LukeZ34 Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 I need to do this soon, as there may be a road trip to Oklahoma City this weekend. My rear pads are almost worn down to nothing, so I need to replace them. I just did my front pads and rotors on Saturday, but I haven't changed rear brakes on a W-body for a couple of years now. Was there anything else that needed to be done to the rears when they are changed? I remember the last time I changed them, I had a hell of a time getting the caliper piston to push back in. I was using a C-Clamp, but I still having a hard time getting it to retract. Yes, I know, I should upgrade to the 94+ brakes. That's not an option right now though, as I need to get these done before the weekend. Plus, all the 94+ W-bodies at the junkyards here already have the rear brakes ripped off of them. Thanks in advance! Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaPaPooh Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 im not sure on your gp but you may have to get a special tool to commpress and turn the piston at the same time i bought the cheep box looking thing and it did not work so i rented a $37 tool from autozone (I think it was this one can't remember) Part No.: 27111 that tool made the job alot easier it was $37 rental and i got it back when i was done or you can use the box on a ratched and a c clamp good luck be safe and i hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 The pistons on the rear are supposed to rotate in. Just don't go the wrong direction or they'll pop right out and you'll need a new caliper! I have a Harbor Freight brake tool that works great, it rotates while pushing in at the same time. I've heard some people say it's easier to use a C-clamp while at the same time turning the park brake stud on the end. I haven't tried it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted September 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 I'm glad I posted this, I had forgotten about the need to rotate that piston while pushing it in. I'll have to run to Advance or NAPA today to see if either places have a brake tool. That is, if they know what I'm talking about. Last time I was there I had a 'former GM Tech for 30 years' tell me that I was full of shit about the leaky injectors on the TGP. 'Who the hell told you that, their full of shit!' haha, whatever.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burning Rom Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 I've got the $20 tool for the end of the ratchet. I got it from Fleet Farm...works great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted September 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 I've got the $20 tool for the end of the ratchet. I got it from Fleet Farm...works great Yea, I just went to advance and picked up that same tool for $10.49! But... I forgot to get the rotors and pads while I was there.. ughhh Looks like I'll be back there again today.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 Yeah I had forgot that those older ones turn back in. I was changing the rear on the '89 and broke like 2 clamps and a caliper piston tool before I hit my head and realized my mistake. Arrgghh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandprix104 Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 needle nose pliers worked on mine :? Took some muscle but after getting them started turning they went in really easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted September 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 I had completely forgotten how much of a pain in the ass these were to get off. I worked for 2 hours on them tonight, and then just gave up until tomorrow. I even had to dig out the chiltons manual for some help. I don't have all the tools I need (ie. the damn torx bit, anyone know what size that is?), and now I need to bleed the lines because the stupid fitting for the E brake started leaking out all the brake fluid. Whoever designed these needs shot in the head.. twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burning Rom Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 I don't have all the tools I need (ie. the damn torx bit, anyone know what size that is?) T60 ....buy 2, just in case you bust one ...I've busted a few of them already :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted September 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 That can't possibly be a T60.. That's what the front caliper brackets use, I know that for sure, but this bolt is much smaller than those.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 i buy new loaded calipers and rotors every time i need rear pads cause the calipers suck so bad they are never far behind. one of these days i'll grab the newer ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burning Rom Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 That can't possibly be a T60.. That's what the front caliper brackets use, I know that for sure, but this bolt is much smaller than those.. I'm not sure what bolt you're talking about then...I read through the brake removal instructions...and they don't even mention a torx bolt back there...and I don't remember one back there on my 90s. I'm just plain confused now :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted September 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 What do your brake removal instructions show? The more I think about it.. the chiltons manual probably has a procedure that's harder than it really is.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burning Rom Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 I just scanned through the removal part or Shawns 94+ upgrade write-up, since I'm at work and I don't have any manuals or a car to reference :oops: http://www.w-body.com/upgrades/brakes-rearcalipers94.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaPaPooh Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 i bought my "end of the retchet tool" for my back breaks for $4.99 it did not work worth a shiznit maybe next time i will try something different hands on is the only way to learn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heza Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 when i did my rear brakes, i had a c-clamp with a screw tighten effect to it. it worked just fine...cuz when i screw it down, the piston turned with it. oh...what's going on in Oklahoma City? i might have to find ya to see your 5-speed TGP. i'm stationed at the AFB here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted October 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 Ok.. bringing this back up.. I got the drivers side done, except for bleeding, which I will do when I get the pass. side done. The passenger side is what I'm stuck on. I was able to get the lower caliper bolt out, but the top one refuses to budge, even after letting it sit over night drenched in penetrating oil. The head on the bolt is showing some damage from my repeated attempts to get the focker out. I'm using an 18mm open ended wrench, and I have not tried to use a breaker bar yet, but that's my next method of attack. Anyone else have any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 if your going to replace the caliper use soem heat, but i'd get a box end on it or a 6 point i'd never use a open end. OH AND RIGHTY TIGHTY LEFTY LOOSEY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted October 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 Yea.. I guess a box end would be better.. Looks like another trip to the hardware store for me! Ugh.. Why is it the jobs you THINK will be a piece of cake, always wind up being a big pain in the ass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burning Rom Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 Breaker bar...breaker bar! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted October 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2003 The job is finally done.. Went and got a box ended wrench, and that made it easier to get the bolt out. I bled the rear brakes, and had to add some brake fluid as it was a little low. The parking brake needs adjusted now, as it takes 2 full pumps of the pedal to get it to even hold the car. Even then, it's still not tight. Anyone know how to adjust the E brake? Thanks everyone for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 2, 2003 Report Share Posted October 2, 2003 Adjusting the E-brake is no fun either. It's supposed to self-adjust. Yeah right, didn't work like that for me. I had to remove the lever from the back of the caliper. Then use a wrench to turn the park brake stud until it's out as far as it will go. Then align it so the lever will go back on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted October 2, 2003 Report Share Posted October 2, 2003 uhh what??? Do you have pics of what you jsut said, i've done the rear brakes 4 times and i still cant grasp the idea of your reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 2, 2003 Report Share Posted October 2, 2003 The park brake lever is attached to the caliper with a nut. The threaded thingy that the nut and park brake lever attach to is what I call the park brake stud because I don't know what else to call it. It is threaded on maybe the top 3/8" of it or so, the part of it closer to the caliper body is hex shaped and so is the hole in the park brake lever. I don't know how to say it any clearer than that without a picture, and I don't have any pictures of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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