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L67 Black veins on spark plug?


Mach Jace

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Problem solved!

 

So a little rundown:

Recently I went on a 2k mile roadtrip to Idaho:canada:

 

When we got there, I had a cyl 3 misfire:damnit1:

 

Replaced spark plug on cyl 3:f5:

 

Ran good for a bit while we were there:buddy:

 

Misfired again:damnit1:

 

Diagnosed it, cyl 3 misfire went away and fuel injector error came up:damnit1:

 

Replaced fuel injector 3, vowed to replace O rings once I got home:mmhmm:

 

Good for 200 miles home, error came up again, started misfiring pretty bad:damnit1:

 

Took it to get a scan, said it might be the wires or fuel filter:ohdear:

 

Prayed to make it home:3:

 

Made it home:saaaa:

 

Ordered new wires, filter, and O rings:gr_grin:

 

Havent driven it since:coal:

 

Received new parts in mail yesterday:high5:

 

Went to install parts, and found this on cyl 3 spark plug::facepalm:

 

post-4469-143689046142_thumb.jpg

 

Black/brownish burn veins all around the cyl 3 spark plug from where the wire covered it.:damnit1:

 

Is this just because it was a bad wire? :thinking:

 

Or should I not bother putting the new wires on and a new spark plug in because its something entirely different that's wrong? :engfail:

 

I know its not the coil packs cause we tested those and the rest of the spark plugs are all good.:thinking:

Edited by Mach Jace
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looks like the insulator cracked there and then arced through/around the boot....

 

yeah, i'd say that's what was causing your issue!

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Replaced wires and spark plug, still misfiring.

Gas smell in cabin, guy at autozone explained what that meant, but I was oblivious to everything he was saying because I was too concerned about surviving the trip home and not getting stuck in the middle of the desert.

 

Gonna replace O rings and filter later on today as soon as I have the time, hopefully that fixes it

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autozone guys are alright and mean well, but nothing compares to a real scan by an expert. what code's are being thrown? obd II makes it real easy to diagnose issues like this if you have the codes. really no offense to anyone who works at autozone, but before i opened my own shop i thought i might work there but i was over qualified, seems as though they prefer to sell parts rather than fix cars!

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autozone guys are alright and mean well, but nothing compares to a real scan by an expert. what code's are being thrown? obd II makes it real easy to diagnose issues like this if you have the codes. really no offense to anyone who works at autozone, but before i opened my own shop i thought i might work there but i was over qualified, seems as though they prefer to sell parts rather than fix cars!

 

this is the truth.... almost every other major chain is the same way.

 

advanced kept wanting to sell me a crank sensor because the starter solenoid took a shit.

 

"yeah, see if the that there crank sensor doesn't see the motor spinin' it won't angage the starer right, HERPDERP!"

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the customer will almost every time buy the sensor or part that there scanner pops up. well the more experienced person knows more often it is just a clue to what the real issue is instead of the actual problem. just like freakin doctors, always treating the symptom and never curing the ale. well that is one way of getting return customers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Nice to see we're all staying on topic, and everyone agrees that anywhere they sell things is going to be biased.

Got a full diagnostic, and the P303 code that was coming up at the autozone scans didnt show, only a new fuel injector code, then it went away. 200 miles -p303.

So its really only giving me p303, aka, misfire on 3.

Apparently cyl 3 had misfired 333k times, aint that a bitch?

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I had some guy even tell me it was a bad cylinder for sure, and he could sell me a new one and "knew a guy that could fix it for only 900 bucks".

I told him to shove it.

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anyway you can post a pic of cyl 3 plug as it looks now! the residue left behind on the plug can hold good info to what is going on. who tested the coil packs and are you sure they are good? just wandering, you said you repalced plug #3 what about the others and other than aftermarket nothing like the ac delco platinum plugs for really good results. and as far as a bad cylinder?, do a compression check it is the only way to tell for sure.

Edited by jtwmechanic
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anyway you can post a pic of cyl 3 plug as it looks now! the residue left behind on the plug can hold good info to what is going on. who tested the coil packs and are you sure they are good? just wandering, you said you repalced plug #3 what about the others and other than aftermarket nothing like the ac delco platinum plugs for really good results. and as far as a bad cylinder?, do a compression check it is the only way to tell for sure.

 

No, he said he replaced *injector* number 3, and all of the plugs. I was working with him when he was in Idaho to try to figure it out. I had him swap coils to see if the misfire switched to a different cylinder, and it didn't. I then had him swap the #3 injector with the #1 injector, and the misfire went from cylinder #3 to cylinder #1, so he bought a new injector and that fixed the problem for a while.

 

However, when I asked him about the old injector, he said the psoitive lead was all corroded with green shit. Typical.

 

I'd say he needs to sand down the leads on the injector plugs to make sure they're all making good contact and do another injector swap with another cylinder to see if the problem changes, perhaps try the same with the coils again just in case to be 100% sure.

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would have helped to have all that info, he never said the miss went to #1. knowing that changes everything! Xtreme is probally correct, corrosion kills.

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would have helped to have all that info, he never said the miss went to #1. knowing that changes everything! Xtreme is probally correct, corrosion kills.

 

Yeah, Jason left that little tidbit out. Not sure why, since its a pretty important part of his little ordeal.

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The fuel injector on 3 is fine, no corrosion or anything and its still having a mis.

After swapping the old 3 to 1, I just replaced 1 with the new injector, and 3 is using the old 1 injector.

Yet now its still misfiring on 3, so Im willing to bet its not the injector, turns out, its probably something a lot smaller-like so:

post-4469-143689046528_thumb.jpg

 

You guys think getting a new fuel pressure regulator vacuum sce tube connector would fix it? Some idiot put electrical tape on another part of that tube.

Anyone know what this part looks like? There's no picture -.-

http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_12570619_ACD_ACDelco%20Fuel%20Pressure%20Regulator%20Vacuum%20SCE%20Tube%20Connector~1999%20PONTIAC%20GR

Edited by Mach Jace
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Apparently a little further on, the T connector that goes into the supercharger was completely wrapped up in melted electrical tape.

Tape came off, and lo and behold, the connector was so brittle it fell apart into little tiny pieces. American parts ftw!

But seriously, what kind of dumbass puts electrical tape over a fuel vacuum line that costs a measly 20 dollars to fix? Whoever said duct tape fixes engine misfires was sorely mistaken.

:facepalm:

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Still have to order the hoses and T attachments, theoretically speaking that should do it. It's very likely that mis was caused by lack of pressure in the fuel lines because of the vacuum hoses, guess I'll just have to wait and see.

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Still have to order the hoses and T attachments, theoretically speaking that should do it. It's very likely that mis was caused by lack of pressure in the fuel lines because of the vacuum hoses, guess I'll just have to wait and see.

 

You don't order those. They have a spool of them at the auto store!

 

It is very likely indeed. If you have no vacuum at your fuel pressure regulators, then your fuel pressure will be too low, and your car will run like ass.

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It is very likely indeed. If you have no vacuum at your fuel pressure regulators, then your fuel pressure will be too low, and your car will run like ass.

 

you have that backwards.... no vacuum at the FPR will make too much pressure...

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They're not normal vacuum tubes bro, they come in a package with the rubber connector that I showed you and notches in the tubes to keep the pressure from escaping through the T's, the T's have to be special ordered as well apparently. And its mostly the T that Im concerned about and that split end piece because that's whats actually broken, the tube itself is fine.

 

And low or high pressure, it still runs like ass :D

Edited by Mach Jace
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They're not normal vacuum tubes bro, they come in a package with the rubber connector that I showed you and notches in the tubes to keep the pressure from escaping through the T's, the T's have to be special ordered as well apparently. And its mostly the T that Im concerned about and that split end piece because that's whats actually broken, the tube itself is fine.

 

And low or high pressure, it still runs like ass :D

 

Did you got to the store yet and look through what they have? Keep in mind a vacuum hose is a vacuum hose no matter how big or small, and you can easily find a retrofit for the parts you're looking for, even if you have to use some adapters. This isn't a Jaguar or a BMW, its a GM w-body. All you need is vacuum pressure to be sealed. It doesn't have to be a 100% exact OEM replacement part.

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Did you got to the store yet and look through what they have? Keep in mind a vacuum hose is a vacuum hose no matter how big or small, and you can easily find a retrofit for the parts you're looking for, even if you have to use some adapters. This isn't a Jaguar or a BMW, its a GM w-body. All you need is vacuum pressure to be sealed. It doesn't have to be a 100% exact OEM replacement part.

 

 

True story. I got a box of various sizes of T fittings and some vacuum line from autozone and was running again with no issues. The fittings are barbed so it seals nicely too.

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True story. I got a box of various sizes of T fittings and some vacuum line from autozone and was running again with no issues. The fittings are barbed so it seals nicely too.

 

This coming from another L67 owner. Jason, just make another trip to autozone.

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True story. I got a box of various sizes of T fittings and some vacuum line from autozone and was running again with no issues. The fittings are barbed so it seals nicely too.

 

How much did the box of fittings cost you? And were you able to fit the T's over the pressure regulator and the supercharger attachment as well?

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