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factory boost gauge accuracy?


Garrett Powered

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I always wanted a map based digital/analog display. turns out I can have vacuum as well!

[video=youtube;6Yi8DJLsdDA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yi8DJLsdDA

I love the dash display on the new Tunerpro 5. I modified Robertisaar's "Dark Dash" to match 1st gen GP dash colors. He got my widaband to show up right too. still have to change it in tunerpro for the specific WB PLX Devices controller uses since it comes set with a conversion for the Innovate WB. but as you can see its already close.

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from what i've read, the TGP boost guage is subject to the same problems that can happen to the rest of the cluster at any time and just be completely out of spec...

 

the speedo and tach in the GP is WAY off... speedo is tripled and tach is like 2 and 2/3 too fast as well...

 

occasionally(usually when it's cold), the tach and speedo will actually read half of actual value until the vehicle is shut off again... be nice if the base clusters would have been the junk ones, not the sport clusters.

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I still got the "check gauges" light stuck on and need the "turbo" sanded so it glows. everything else works pretty damn good. at least compared to the other tgps I have seen. speed and RPMs are very close. my two black tgps, not near as close. boost seemed believable, but the autometer mechanical gauge I bought for it was crap.

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They're inaccurate in probably all of these cars. I've seen videos where people had stock tune cars w/ K&N filters that will max out the gauge for example.

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mine will barely get past 0 when I accelerate. but then again, my tune is messed up right now for my bigger injectors and I still don't have a base tune. and in datalogs I can see that I cant get into much boost right now. max is like 5 psi. pretty consistent with what I see on my cluster. hangs out in negative boost or vacuum area of measurement. the cluster gauge is usually pegged at around -10 but also floats a little in the negatives not exactly but similar to my datalog.

Edited by Garrett Powered
pegged at -10
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They're inaccurate in probably all of these cars. I've seen videos where people had stock tune cars w/ K&N filters that will max out the gauge for example.

 

 

this could be from experiencing overboost possibly? vacuum leaks from dried out rubber fittings have given me a similar condition in my black tgp. how did I know? I think I vaguely remember using the paperclip method and actually getting useful info from a ses light code setting an error.

 

yah, I actually was that ghetto for awhile.:showoff:

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I don't know WTF the factory boost gauge measures to be honest +15 - -15...... 15 what? PSI, puppies, KPA, ghosts? IF it was a working boost gauge it would read vacuum too. Maybe they are just all broken and at one point it read vacuum, but both my cars factory boost gauges were totally worthless.

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Both mine read both vacuum/boost just fine, but boost is on the HIGH side compared to a real gauge. My cars peg the gauges even though I see 10-11psi at most.

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I guess its positive and negative PSI that it reads on the dash. vacuum is measured in Hg (inches of mercury). both are based on the map signal just like kPa but use different conversions.

 

my boost gauge appears to be most accurate around the 0 psi range. I just got my vac and boost up a couple days back so I haven't had much time observing them yet.

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the needle on the gauge stops at about -10 psi I noticed and will hold there. it never gets down to -15 in my datalog. watching this recording I got and seeing where the BOV pops open, the negative boost bottoms out there at -11. dead on accurate with my dash. I just noticed that actually, the whole datalog stays above -11. while cruising it hangs at -9 to -6.

not only that, but I turn the key off and the needle goes straight to zero.

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