For those who have changed Pads and rotors

[dodgethis]

I had swapped out my pads and rotors a while back and everything went well. What i noticed was a rattling noise coming from the passenger side after i had replaced everything (brake wise). What I found out is the two legs that extend from the back of the brake pad some how either bent or broke off and caused the pad to rattle inside the caliper. I wanted to ask you all how or what caused this, and what could I do next time to keep that from happening next time. I had used a large C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper slowly so to put the new pad in, just like the driver side, but some how it happend on the passenger side.

 

 

Any thoughts?

[mra32]

are you talking about the wear indicator? Its been a while...i cant visualize what you are talking about

 

[dodgethis]

Thanks for the reply mra32, its actually the pins (two legs) on the back of the pad that actually go into the piston of the caliper. Its how it is held into place when you push on the brakes and the piston kinda swallows the pins and thereby presses on the pad to the rotor.

[dodgethis]

See on the pad on the right, the legs that stick out like tweezers. This is what im talking about.

 

[mra32]

hmm i probably had that on mine, but i dont remember seeing it. I think i remember the one on the left sliding onto the carrier or caliper. I think I have a full set of raybestos pads (front and rear, if you got the calipers) i'd let go cheap if youre interested.

 

Brakes are subjected to a whole slew of crap...more than alot of people realize. I would think you just got a crappy pad.

 

Sorry I couldnt help more

[xtremerevolution]

I had swapped out my pads and rotors a while back and everything went well. What i noticed was a rattling noise coming from the passenger side after i had replaced everything (brake wise). What I found out is the two legs that extend from the back of the brake pad some how either bent or broke off and caused the pad to rattle inside the caliper. I wanted to ask you all how or what caused this, and what could I do next time to keep that from happening next time. I had used a large C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper slowly so to put the new pad in, just like the driver side, but some how it happend on the passenger side.

 

 

Any thoughts?

 

I understand exactly what you're talking about.

 

What pads did you buy?

 

I would return it as a defective pad. I've never had it happen to me, and I go through a lot of pads.

[WhatTheFehl]

I understand exactly what you're talking about.

 

What pads did you buy?

 

I would return it as a defective pad.

 

How long ago did you buy these pads? How many miles are on them? If they are more than a month old I don't see a parts store refunding them as "defective", especially if they aren't a high-end pad. You might have to go to the manufacturer to get a warranty out of them, as the parts store will simply tell you that they don't know what kind of driving you've been doing and might have destroyed them yourself.

[GnatGoSplat]

I've never had one of those break off. It sounds like a defective pad. Do they still warranty brake pads? Maybe you can get it replaced. In the old days, I could warranty my brake pads simply from regular wear, but last time I tried it, they said they quit doing that and only warranty for manufacturer defects. Pads for these cars don't cost much though, so if you have to pay for a replacement, it's no biggie.

[dodgethis]

The pads were Wagners. I got Wagner pads, and rotors, and also some drums. I havent had any issues with it other than it clangs when i go over bumps. I mean it goes away when you slightly hit the breaks (no duh), but as far as the breaking performance its fine. I didn't know if it was due to i didnt push the piston down far enough to sit a new pad on or what.

[cubsfan24]

I had one of those clips break off on my {built not to last} Duralast pads. It happened when I had to slam on my brakes on the highway cause someone didn't know how to drive... Made my brakes squeak really bad. Tried to take them back to autozone and there system conveniently had no record of the purchase.... Oh well they lost a customer over a set of $20 pads. In the end it wasn't about the pads it was the way the Lady was being a total beotch about the situation.

[1990lumina]

I've never seen one of those break before, but I guess it is possible. Oh well at least you know when it's rattling that your caliper is releasing fully haha

[dodgethis]

No joke 1990 lumina,

 

I don't want to start a war on who is the better product, BUT what would be a good set of rotor and pads? Xtreme I remember you used to mention R1 concepts were good, anyone else have anythought or opinion on the subject?

 

Hey cubs good to hear from ya!

[WhatTheFehl]

Raybestos Advanced Tech or Monroe in my opinion.

[cubsfan24]

Raybestos Advanced Tech or Monroe in my opinion.

I bought a set of Monroes and have been really happy with them. When I still had my hubcaps on I noticed they produced less brake dust than the Duralast pads the took a dump on me. Also Amazon has them for $35 - $15 MIR right now which gets them down to the price of cheapy autoblown pads.

 

Linkeo

[xtremerevolution]

No joke 1990 lumina,

 

I don't want to start a war on who is the better product, BUT what would be a good set of rotor and pads? Xtreme I remember you used to mention R1 concepts were good, anyone else have anythought or opinion on the subject?

 

Hey cubs good to hear from ya!

 

There have been a few members on here and on bonnevilleforum.com who have taken my advice and bought R1 rotors. One was Jake, with the blue/white 94 Cutlass Vert. He said there was a HUGE difference in the braking power using the R1 rotors and the pads I recommended. Coincidentally, the crossdrilled/slotted/zinc coated R1 rotors are barely more expensive than non-chinese OE replacements. Amusing, isn't it?

 

I've installed 10 pairs of these so far, and everyone has been more than impressed with them. I use them front and rear on the Bonneville, and I have the blanks on the rear of the Regal.

 

As far as pads go, Duralast is crap. Simply crap. Don't touch that shit, please. I tried their most expensive Duralast Gold ceramic pad on my Regal, and within 2 days, I managed to practically melt the pads and returned them. Extremely soft feel to them, no bite whatsoever, and I bled the brakes properly several times. They were very quiet though. This is compared to the better pads I've used.

 

I have tried the following pads:

Wagner Ceramics - decent value, but nothing special

Ceramix Ceramics - NAPA brand, very expensive, very low life, not at all impressed

Duralast Gold Ceramics - worst pad I have ever used in my life

Raybestos Ceramics - good overall pad, but nothing special

Friction Master Ceramics - very good overall ceramic pad for conservative drivers, and great value

 

However, these all paled like white printer paper compared to the two best I've ever tried:

Bendix CT3 Ceramics

Akebono Pro-Act Ultra Premium Ceramics

 

 

The Bendix pads are great, but they will smoke up on very hard stops from 60-0. They also get brittle as they wear close to the wear line, but have a good wear life. That might be from my driving habits though, since I have had smoke coming out of my brakes before. The Akebono pads are by far the best I've ever used and installed on any car. I have a spare set for the Bonneville just waiting to be installed. These bite like Godzilla and don't let up no matter how hard, how long, and how many times you brake. Excellent pedal feel and very good responsiveness.

 

Now, before anyone comes up here and starts bashing my review of the pads I recommended against, I'd like to point out that anyone can make a recommendation *for* the pads I've advised against if they've never used the pads I recommended. Its very easy to say you had a great experience with this pad or that pad, but just because that pad was great, doesn't mean the two pads I recommended weren't better. Its like hifi sound systems. A sound system is only the best you've ever heard if you haven't heard anything better. The moment you hear something better, your tune changes. That goes for me as well, since I know there are several enthusiasts out here who swear by Hawk and EBC pads (the latter of which I personally think is overhyped and overpriced.) However, I can't recommend against them purely on speculation and opinion.

 

If I were you, I'd get R1 Drilled/Slotted rotors for the fronts, blank rotors for the rear, Akebono Ceramics for the front, and a Wagner, Raybestos, or Friction Master pad for the rear. I have tested these rotors with Friction Mater pads to the point of complete brake fade on a downhill mountain road and was forced to downshift to slow down and they did not ever crack or warp.

 

The reason for skimping out on the rear is because with a nearly 70-30 weight distribution on 1st gen w-body coupes, your rear brakes will be doing very little braking compared to the front, and as such, you will not notice a difference.

 

Pick up the pads from rockauto (don't forget the 5% coupon code), and the rotors off of R1's website.

 

If you're wondering if you really need such great brakes, then stop wondering. You need them. Even if you only saved 2 feet in stopping distance, that 2 feet is the difference between a near hit and a totalled front end and increase in insurance rates.

Edited June 7, 2010 by xtremerevolution

[dodgethis]

Xtreme thank you for your thoughts, it helped Alot. The thing about

slotted and drilled rotors is you can't turn them right? So even though they cost alot compared to your typical non- slotted or drilled rotor, that drilled one better last a he'll of alot longer for the money IMO. I do agree about gaining the abililty to braking an extra 2 feet before something. I'll have to do some research on the pads, don't want to get the kind that has the legs that fit into the piston, I've seen some pads some have a clip that wrap around both pads together. I would love to get something like to alleviate the possibel issue reoccuring again:dance:

[xtremerevolution]

Xtreme thank you for your thoughts, it helped Alot. The thing about

slotted and drilled rotors is you can't turn them right? So even though they cost alot compared to your typical non- slotted or drilled rotor, that drilled one better last a he'll of alot longer for the money IMO. I do agree about gaining the abililty to braking an extra 2 feet before something. I'll have to do some research on the pads, don't want to get the kind that has the legs that fit into the piston, I've seen some pads some have a clip that wrap around both pads together. I would love to get something like to alleviate the possibel issue reoccuring again:dance:

 

Lets just say you won't need to turn them for a long time because they last a long time.

 

Trust me, these pads are excellent. IIRC, all of the pads I've ever used have those legs on the fronts, just not on the rears. That's just the way they're designed. You probably just got a defective pad.

 

You would shit bricks if I gave you a ride in the Regal. I push brakes to their limits, and I've never had that happen to me.

[jake91]

r1 concepts rotors and bendix ceramic pad ive had them for 8k miles and the car stops on a dime me and my mom both swear it stops as well as here gagt here is a vid of them on a 45mph stop

[video=youtube;-ZeOFyP5pTo]

[alec_b]

I can attest to the duralast brakes being CRAP on w-body's. The twin-piston front calipers have a LOT of bite, and the duralast pads will literally fade out at the first hint of a hard brake. There's been some days when it's really hot outside where I can actually SMELL the brakes, and that's after a plain old off-ramp slow down, not even trying. Luckily I just slapped mine on there for now, and because my rotors are original and are getting more warped by the day I'm just saving up pennies until I can afford all new stuff.

 

Brakes are something that should never be skimped on. Oh, and you can turn drilled/slotted rotors just fine. I turned all 4 on my old STS and they turned out great, as long as you actually know how to set up and use a brake lathe.

[xtremerevolution]

I can attest to the duralast brakes being CRAP on w-body's. The twin-piston front calipers have a LOT of bite, and the duralast pads will literally fade out at the first hint of a hard brake. There's been some days when it's really hot outside where I can actually SMELL the brakes, and that's after a plain old off-ramp slow down, not even trying. Luckily I just slapped mine on there for now, and because my rotors are original and are getting more warped by the day I'm just saving up pennies until I can afford all new stuff.

 

Brakes are something that should never be skimped on. Oh, and you can turn drilled/slotted rotors just fine. I turned all 4 on my old STS and they turned out great, as long as you actually know how to set up and use a brake lathe.

 

I thought the concept was that you didn't have to get quality rotors turned. My Regal's front PowerStop Rotors were expensive as hell; $190 for the pair shipped, but I've been riding those brakes like crazy since 140k miles (that's 77k miles of hard riding) and not a single hint of warping.