Penglii Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I am now 99% sure that the smoke is because my turbo is blown... The other 1% is that I would just need an oil restrictor... but I do not know what size I would need to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2010 Got the GT2860RS Disco Potato ordered... it should ship on Monday and be here on like Tuesday or Wednesday In the meantime.... death to all the Mosquitos!!! Poor T-25 is smoking like a damn chimney now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 Finally... after almost an entire month of delays... the turbo swap will be occuring on Saturday! YAY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 only a month? damn. you are lucky. I am coming up on a couple years soon with all the delays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 only a month? damn. you are lucky. I am coming up on a couple years soon with all the delays. LOL! When you put it that way a mere months worth of delays does not sound so bad. Everything is now in the car... she starts and idles great. No smoke Coolant system is almost fully bled. Taking my time though because I am waiting for a better (by which I mean longer) turbo-output to intercooler-pipe silicone connector. The one that is on there now is fine for idling in the driveway, but I fear is not able to be clamped tight enough and will blow off right away when she sees a little boost. That ought to be sorted out this evening though, then it will be Rock N' Roll time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twenty Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Success!! Best short drive to the gas station and back... ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 sounds fun... gonna grab an estimated 0-60 time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Estimated 0-60 time will come tomorrow. Pics and stuff will come this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Nice! Glad you got it all figured out. How hard was the swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) Just got the 1G DSM BOV installed... WOOT! The noise it makes is kinda freaky. I like it. Going on a 100 or so mile drive tomorrow, so that should be a blast now that I don't have to worry about blowing my vac lines off or whatever. Getting the BOV installed was easy because I was able to buy a lower IC pipe with a flange already welded in place... that was a lucky break because for some reason I don't seem to have much access to anyone who can weld. (I really need to learn to weld). I tee'd off the line running from the TB to the Trans Modulator to power the BOV... I figure that will work and so far I'm not proven wrong. BOV functions and the trans still shifts good, if not better somehow. If anyone thinks it was a bad choice of spot to Tee please let me know. Eventually I want to tap into the threaded fitting on the back of the intake that is plugged off due to the PMIII... but that is a project for another time. Addicted2bass: Sorry for not answering your question a month ago... I got caught up in life. The turbo swap was super easy in some ways and really hard in others. I was able to follow some instructions from TGPforums that helped infinitely in getting the coolant and oil fittings sorted out... if I had to figure that out from scratch it would have been a bit more challenging. There are too many different pipefitting standards. WTF. I somehow messed up the threads a little bit on the oil flow restrictor on the turbo... so I need to replace that... but since it is currently working and nothing expensive is damaged I have not had much incentive to fix it. It's high on the TODO list though... right up there with replacing the busted oil pressure sender. Getting the clocking of the turbo figured out proved to be a significant challenge... because I did not want to mess around with fabricating some sort of mount for the wastegate I had to compromise and make the IC outlet point somewhat too far downwards. This sucks because the IC plumbing does not match up correctly and so it takes an excessive ammount of muscle, fiddling and patience to get the silicone connector to connect. I feel I could fix this by figuring out what sort of curvy shape I'd need to make a connector into... but I cannot quite picture the solution. The important thing though is that it works, and it's not like I have to disconnect that very often. I had to file the downpipe holes larger to make the flanges match... this was easy but time consuming and frustrating. I had to relocate the wastegate vac port as well as the o2 sensor. The vac port was moved to the ever irritating Turbo to IC pipe connector by way of a quick-tap thing. This seems to work good. For the o2 I had a hole drilled and tapped into the downpipe. I would have loved to weld a bung on there, and I will eventually... but at the time a tapped hole was all I could manage to get hooked up with. The cruise control thing is in the way, but not by much... I can still get the sensor in and out without removing the CC. I also changed the Thermostat to a 160 degree one, so she runs very cool now. The tune was provided by the great Robert Saar, and is not just one... but two custom tunes on one chip. I am currently running the backup/stock injector tune which is set for 10PSI peak boost. When I finally get the cash to upgrade to 26# injectors I will be able to switch tunes and run higher boost (peaks at 14.4PSI I believe), but I have not gotten to run that tune yet. I think it will be a lot of fun. I still need to relocate the coolant overflow container... but the Disco Potato did in fact fit with the coolant bottle in the stock location. If I take the K&N knock-off air filter off I can even open the cap and view the level or pour in more coolant. Ghetto as hell though. The bottle, being 21 years old, is pretty opaque, so it's always been a trick to see the coolant level. Another afterthought is that I should have consitered the A/C Canister, I did not think about it before... but I just noticed that until I figure out what can be done about that I cannot rotate the motor forward at all. The front housing of the turbo is right up against the bracket for the A/C can. I might be able to remove some material from the bracket, but that would gain me like a half an inch of motion. AKA not enough. If anyone has any advice on that I would be happy to hear it, I don't want to have to remove the turbo just to replace the rear plugs! I also don't have a proper boost gauge yet. The cluster "turbo" gauge seems accurate... in that it reads a bunch of vac at idle... it reads boost when its boosting, and it reads dead zero after all the vac lines have all blown off. I will try to take some engine bay pics in the next few days. Sorry for the novel... but I felt like I should provide a roughly comprehensive update. Edited October 1, 2010 by Penglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 You don't have to remove the turbo to do rear plugs... everything in the engine bay rocks forward when you unbolt the dogbones and pull the motor forward. Another way of getting more access to the rear plugs is by removal of the alternator. Both are cake on a 3.1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Are you sure *everything* rocks forward? The reason I thought about that while i had my hands down there this evening... is that I remembered that the last time I rocked the engine forward, it only went so far before hitting the AC canister. I don't remember that moving. I remember wishing it would be slightly less in the way of the engine's rotating. But with the smaller turbo it still rocked far enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) It should... I've rocked mine forward many times. The only thing you should have to look out for is that you need to make sure you stop before anything hits the radiator. If you're having issues with the turbo clearing the bracket for the AC accumulator, you can always remove the alternator to access the rear plugs. That is very easy to do as well. Edited October 1, 2010 by Addicted To Boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Interesting. I suppose I'll have to try it and see what happens. I'm kindof expecting to unbolt the dogbones and have everything just sit stationary up against that bracket... but maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 you haven't even run the full boost tune yet? man, are you in for a surprise... the backup peaks at 10PSI, while the full boost goes to 14.1.... roughly a ~40HP peak difference, with plenty of under-the-curve gain as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I know man I'm almost ashamed to admit it, I totally cannot wait! Unfortunately I hafta wait... but it's gonna be so worth it. Hopefully the GF will have steady job soon so that I can start accumulating monies again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 OK... so the other morning I woke up and there was frost everywhere. Also there was an unpleasant noise coming from the serpentine belt area. Tonight I replaced the Idle Tensioner with a good used one... and replaced the serpentine belt with a brand new one. The bearings on the pully of the old tensioner were certainly noisy, and the old belt had more slack in it than I am comfortable with. So, the noise is quieter now (the idle pully component of it is totally gone) and the tensioner does not bounce around like a pogo stick anymore. This pleases me. With the belt off I rotated the pullys by hand, and the alternator makes more noise than I care for (squeeked a bunch and grinded a little) so that is next in line for replacement. There is a $25 "recently rebuilt" junkyard alternator with my name on it that I'll be getting on Saturday.... that has got to be better than an alt of completely unknown age. I'm still paranoid about the water pump... but I don't think it made any noise when I spun it, so I'm feeling better about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Hell, I'd go ahead and do the water pump if you can, they're like $20 and take 20 minutes to change at the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Well I have no direct reason to suspect the water pump... just paranoid because of past trauma regarding a failed water pump and being stranded in the far reaches of the service roads of O'hare airport. I think I'm gonna just do the alternator this weekend and see if that solves the rest of the noise. Then I'll do the water pump next, in a couple weeks or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Grrrr.... replacing tensioner and belt should have made things better, not worse! On my way to work this morning she ran like crap... the idle was super smooth, but too low and seemed to be running way too rich. Things just did not seem right. I suppose I should have re-learned the idle right away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 a tensioner shouldn't require a relearn.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 That's what I thought... I wonder what the issue is then. The only thing that changed is new tensioner and new belt. I'll take a closer look during my lunch break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 hmm..... when you have a chance, see if the ECM is picking up knock counts from the new tensioner.... it's rare, but i've seen it happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 How should I check that? However and for what it's worth... I installed the new tensioner, and then decided I would get a new belt too. So I drove it to the store, and it ran normally. Got home and put the new belt on and ate some dinner. Fast forward to this morning it ran like crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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