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i wanted to upgrade, again


kuntzie

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3" downpipe and new turbonetics turbo , im also doing cam, im looking for 600 whp if the trans holds.

 

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Edited by kuntzie
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the ls4s are not a strong motor stock, the bottom ends can only take about 7psi without issues, and thats with alky. although 500 whp is easily accomplishable on that 7psi

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the turbo is a turbonetics t66 with a .96 ar hotside, the front wheel is from a gtk series for serious flow, this is a smaller frame turbo then my old one but will flow almost 50% more air.

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the ls4s are not a strong motor stock, the bottom ends can only take about 7psi without issues, and thats with alky. although 500 whp is easily accomplishable on that 7psi

I knew 6-7psi would put them around 500whp but I didn't realize that was basically all that they could take...

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I knew 6-7psi would put them around 500whp but I didn't realize that was basically all that they could take...

 

Yeah, I'd have not thought the bottom end was that weak either.

 

Any aftermarket to make it stronger maybe?

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Yeah, I'd have not thought the bottom end was that weak either.

 

Any aftermarket to make it stronger maybe?

 

gen3 SBC? you better believe it, though being as new(and somewhat uncommon) as it is, probably not as much as there should be...

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hmm.. well im slammed for one, so my axle geometery is off.. they are 3/4" longer so not a issues when at ride height and when im low its not going to pop the axle..

 

and have i broken one yet, even with my power... no.

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i understand the geometry, i was just curious. read a thread on motorswap saying lowered wbody's needing shortened axles.

 

As we knowyou need custom axels to do the swap. However, one problem me and my team ran into while lowering the front end was that after we lowered, we actualy ran .2 slower in the quarter mile. Then we realized after talking to a few people that the LENGTHS of the axels are different. Therefore when you lower your car, the longer axels push in on the transmission causing extra strain. This is what caused us to run slower. After we replaced the axels, the car was not only back to its normal speed, we ran .1 faster. My axel builder will not tell me how much shorter. He will build them for me though. *EDIT* COST CHANGES. They used to cost 250, the last set i had quoted was 275. If they went up, I wouldn't be surprised. SO PLEASE If you would like a set please email me at Chris.Zilvitis@L67swap.com

Thank You,

Chris Zilvitis

_________________

~Owner

Brew City Automotive Industries Inc.

 

does this info apply to all lowered w-body or just swapped L67 ones, just wandering?

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well considering my axles use 2 drivers side inners from a 97 se or gt and 2 passenger side shafts and outter cups from the 97 se or gt, i know he wont make stronger ones..

 

and you could have saved ur money and used shortened dogbones, seting the geometey perfect when at ur lowered height, they are only 20 vuck and also get rid of vibrations.

 

i dont need any axles.

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i wasn't trying to imply that you needed axles. i havn,t bought any axles and would never pay anyone to do something i am capable of doing myself either. i am just making sure i have all the info i need before i bag and lower my cutty with L67 swap. i like to spend my actual labor time wisely! do you think my axles will need to be lenghtened also?

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i did another fp upgrade aswell, racetronix pump w/ venuri (that little black hose) which i put into a 98 fp assembly

 

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also here is my trans oil, prefectly clean, no metal shavings... im happy about that, no issues as of yet

 

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