RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 you've got a tech1, right? and new tensioner = run normal, new belt = run horrible? well, WTF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 you've got a tech1, right? Tech1... duh... I think I need more coffee... and new tensioner = run normal, new belt = run horrible? well, WTF? WTF is what I was thinking. It's even routed right and the tension is better than the old belt. Old Tensioner + old belt = super bouncy tensioner but ran fine. New Tensioner + old belt = way less bouncy tensioner and ran slightly better. New Tensioner + New Belt = Idles low, lugs, less power, stalled twice at stoplights, but no SES light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 OK... now she won't start. I turn the key and she tries to crank but then just stops. WTF. First attempt: Ruh-Ruh-Ruh-Nothing Second attempt right away: Ruh-Nothing Waited a couple minutes... Third attempt: Ruh-Ruh-Ruh-Ruh-Nothing. I have not tried jumper cables yet... I will do that right after work. This cannot be good... any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 death by serpentine belt? for uber shits and giggles: throw the old stuff back on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 (edited) I'm at work... tools are at home. GF can probably bring them to me at 5:00 or so, don't have enough of my lunch hour left to try anything right now. I am not thrilled. First thing I try though is gonna be to throw the old belt back on. Edited October 8, 2010 by Penglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Thought occurs to me... since it won't just crank forever, just a few times and then *nothing* like it's being told to just give up... what are the odds that my Crank Position Sensor took this (horribly coincidental) opportunity to totally fail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 not likely. the starter is in no way impacted by the presence of a functioning or non-functioning crank sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 So if it was the CPS it would start then die instead of cranking a couple of times then doing nothing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 correct. of/when you hook the tech1 up, you should see RPM while cranking, near ~200 RPM at least. if you see that, the CPS SHOULD be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Sounds to me like a dead battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 it kinda does... or the battery cables aren't making enough contact to the starter(and the rest of the electrical system) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 correct. of/when you hook the tech1 up, you should see RPM while cranking, near ~200 RPM at least. if you see that, the CPS SHOULD be fine. Cool. I will check for that after 5pm when my GF gets here. Sounds to me like a dead battery. Ya think? The battery still has some charge... I won't know exactly how much voltage until later today... but u think it has enough to start cranking but not enough to turn the engine over? Maybe my alternator *IS* dead... I should have checked its output voltage yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 I've had enough juice in a battery to crank over a few times, only to have it stop. Hook some cables up to it and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 That's the plan! I guess my past experiences with dead batteries have been with really-really-dead batteries. I'm not used to a dead battery that still tries to think about doing stuff. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Interesting... after work I tried to crank it again, and I actually got it to turn over! The voltage seemed fine, 12 volts with just the key on... 14.1 volts with the car idling high at ~2000 RPM. So... maybe its not the battery or the alternator? I'm very confused. Started but ran like crap in the morning... stalled at a traffic light, started right up and continued to run like crap until I arrived at work, then it died the moment I got into the parking space and would not start. Would not start at lunch (around Noon). After work it turned over but it cranked for a while first and almost flooded, but it did start and idled smooth (at 2000 rpm) for the short time I let it run before hitching a ride home with the GF. I'm sure the idle would have dropped to normal if I waited a little bit as I did pull the ICM fuse (for shits and giggles) for a minute after scanning for codes and finding none... so the high idle is probably because partly because it *now* needs a relearn. I don't know, however, if the 14.1 charging volts would be sustained at a lower, more correct, sustained idle speed. Could it be the ICM? I've heard of those being flaky. Could that cause the symptoms I experienced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 considering the application, it is possible the ICM is flaking out... i'd go through an idle learn first and keep an eye on everything though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 For sure... Since I'm home and my car is not I will be revisiting this issue tomorrow. I think I will be picking up a tested good junkyard Alternator and ICM tomorrow morning... then going over to work to see what I can see. I'm still trying to figure out how changing the tensioner and the belt would have brought this about, but it's probably a coincidence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I guess I've sort of made some progress... I determined the charging system is fine (so I may have wasted 25 bucks on an J/Y Alternator... but that's ok). Also I limped her home... there is no doubt about it, I've got some big time misfiring going on. Now to figure out how to change out that freaking coil pack (where the hell are the bolts for that sucker)... I want to find whoever decided to put it where it is and kick them in the nuts. As much as I like OBD-1... it sure would be nice if it had the misfire codes that OBD-2 has! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 The bolts are in between where the plug wires are connected and also on the opposite side also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I think I'm screwed at the moment... FFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU I can get at the 2 side bolts, and I know where the bottom bolt is... but literally cannot reach it no matter what I do. It is definitely a misfire situation, and I certainly cannot drive around like that because it creates an insane pure fuel smell out the exhaust. I suppose I can rent a timing light to see if I am barking up the right tree or not with the coil pack... but that still won't get my car running properly in time. So basically I don't know what to do next. First step is apparently to figure out how I'm getting to work and back next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Hmmm... starts hard, runs like crap, smells like raw fuel, likes to die... sitting here putting all this together I'm suddenly thinking Fuel Injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 it's possible.... and a good excuse for some bigger ones, amirite? i would confirm you're getting spark to all of the front 3 cylinders at least though, since it's dead simple to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Yeah your right Although what I'm gonna do is pull the injectors from the blue sedan, since I know it runs good but is not registered or insured, and try them in the TGP. If it helps then I have an awesome excuse for bigger injectors. At this point I need to find a new way to work for at least a couple of days no matter what I do, since I won't have any time to pull any injectors until Monday evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 you could just ohm test the injectors. n/a cars are a different size so it would run f-ed up even if they were good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 if it smells like fuel i'd look at ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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