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Knock,Knock, L36 ,Knock,Knock


93cutty

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So I was driving through the country on a two lane yesterday when I came upon a slow moving tractor. I gently eased the gas down and moved into the opposite lane. I pull back into my lane and notice a KNOCK, KNOCK, KNOCK, What the freak. Thats right at 143k miles my heroic 3.8 known for its unbeatable reliability has developed a serious problem. I limp it back home and tear off the oil pan to find lots of metal. I swear the car gods are not happy with me. This is the fourth motor I have had to change this year. I'm thinking that the previous owner didn't change the oil that much since it was like tar when I got it. I'm going to pull the motor and do a basic overhaul on it changing the bearings, rings, timing chain, and I will probably have to have the crank turned. On a side note I found an interesting article on rebuilding the l67.

 

http://www.thrashercharged.com/tech_htm/engine_tear.shtm

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Keep in mind, 90% of people that repair the bottom end of the L36/L67 have another bottom end failure in the next 5000 miles.

 

Time to shop for another engine.

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Yeah I did some research and your right, it is not advisable to rebuild the 3.8.:cry: But I am bidding on a 2000 ssei at an insurance auction. It has gxp wheels, leather, and the l67.

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Yeah I'm pretty surprised it naded like it did. I have had several 3800's that ran well into the 200k mile range. Mine was a one owner that was babied and Anthony drove his literally into hell before it naded. I can say 1000000 percent that the 3.8 is still the most reliable motor I have ever had.

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I drove mine a mile once with no oil before I figured that it blew it all out the bottom of the car. It still clicks away today at 181,000 miles.

 

That said with as plentiful as these engines are, screw rebuilding get a good used one.

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...with as plentiful as these engines are, screw rebuilding get a good used one.

 

Is that why rebuilding is frowned upon? Otherwise I don't see why a properly done rebuild would grenade on a 3800 more than any other engine.

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Well they obviously werent rebuilt correctly, i.e. people not platigaugeing to check bearing tolerance, not torquing bolts correctly, not knowing that the crank is actually damaged.

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i build engines all the time and don't have any issues with the 3800 or any other engines i have redone, although dollar for dollar a good used engine is hard to beat. my recipe for a good solid rebuild is a good well known machinist, good quality parts, patience and every step is clean clean clean.

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Read my post above. The 3800's are well known to blow after having the bottom end rebuilt....

 

I did read your post, and it got me thinking as to the why behind it. If the engines are so cheap and plentiful, then possibly shortcuts would be taken when repairing the bottom end since it wouldn't make sense to spend more on a rebuild than a low milage replacement. Then of course the motor dies shortly afterwards...big surprise! :roll: My complete thought just didn't make it into the post :redface:

 

It just didn't make sense that if the proper care was taken during the rebuild that an L67/L36 would be any less solid than any other motor that was properly rebuilt.

 

Sorry for the threadjack 93Cutty. Hope you get her back on the road quickly! :thumbsup:

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Ouch, man that sucks! I know that sound/feeling all too well. Except my motor couldn't make it half of what yours did.

 

Keep in mind, 90% of people that repair the bottom end of the L36/L67 have another bottom end failure in the next 5000 miles.

 

Time to shop for another engine.

 

That's why I pushed for GM to give me a brand new motor, I didn't want to risk that happening again!

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Anthony drove his literally into hell before it naded.

 

Tis' The truth! and the bad part is if i would have checked the oil like most normal people do.. She would be running still!

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true, unless a spun bearing is caught and dealt with immediately and proper procedures followed during the repair process i too would not give the bottom end repair very many miles. you are basically treating a sympton not fixing the problem and she would not be what most call dependable. it is very hard to beat a good used motor for the money, engine rebuilds cost way more.

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I like how you guys say these motors are cheap and plentiful. I want to shop where you do. Around here a low mileage 3.8 that is below 100k miles is 800 to 1000 dollars. 150k to 200k is around 500 to 600. That is why I wanted to rebuild. That would only run me around 300. Thank you cash for clunkers for making used car motors expensive.

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

I'm hoping to pick this up for around 800 bucks, then I would have the wheels, motor, tranny, interior, and scrap the rest.

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i understand your greif on the cost issues. i am fortunate enough to of found my L67 donor car complete with 76,000 miles on t-boned in the pass side by a UPS truck for $200. where are you located, i scrap an average of 100 cars a year and i am consantly running into good deals.

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Nice! If you could, get what number the car is/VIN please?

 

 

That's a good price, it's been for sale for a while so I'm sure he wants to get rid of it.

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Yeah I told him that I would give him 400 and he said no. He said that it could be fixed up and I was like "Look the bags are blown the front is totalled. The motor has 171k miles. Who knows what the tranny is like since you busted off the hub. Not to mention that I have to drive four hours to get it and then figure out how to get it on a trailer with three wheels. You basically have a two good grand prix doors and leather interior." I feel bad for the guy because he's old with lots of medical bills and I think he really liked this car. So if any of you find me a good motor for around 400/500 bucks let me know.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I picked up a 00 l36 from a buick that had supposedly 40k miles and guess what. I get it changed and 0 oil pressure. Changed the pickup tube and took off the valve cover and zero oil pressure. Then it starts knocking. Thank god there is a 30 warranty on junk yard motors. I have never had a motor start with zero oil pressure and wonder what the hell is wrong with it. Now I just get to yank this out again and find another one.

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