it's a good indicator that something is wrong. the other easy one is to hook up a scanner of any kind and see if a datastream is getting pushed out.

 

no stream, convertor lockup or a few other ECM only functions confirms it.

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Tach still works and read inaccurately as it did prior to the burn. is the burn good? im not sure? i burned it and verified the burn with the prog? all soldered connection points look good, i think i will double check that. Does anyone have advance or a video for the de-soldering and re-soldering procedure.

 

Thanks guys

 

the tach is in no way controlled by the ECM, it's all done through the ICM and dash.

 

i've NEVER been able to desolder a chip and save it, but my iron is older and fatter than i am, so that may contribute...

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You should hear the leaky cross over on my second TGP! thats a project that hasn't made it on the forum yet...

holy hell thats one leaky X-over.. I have 2 extra clusters that the tach may be more accurate..
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How can i tell if the tourque converter locks up, and at what speeds specially??? also in nuetral there seems to be no rev limiter at all?

if the ECM or PROM is flaking out, the ECM will go into limp mode... there are a few ways to test for this, the easiest and quickest being to get the vehicle up to speed and see if the torque convertor locks. if it doesn't it's a good indicator that something is wrong. the other easy one is to hook up a scanner of any kind and see if a datastream is getting pushed out.

 

no stream, convertor lockup or a few other ECM only functions confirms it.

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you should feel 4 "shifts"...

 

3 will be actual shifts, the second to last "shift" should be the convertor locking.

 

if you change throttle slightly while at ~55MPH do the RPMs change instantly? with the torque convertor locked, they should stay relatively stable unless you put a lot of foot into it, or take your foot almost all the way off... that should unlock it in either scenario. if your tach was accurate, you would see ~1700RPM at 55MPH in 4th gear with the convertor locked.

 

and the ECM should cut fuel when in park/neutral(when not moving) at 3K if you never changed that value....

 

do either fan come on with key on, engine off? and does one come on if you attempt to read the codes through the SES light?

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haha, watching that video makes me think of KC w-body meet,

 

me: The cutlass shifts at 5500RPM

Adam: So does my Grand prix

Brian: really?

me and adam: yeah y?

Brian, just seems off, mine shifts at like 15,000-16,000 RPM LOL(talking about his tgp) Hes tach and speedo used to fight! LOL

 

 

But Anyways drive down the road like 55-65 keep the foot on the gas and give the break a little tap, If the car "Shifted down" then tq Unlocked.

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I burned a new chip with success.

 

I am now using the AZRC 89-90 TGP Tune. The car idles nicely and the car has alot more power. I no longer have any of the symptoms i was facing with the previous burn. the car now rages, smolders the tires.

 

If anyone needs a chip burned for there car I have all of the hardware, I will burn a chip for $50 PM ME.

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I burned a new chip with success.

 

I am now using the AZRC 89-90 TGP Tune. The car idles nicely and the car has alot more power. I no longer have any of the symptoms i was facing with the previous burn. the car now rages, smolders the tires.

 

If anyone needs a chip burned for there car I have all of the hardware, I will burn a chip for $50 PM ME.

 

good to hear it's working... and on factory tune no less...:laugh:

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I wouldn't be doing one wheel burnouts like that with the car not going straight. tgp 4t60's have a LSD and too many of those will smoke it and you will be stuck with one tire fire.

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  • 1 month later...

The LSD was in great shape when I had the tranny rebuilt recently as well as the other components had little wear other than the parts that blew up..

I wouldn't be doing one wheel burnouts like that with the car not going straight. tgp 4t60's have a LSD and too many of those will smoke it and you will be stuck with one tire fire.
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well they are meant to be engaged only with the wheels pointing straight while launching. if it had no wear then firing it around corners with the tire smoking on one side will make it slip and burn up.

 

save it for stoplight drags. where you need traction from both tires before merging.

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