Pogo420 Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Ok I've done some searching around and I haven't really found anyone haveing the same problem, but I'm getting random Low Oil Light, when the oil isn't low, and also getting Low Coolant light when coolant isn't low. And also I'm having starting issues, I go to turn the key and I get nothing sometimes, i turn it a couple more times and suddenly it will start like there was nothing ever wrong. At first I just thought bad sensor(s) but then the other problems popped up too so I'm wondering if its just crazy timing, bad wireing or what? has anyone ever heard of this before? the car is a 1995 Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Check the battery power wiring. I can't say I know much about your engine, but these sound like symptoms of a common issue. Battery to chassis, battery to fuseblock, battery to engine block, battery to starter. I've had very similar issues when my battery to fuseblock wire was starting to corrode. I would disconnect them all, check for corrosion or for loose connections, and reconnect them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pogo420 Posted June 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 yeah im in the process of checking that, right now 3 out 5 are good, but i didnt think this would cause the sensors to act up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 yeah im in the process of checking that, right now 3 out 5 are good, but i didnt think this would cause the sensors to act up When it happened to me, I would take a hard turn or go over a hard bump and my dash low oil light would go off for no reason at all until I restarted the car. Replacing the battery to fuseblock wire in the car solved that problem. Can't say for certain that its not something else, but I figure that's an easy thing to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pogo420 Posted June 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Well wires are tight and clean. Plus the low oil light comes on right from the start. I hate searching for gremlins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pogo420 Posted June 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 ok went through and cleaned up a bunch of grounds just for peace of mind, i guess now is the waiting game to see if the gremlins pop back up. On a side note, I wanted to check my codes just to see if anything would show up and according to the book you have to jump A and B, well I only have two wires hooked up to my diagnostics port and they are pins A and M and when I jump those it does nothing, not even the default code. I tried going through the manuals wire diagrams but couldn't figure out what wires should be running to the port. Any one have any ideas on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 It doesnt work on a 94-95 cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatTheFehl Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 It doesnt work on a 94-95 cars x2... 94 and 95 GMs have the bastard child between OBD1 and OBD2 known as "OBD 1.5". Only GM used it. Unfortunately to scan codes you need to get a scanner/ALDL cable, or you can go to PepBoys and get your codes pulled for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runt Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Had a low coolant light back on my '96 and my '01. Turns out that some dexcool crap was messing up the sensor in the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pogo420 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 x2... 94 and 95 GMs have the bastard child between OBD1 and OBD2 known as "OBD 1.5". Only GM used it. Unfortunately to scan codes you need to get a scanner/ALDL cable, or you can go to PepBoys and get your codes pulled for free. Great. So then only two wires to the port is ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pogo420 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 bump* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonpro03 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 The low coolant light is probably because of a bad sensor in the radiator. The go bad really easily when the dexcool becomes contaminated. IDK about the low oil light, but as long as the oil isn't low, I wouldn't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Did the 95's have dexcool? I know my L27 didn't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pogo420 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 haha don't care about the coolant light as long as the temp guage is working. I'm still wondering bout that diagnostics port. When i got this car it had some really messed up wiring because the idiot that installed the alarm. I've removed the alarm and fixed all the wiring, but just wondering if that port is only supposed to have two wires going to it or did he rip those out too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatTheFehl Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 OBD1.5 is the OBD1 computer system but with the OBD2 port, for lack of a better explanation. Beyond that however, I'm not sure what else to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 I've removed the alarm and fixed all the wiring, but just wondering if that port is only supposed to have two wires going to it or did he rip those out too? 2 wires is normal, the only time you'll have more(for a 95 cutty 3100 anyway) is if you had the uplevel stero from the factory, that IIRC raised volume with vehicle speed, or if you had the CJ2 HVAC option, both of those would be pin J, while the normal 2 wires are A and M. the only other wire that was supposed to be possible was pin D or C, but that is described as "security indicator signal", which may or may not be relevant to SEO cars only(special equipment option). OBD1.5 is the OBD1 computer system but with the OBD2 port, for lack of a better explanation. Beyond that however, I'm not sure what else to say. you're somewhat correct... OBD1.5 can have either the OBD1 or OBD2 connector, but it is still an OBD1 PCM, and communicates as one as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pogo420 Posted June 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 2 wires is normal, the only time you'll have more(for a 95 cutty 3100 anyway) is if you had the uplevel stero from the factory, that IIRC raised volume with vehicle speed, or if you had the CJ2 HVAC option, both of those would be pin J, while the normal 2 wires are A and M. the only other wire that was supposed to be possible was pin D or C, but that is described as "security indicator signal", which may or may not be relevant to SEO cars only(special equipment option). Cool all I needed to know! Now to deal with the idiot at pep boys and get this fucker scanned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95 vert Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 Yes, two wires are fine. OBD 1 (12 pin) port that you have to use a scantool on to pull codes as previously stated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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